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I was wondering how feasible it would be to climb using a fatter half rope (~9mm x 60m/70m) as a single; I know Millet makes a single 9mm and there's a few 9.2mm single cords out there, but is the construction different since they're singles (stronger cores)? Personally I feel like it'd be a good way to save weight in the alpine and for the occasional moderate sport/trad(/crag?) route where big falls aren't going to happen, as well as being suitable for glacier travel without the weight. I've read that rappelling can be a bit sketchy but if you take a 7-8mm rap line it seems manageable (plus rope length raps). Obviously the hardcore use even skinnier half ropes as singles on big routes for weight savings, but what about 'normal' climber use? So what are your opinions/experience with this?

Been in Quito for 2 months and climbed Cayambe last weekend (almost as tall as Coto), it went well besides kicking my out of shape ass...once you get into Quito give it a few days, do some acclimatization hikes and you should be good to go! As far as technicality, like everyone has said its just a glacier walk (you could probably follow the trail up w/o a guide) Also don't miss out on the other volcanoes like Cayambe, Chimborazo, Illiniza (Sur), and Antisana (if you're so inclined)... Good luck!

Damnit why am I still in school? Any job in Bellingham, even more so for the AAI would be super sick...

So I'm down in Quito, Ecuador until the end of the year, and today I made the crucial realization that I'm closer to the gnarly knife-edges and slopey seracs of the Cordillera Blanca and Huayhuash than I've ever been... Which means, of course, that time must be made to get after it! I was wondering if anyone who's been can tell me their schedules, recommendations, any and all info that's relevant to climbing in this range (and on a potentially short time frame). Since I'll be going to school in Quito there's only so much time I can take off, so whether or not a trip down there is reasonable would also be helpful! Thanks in advance!

Hey been in Quito for a month, just climbed Guagua Pichincha yesterday, cool shit... Anyway, can anyone give me beta on the non-standard routes on Cotopaxi, Illiniza Sur, Antisana (especially), Cayambe (or any others!) Looking for more than a glacier slog at elevation; there's gotta be some harder stuff already put up! Thanks in advance

Anyone know how I would fare on any and all of the volcanoes with Trango S evos? Too cold? I have plastics but it would be inconvenient... Also has anyone climbed El Altar? Looks awesome!

Just wondering if anyone knows if the north face is still in, looks like theres some melt-freeze going on, but avy danger has been sketchy and I'd assume rockfall is becoming an issue. Anyone have updates? Much appreciated!

Well...he is a GA flatlander You might consider heading further north...

Read Freedom Of The Hills...good stuff

Hey, me and a few friends are studying abroad in Ecuador from June to December, and I definitely wanna get some volcanoes and other climbing in. Does anyone have any recommendations on guides (or the lack of) for the volcanoes, any necessary gear I should bring, or any travel/logistics advice? Also, does anyone know about any cragging near Quito, I'd hate to not climb for 7 months! Any and all comments are appreciated, thanks!

Hey does anyone know how long icefields parkway/canmore/alberta ice is in? My spring break starts next Friday, any chance I'd still find some fat lines? Thanks

What would you say the route goes at when its this fat? Nice job!

NWAC only has avy info for up to 7000'...which is relatively high for most of the cascades, but what about Hood? I'd rather not waste my time slogging around to dig a pit above 7k and realize its not safe, only to go back home..

Not quite sure but ~2 fat fingers would fit...I tried an intuition liner in it but it was still a bit sloppy with too much heel lift. I'd rather have a small shell then bake the liners so they're snug...oh, the long-term price for an online bargain!

Good point...but how do you afford alpine climbing in South America? How do you even get gear down there...? Sure its been done/can be done though

Interesting responses...I think what I really meant was a minimalist lifestyle via seasonal employment, probably in the form of guiding, or S&R. 'Serious' dirtbagging would be pretty hard considering the lack of $$ (or resources in general), but there's certainly good minimalist lessons to be learned from it IMO.

As a student, rather naive to the realistic demands of life, but overpowered with idealism and ambition...I was wondering, have any of you ever dirtbagged? A few months here and there isn't quite what I'm looking for (that's a vacation), I mean a committed, minimalistic lifestyle completely focused on climbing (and/or skiing). I know that when I get out of college, I want to climb as much as possible (probably guide...I know they're not the same though), and definitely not hold a 'traditional' 9-5 wage-slave job at a cubicle (not to offend anyone!) Anyway, dirtbagging seems like a waning possibility with the absurd trail/camping fees the USFS is ever enforcing; is it still possible? Can you be an alpine climbing dirtbag (my question is where do your wet gear dry..?) with the excessive permit system and all its restrictions in effect? I'm sure dirtbagging is better suited for more mild regions in either case. I suppose this is a broad topic, but just spill your thoughts; what do you really need to 'survive' and climb, your thoughts on the matter, and if you have experience, if it really is all its cracked up to be? Thanks!

Thanks, I went to OMC in pdx and she basically laughed when I put my foot in the shell without a liner...so I just need a smaller boot. Bummer

Hot damn that's what I'm talking about! I'm a college kid with minimal weekend time on my hands so maybe a longer link up will have to wait...anyways I'll definitely try these out...thanks guys

Hey everyone, I have a pair of scarpa omegas that, being bought in the fervor of reduced prices online (thanks STP..), are a little big. I didn't think it was a problem till I took out the liner and put my foot in; the boot is probably (at least) a half size large..anyway, does anyone have experience with intuition liners? Besides all of their benefits, are they beefy enough to fill a (half size) too-big boot? The only way to know is to go check it out, I'm just curious if anyone has resolved a similar problem with this solution. Thanks! -Max

Ha fair enough. I didn't realize Cooper Spur was easily downclimbed; I mostly only want to do the SS because I've never done it, and it'd probably be a good idea to know the descent route (from cooper spur). Do you guys know if devils kitchen or the black spider area are in now, those would probably beat the SS or cooper...

Hey I was just entertaining the notion of a southside/cooper spur linkup- climb the south side, then downclimb, traverse over, climb the cooper spur, then downclimb the south side (in a single push). Anyone ever heard of this being done/have you done it/how feasible is it? Considering you'd basically be climbing overnight to make good time, would route-finding be sketchy across the glaciers (crevasses..?) Obviously you'd need a solid weather window and good avy conditions...just thinking a long day on the mountain is in order soon... Much appreciated -Max

A year? Maybe I'm just a wide-eyed college kid, but I'd say a year is only a small step in the right direction...the cheaper you live, the longer you can sustain yourself, so save up some money and dirtbag it for a couple years (at least!). You have no commitments now, so dive into it while you can- you have the education as a back up plan, anyways! Just my perspective (or lack thereof)

Just went there for my first time with my buddy two weeks ago, if you're gonna toprope bring a 70m, (some of the routes necessitate lowering then belaying from the top because theyre >35m). Also, bring a lot of cord to extend anchors (potentially even another rope!), as some of the trees are pretty far away...I think most/all of the mixed stuff is bolted; as for food, try the Buen Tiempo..routes up to M9 so fruit boots are your call, belaying from above or below is also your call, but (with enough cord) you'll be able to find anchors at the top of anything (I think..), and at the local shop you can pick up a very useful (albeit rather expensive) guidebook. Hope that helps, also check the mtnproject page, theres some more useful beta there! You'll love it...

Iphone...seriously? Prussik that's exactly what I was looking for, guess I could have just checked nwac.gov though. Thanks