Jason L.

Nice job! We climbed that Saturday. Did your bivy get hit with the strong winds that came in that night?

This past Sunday.

Left Gate is in great shape. DKHW and variation still too bare. Another team summited via Reid today.

We are going to give it a shot this weekend and this thread was really the only information I could find. Plan is to climb Eldorado and then head over to Sahale before heading back down to the road. If anyone else has helpful information it would be greatly appreciated. Right now the only "crux" would be crossing the SW ridge of Torment and doing it at 6600'. Thanks, Jason

Trip: Mount Adams - Adams Glacier Date: 7/21/2013 Trip Report: If anyone is climbing this in the next week or two would you keep an eye out for two ice screws with Hello Kitty stickers on it? Lucky to have a free weekend to climb with two friends (Todd and Katie) on a route that's still in pretty good condition. Bigger bonus was having my old PCT buddy Fitz Manley and our dogs join us for the hike in. Maybe I'm jaded but I found the dusty hot approach unpleasant. The bugs are out at lower elevations right now but good news is they are minimal above 7,000' which is where we camped. Great campsite in the alpine meadows before the moraine which meant still another two hours to get to the base of the route the next morning but at least we weren't camping on snow. Nicer spot than camping at the moraine lake for sure. Started at 3:30am and at the base of the route two hours later. Roped up and found the snow in great firm condition. No protection due to the nice sun cups on the route. Took a little bit of time to route find through the icefall but my partners found the way through pretty efficiently. We found a ramp near the far left back corner that took us up to a crack that allowed us to reach the top of the "cliff". The rest of the route moved briskly, with us hugging the right for the next crevasse (thanks APE!). Some time after 10am we reached the top of the route and dropped the rope. That's when I discovered I was missing two screws . We had no desire to walk the 1/2 mile over to summit as we had all been there a couple of times before. Down the dry loose North Ridge which sucks. Almost more tempting to glissade Adams Glacier. Gear Notes: a few screws and maybe a picket. Two tools were helpful for the slush fest found in the ice fall.

A couple of screws and a second came in handy. At least one spot that was awkward enough to be happy to have brought it. Otherwise just generic steep slopes which made for fun times.

We climbed Adams Glacier yesterday and the route finding wasn't nearly as bad as I expected (thanks APE!). For the most part it was solid snow, a little ice, and some slush (at the most inopportune moment). I would say the route will still be in for awhile longer if anyone still wants to go after it. I've seen very little talk about the route this year and we had it all to ourselves yesterday. MOST IMPORTANT: If anyone climbs it and finds two screws with Hello Kitty stickers on it, I would be most thankful for their return. I will repay you with some fine beers.

PM Sent. Thanks!

We are headed up there this weekend. Is route finding difficult the entire way up or just the lower sections?

I'm confused. If he was climbing LC then there's no reason to cross Yocum Ridge or end up on the Sandy.

Thanks everybody, this has given me several new ideas to try out. Right now I have the socks ordered and will upgrade my insoles. Hopefully this will work out and I can avoid spending the extra money on new boots.

Definitely expensive, but if they can keep my feet warm then that would be worth it. Do you wear them by themselves or in combination with another layer?

Bob, 1 or 2 degree difference between the Red Superfeet and manufacturer's insole or was it between the Red Superfeet and green Spenco? Thanks for the input.

I've been doing my research on new winter boots since the current pairs I own aren't cutting it (Scarpa Mont Blanc and Kayland Hypertraction). However, instead of spending money on brand new boots, I'm trying to find ways of improving what I already have. I already own a pair of smartwool mountaineering socks which I use in addition to a mid-weight pair of socks. I have enough room in my scarpas (and not too much either), while my hypertraction fits a little tight in my left boot. Has anyone upgraded their insoles for winter climbing? Spenco makes a FLOW Warm but didn't know how well it works. Anything else out there that can be recommended? I searched the forums here but came up with nothing. Thanks!

ThaNks for the link. I've done timberline trail in a day (which has comparable stats) but this just feels like it would be so much tougher.