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MrGecko

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  1. Books added to original list: A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. 1) South Lake Tahoe Climbing, C.McNamara, Supertopo - NEW - $15 2) Smith Rock Select, J.Thesenga - NEW - $5 3) Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 4) Bugaboo Rock, 2nd Ed., R.Green & J.Bensen - NEW - $15 5) Yosemite Climbs Free Climbs, D.Reid - GOOD - $10 6) Yosemite Select, Best Yosemite Climbing, D.Reid - NEW - $10 7) Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, Supertopo - GOOD - $15 8) Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows, D.Reid - GOOD - $10 9) Mount Whitney Guide, P.Hellweg - GOOD - $5 10) Rock Climbing Colorado, S.Green - GOOD - $5 11) Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas, D.Jackson - GOOD - $10 12) Hikers & Climbers Guide to Sandals, M.Hill - NEW - $10 13) The High Sierra, R.Secor - GOOD - $5 14) Denali Climbing Guide, R.Secor - NEW - $10 15) Selected Climbs at Red River Gorge, P.Jarrard - NEW - $5 16) Sport Climbing in New Mexico, R.Jett - GOOD - $10 17) San Luis Valley Climbing/Bouldering, B.Antonio - GOOD - $5
  2. Looks like this would have been lost in 2014 season based on the condition of the shoe. Superfeet insole inside, very clean. Size 8.5
  3. Go check out Dad's Nuts for some free cams, Omega and DMM are wedgied and ready for the taking. Bring a crowbar and hammer and perhaps some lube.
  4. A bunch of guides with condition listed. I will ship via Media Mail from Portland. 1) South Lake Tahoe Climbing, C.McNamara, Supertopo - NEW - $15 2) Smith Rock Select, J.Thesenga - NEW - $5 3) Squeezing The Lemon, E.Fazio-Rhicard - NEW - $5 4) Bugaboo Rock, 2nd Ed., R.Green & J.Bensen - NEW - $15 5) Yosemite Climbs Free Climbs, D.Reid - GOOD - $10 6) Yosemite Select, Best Yosemite Climbing, D.Reid - NEW - $10 7) Yosemite Valley Free Climbs, Supertopo - GOOD - $15 8) Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows, D.Reid & Falkenstein - GOOD - $10 9) Mount Whitney Guide, P.Hellweg, - GOOD - $5
  5. --- Ozone Updates --- A number of climbers have been doing some cleaning, bolting and route development at Ozone so I thought I'd share a summary of what I know. Feel free to contribute anything recent that you might know or have participated in. I'll cross post on CC in the Gorge section. Referencing the Portland Rock Climbs guide numbering system as # and route names capitalized. A) GRAB N' GO, 5.10c/d, 6 QDs - Micah's new addition to the wall follows a line just to the right of HOUSE OF PAIN, #10 B) HELM'S DEEP, #12 was retro bolted and no longer requires gear C) WINE & CHEESE, #27 was scrubbed but with the PG rating and run outs is going to get some retro bolting in the near future. D) GANESH, #28 was scrubbed and de-bushed and takes gear well. If one uses a long runner on the DIRTY JUGS, #29 bolt before breaking left the route protects fine. The R rating is due to a large block up high that needs more inspection but not because of run outs. GAN update E) SWEEPING BEAUTY, #30 had a bolt added to the lower easier half of the climb. The alternative is to start on DIRTY JUGS, #29 and finish on SWEEPING BEAUTY which is called DIRTY BEAUTY, this eliminates the need for gear.SB update F) ROLLING THUNDER, #44 was retro bolted up at the exit to protect the second from a bad fall after unclipping what was previously the last bolt. RT update G) STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN, #47 the first bolt was chopped in the spring by the gate keeper of all things 5.6 STH update H) RIPPER, #59 got a nice extension added called FULL JACK, 5.9/10a That was the work of Benjamin Grandy and myself back in June, it can be protected with a 1 and/or 2 MasterCam. R update I) GETTING YOUR KICKS, #70 lost a big part of a key hold on the lower overhung section around the first bolt. There is talk of removing what looks like is now a dead tree and potential back breaker.
