Jim S

Have not been on here for a bit and saw your reply. Don't mind that you did not bring the axe and found the remark about "your fathers ice axe" hilarious (but true). Also did another trip over Little Giant Pass to the Napeequa then out to Buck Creek Pass. Beautiful country. I am glad people are still stomping around to the more remote and possibly obscure areas in the Cascades. No pictures left from these trips, never much of a picture taker. I think you are correct about there being snow in the gulley when we did it. The loss of snow and ice since I lived in Washington is staggering. Remember climbing an icefall in the Lyman Glacier back in the late 70s. The current photos show a rotten dirty cliff where we had ice. Thanks again for posting this. No one really knows for sure about the ice axe but we all remembered our friend having an identical one.

Climbed this route in 1980. Must say the axe looks familiar. A long lost partner had an axe that looked like that and some corner of my brain thinks he might have lost it up there. Trying to reconnect with him and see what he says. Enjoyed reading about your experience. Remember tons of Devils Club between the creek and the lake. The rock on the route seemed pretty good after all that vegitation.

Go for it and have a plan B. I have been a dirt bag climber and skier for decades, and happen to drive a Accent as well, the hatchback. Strap the skies to the roof but be sure they are in a ski bag to protect from road salt and go for it. I have no record, short hair and in my 60s. I still sleep in the car and ALWAYS wonder what new adventures will come my way crossing the border. There is no reason I can figure out why I have this issue but I always assume that I will get searched, take no chances with anything "illegal" in the car. Have enough cash/credit cards to make it look like you can afford your visit, and have a specific destination in mind, even a specific accommodation you may stay at even though you have no intention of staying there. Based on my past history I always carry my passport when I travel, think you need that for Canada anyway. Keep your beard, keep your mouth shut, and follow their directions - no humor for sure. To be honest I have more issues returning to the states than leaving.

WOW - things change. I made it into this area the summer of 1981, first, 4th of July weekend when we skied everywhere in the area on perfect corn and once again in the fall when we approached from the Suiattle and up the Honeycomb. No skis this time but still plenty of snow and ice. The glaciers looked huge and permanent - not so much I guess. Your photo of the Whitechuck looked like a whole different world than I remember. Saw no one until the return to Kennedy Hot Springs. Thanks so much for posting this.

To know the envelope you have to push the envelope, and be prepared. I watch the forecast, prepare accordingly, and go for it, often solo. About 80 percent of the time I have a glorious ski, climb, bike, whatever. Maybe 20 percent I have to duck and run. "They sicken of the calm, who knew the storm" Dorothy Parker

I have been a pretty off the radar of law enforcement my entire life, much of this having to do with skin color and age. The exception to this has been in the national parks, but even there the treatment like you received happened but it was the exception and was the action of a few power tripping individuals. I was fortunate to have many climbing partners who worked in the parks and were great folk. At some point a rigid law enforcement mentality took over. Rangers in the mold of Ed Abbey were replaced by well-armed Kevlar vested police and somehow the back country folks became the enemy. This winter a retired friend who happen to be an avid Nordic skier could not sleep and headed out for a moonlight ski at a local park, at 4AM. When he got back to his car a squad was waiting and threatened to impound his car because the park did not open until 5. Not sure of the answer but it is a sad state of affairs.

I have been a pretty off the radar of law enforcement my entire life, much of this having to do with skin color and age. The exception to this has been in the national parks, but even there the treatment like you received happened but it was the exception and was the action of a few power tripping individuals. I was fortunate to have many climbing partners who worked in the parks and were great folk. At some point a rigid law enforcement mentality took over. Rangers in the mold of Ed Abbey were replaced by well-armed Kevlar vested police and somehow the back country folks became the enemy. This winter a retired friend who happen to be an avid Nordic skier could not sleep and headed out for a moonlight ski at a local park, at 4AM. When he got back to his car a squad was waiting and threatened to impound his car because the park did not open until 5. Not sure of the answer but it is a sad state of affairs.

I used to climb with some rangers in Rocky Mountain NP. Returning to the park headquarters at the end of the day the head climbing ranger was getting ready to go out on night patrol in the park. A skinny little rock climber, he was looking quite buff for a change with a Kevlar vest under his ranger shirt and he was loading a shotgun into his vehicle. Later that night my partner showed me the incident reports for the year, they looked like urban crime reports. This helped explain to me the changes I have seen. Whether you are a climber, skier or a tourist walking around Paradise in a Hawaiian shirt and you break a rule you are simply another perpetrator who just might be packing a hidden weapon. In many ways rangers too are victims of the fear and violence found in our society.

Park Rangers used to represent my favorite type of outdoor people, adventurous misfits who loved wild places and understood climber and skier types. The role model for many I knew was Ed Abbey (remember him). Some still understand, but today it is all about law enforcement and following the rules. Hope you get lots of winter this year, here in the Midwest I biked in shorts yesterday - in Minnesota, in November - disgusting.

Love this area. Great climbing, great rock, far from the crowds. Nice photo of the top part of the SE buttress. I do remember hunting around for the beginning of the SE buttress but that there was a mid-fifth class way to begin. Those last headwalls in the photo offered great crack climbing with spacious belay ledges to enjoy the views. One of my favorite mountains. Nice work getting in there.

Great Job. I was active climbing many of the unvisited peaks in the Holden, Lake Chelan area is the late 70s and early 80s. The rare name we saw in a summit register was some guy named Russ Kroker (sp) with a group called the Bulgers. Having never heard of that group it was somewhat of a mystery to us who this guy was, who the group was and why are they climbing all these obscure peaks? My hat is off to you. The peaks may not be highly technical but they sure offer full value approaches and the need for well rounded alpine skills. The dresses fool no one - you are an animal.

Was this person at Holden married to a Soviet or one of their local guides? I remember two of them Bjornsted was one and Mike Helms was the other, both excellent climbers. I remember that snow climb up the MG route. One of the crazier things I have done. Anchors were useless pickets and the snow was rotten all the way to the summit. Good to hear from you Thomas. Hi to your Mom and Dad.

I lived at Holden in the late 70s. Climbed Bonanza 5 times by various routes. Did the MG route without a rope above the glacier but there were too many holes to go alone. Tried the south face but the weather crapped out. The berry crop failed that year and we saw a bear tumble down the south face. Don't know what was up with that. Nice job on the south face. Thats a long day from Hart Lake. You should see the avalanches that come off that approach in the winter - huge. I was there when the Soviets came through in 75? What a tough bunch but really warmed up when we brought out a tray of cookies when they were sorting their gear.

I live at Holden for a few years in the late 70. There were a few of us active in the area and climbed everything we could figure out how to approach. Climbed Riddle numerous times and even did a rock climb on one of those towers. A mite loose. Glad to see some people still tromping around the area, scenic but the rock is not great.

I was at Holden in 1975 when the Soviets came through on their AAC exchange and they were one tough group. An old partner of mine was one of the American climbers with them. They also climbed Dumbbell and ran up Liberty Ridge with huge packs. When questioned why they had so much gear the response was that it was difficult to play cards in a small tent and impossible in no tent at all. A few years later a couple of Scots tried to repeat the route but we weathered off. I also heard of a few ascents but don't know any details.

Love your style. Did the 6th ascent of the NE Buttress years ago on a marathon from L Chelan. Your report brought me back. We tried to take as little gear as possible and kept on moving. Spent more than a few nights wrapped in not much more than a rope. Great job.