mhux

Also got first tracks on the (butter smooth) groomers, albeit Friday morning...funny looks abound from people in the parking lot! Anyone have beta on how the NF gullies are holding out? I'd imagine a wallow-fest, if not wind-loaded and dangerous! Seems windward (NW-S) aspects are the best bet for the time being...

I-rock was pretty windy, maybe 10-15 constant with 20 gusts? At timberline it was 14 degrees at 12:30am, probably sub 10 (especially with windchill) up higher...almost better to keep moving than take breaks! Also a note on avy, the left side of the bowl above crater rock had a good sized crown going on, I forgot to take a picture or I'd share the photo beta- almost from the left side of the bowl to the right, and potentially a higher up crown too (that triggered the main slide?) Go up and see for yourself, I guess...

south side stuff is wind blown/sastrugi mixed with icy (breakable) rain crust, the higher up you go the better it gets. Skinning/skiing down was a bitch with the icy rain crust, but its great if you can find continuous sastrugi fingers either going up or down. Only made it to illumination saddle but I figure the windward sides just get better higher up...definitely not pow!

Nah got a friend who's also looking for some thursday night alpinism...soloing in anything but low avy terrain sketches me out! good luck with that clutch

Yeah considering the 'moderate' avy rating that gear is a must, as is staying on windward slopes. I'm headed up tonight so I'll let you guys know how it is. On the south side I'd say above crater rock, as far as the other aspects of hood, wherever its steep enough to slide...all those (steep) headwalls and gullies would be death traps in the right (wrong) conditions. But I'm no expert, either

Anyone know from experience or speculation how hood is right now? I figure the snow from last week/weekend should be (semi)consolidated by now, at least the windward stuff should be sorta scraped clean, right? Thinking about a climb up there but don't want to wallow if its not consolidated yet... thanks

Awesome, that's super helpful! That was the thread I was talking about actually, guess I should have just googled it... anyway I'll look for the scratch marks in addition to what you guys posted, thanks!

I remember seeing something about drytooling at rocky butte a while back (in fact I think there was even a mixed climbing party there?), and I'd love to get out and practice there. Any suggestions on ethics/routes/ratings from those who know?

Bump, price reduced to $125...get some warm doubles and invest in your toes!

Are those wind slab crowns or crevasses?? Yikes

Awesome, good to know. Stoked not to leave a ton of slings, in that case!

I was refreshing my knowledge of v-threads and I remembered reading somewhere (Colin Haley's blog I think) that mentioned making v-threads without using slings, that way you never leave any trash on the climb. (Using other people's v threads...sketch) Any experience with this? Sounds great to me but I have concerns of the rope potentially freezing enough not to pull through, which would be a pain in the ass. Maybe the colder the ice the better?

I know this is a pnw forum and all... but I'm back in salt lake for winter break, our snow (what snow?) is shit and the ice is great! if you're around the area let me know, I'd love to get out and climb. send me a pm and we'll arrange something, I'm doing nothing so I'm free when you are. Max

Looking to sell my Scarpa Omegas, got them last May and I've used them under 10 times since then. They're in perfect condition, except for aesthetic issues- minor scratches on them and peeled rands on the toes (snowshoes took them off). The peeled rands aren't really an issue as pro and newmatic crampons still fit perfectly, and they've stopped peeling. I love these boots and highly recommend them, they're super warm and very nimble and light(!) for a plastic, but they're a bit big for my feet. The sizing is 11.5 for the inners and 12 for the outers and the inners have never been molded. I'd like to get $125 + shipping for these, or your best offer. Pictures are on my flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/72705010@N04

Selling a green, size XL DAS parka, in great condition. You already know it's the 'standard' winter belay jacket, and it certainly is toasty and bombproof. I've worn it a handful of times, and the only issues are a yellow paint stain on the back, and a rip in the collar near the top of the right zipper (which I'd be happy to fix on request). Other than that, it's in brand new condition. I'm asking $225 + shipping or best offer, retail is $300 and I can't find it cheaper than $240 online right now. Let me know if you want more pictures, or if you want the tear stitched up. [Also willing to trade for the same size Arcteryx Atom SV) (edit- don't know why pictures aren't working, here's a link to flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/72705010@N04) (a little wrinkly right out of the stuff sack) (collar tear)

So basically in situations where you're not going to fall, but its nice to have a rope anyway- aka moderate alpine? Seems that the stretch montypiton mentioned would put it out of use for toproping and/or easy cragging (no big falls)...makes sense just to buy a skinny single in that case. Interesting, thanks for all the responses

I think you mean a half or a twin rope? No way there's an 8.1 as a single. You're using both of these half ropes as singles then?

I was wondering how feasible it would be to climb using a fatter half rope (~9mm x 60m/70m) as a single; I know Millet makes a single 9mm and there's a few 9.2mm single cords out there, but is the construction different since they're singles (stronger cores)? Personally I feel like it'd be a good way to save weight in the alpine and for the occasional moderate sport/trad(/crag?) route where big falls aren't going to happen, as well as being suitable for glacier travel without the weight. I've read that rappelling can be a bit sketchy but if you take a 7-8mm rap line it seems manageable (plus rope length raps). Obviously the hardcore use even skinnier half ropes as singles on big routes for weight savings, but what about 'normal' climber use? So what are your opinions/experience with this?

Been in Quito for 2 months and climbed Cayambe last weekend (almost as tall as Coto), it went well besides kicking my out of shape ass...once you get into Quito give it a few days, do some acclimatization hikes and you should be good to go! As far as technicality, like everyone has said its just a glacier walk (you could probably follow the trail up w/o a guide) Also don't miss out on the other volcanoes like Cayambe, Chimborazo, Illiniza (Sur), and Antisana (if you're so inclined)... Good luck!

Damnit why am I still in school? Any job in Bellingham, even more so for the AAI would be super sick...

So I'm down in Quito, Ecuador until the end of the year, and today I made the crucial realization that I'm closer to the gnarly knife-edges and slopey seracs of the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash than I've ever been... Which means, of course, that time must be made to get after it! I was wondering if anyone who's been can tell me their schedules, recommendations, any and all info that's relevant to climbing in this range (and on a potentially short time frame). Since I'll be going to school in Quito there's only so much time I can take off, so whether or not a trip down there is reasonable would also be helpful! Thanks in advance!

Hey been in Quito for a month, just climbed Guagua Pichincha yesterday, cool shit... Anyway, can anyone give me beta on the non-standard routes on Cotopaxi, Illiniza Sur, Antisana (especially), Cayambe (or any others!) Looking for more than a glacier slog at elevation; there's gotta be some harder stuff already put up! Thanks in advance

Anyone know how I would fare on any and all of the volcanoes with Trango S evos? Too cold? I have plastics but it would be inconvenient... Also has anyone climbed El Altar? Looks awesome!

Looking to buy a lightly used 60m or 70m (preferably dry) rope, the skinnier the better (for a single), so ~9.1 or so...just trying not to pay full price Thanks

Just wondering if anyone knows if the north face is still in, looks like theres some melt-freeze going on, but avy danger has been sketchy and I'd assume rockfall is becoming an issue. Anyone have updates? Much appreciated!