  6. So does this mean SB is all sport now with no gear required? I used to turn this route into QDs only by starting on Dirty Jugs and transitioning into it, ie. Dirty Beauty Thx
  7. I'll take everything listed under your carabiners section. Please contact me at topher@miraiusa.com Or 206.659.6961 Thx
  8. Fury - MSR's lightest, extreme-condition mountaineering tent can be pitched in limited space BRAND NEW WITH TAGS - $400 Purchased for expedition to Alaska but did not go. The Fury 2-person lightweight mountaineering tent offers unmatched double-wall strength and reliability. The tent's small footprint allows it to be pitched with minimal platform prep on steep slopes and ridges, and it weighs just 6 lbs 4 oz (2.84 kg). A roomy, hooped front vestibule maximizes critical interior space, and a large rear window keeps weight down without compromising the excellent cross-ventilation that's mandatory in a mountaineering tent of this size. Brand new with tags, never used, 7lbs 3oz, retails for $599 I would consider a trade for a porta-ledge in equivalent condition/value. Located in Portland but can deliver to Seattle if you time your purchase right! http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/tents/explore-series/fury/product
  9. Went back out with LostCamK and after a lap on Right Gull we rapped down Jill's and traversed over to SE Corner. Did the good pitch and instead of going to the tree ledge we traversed to the top of the second pitch of YW and did the third, fourth and fifth pitches. Ivan was right, I only missed a bit on the 4th pitch but did get the intro to the 'proper' 5th pitch which traverses up right from the belay and clips a pin and a bolt and then eventually meets the ridge. Thanks All!
  10. Good Hezues! Better head out with you Steve and do it again...grrrr
  11. Thanks Mr Ivan - I thought maybe those intermediate anchors were for the Elusive Element or Cloud Nine routes and was thinking I might have missed the YW upper line.
  12. For all you well traveled trad masters of the Beacon. Went up YW yesterday and have a question with regards to the 4th pitch that heads up the rounded arete. From the large ledge I stepped left and began moving up to where I found a 1/4" bolt (time to replace this). I continued on past another 3/8" rusty bolt (needs to be replaced as well) and then got some gear in a flake above that. I pulled over a small lip and found two rusted home made anchors and then moved right across a slab and further up some fun slab with a pin in it and eventually ended up at the SE Corner belay stance. The route description didn't mention any bolts, pins or an intermediate belay. Was I on route or ???
  13. Apparently there was a tragedy over the weekend on Infinite Bliss. Condolences go out to all friends and family of the climbers involved. I am always moved when I hear of friends and acquaintances who lose their life while pursuing something that they love and brings them joy. Precious are our lives, live passionately my fellow wall mates.
  14. Crimper email me the pics I'll post them for you. t @ miraiusa . com
  15. Still have a bunch of stuff from the original post: Black Diamond Twist Lock Ice Axe Leash - $5 A5 Shoulder Double Gear Loop - $10 MSR Miox Water Purifier - $45 MSR E-Wing 2 Person Shelter - $70 New never used http://www.rei.com/product/810040/msr-e-wing-shelter Groove Air Force One Mini Skis - $100 MSR Hyperflow Water Filter Cartridge - $20 each New never used Garmont Light Weight Climbing Boots - $35 Used once, great shape, size 8 Perfect for something like Stuart North Ridge type routes Seal Line Dry Bag 20L - $10 Charlet Moser Spiky Ice Approach Overshoe - $10 light weight used for winter trail running
  16. Looking for a partner for Sawtooths. Elephants Perch main objective, should lead trad and have alpine experience. Text me 206.659.6961
  17. THANKS PARTNER FOUND August quickly approaching and I am itching to get out to the Wind River Range for some multi-pitch granite and classics. Plenty of moderate lines for the mountain goat in you! 10-14 days available including drive days from Portland. Who's in? I've got a ton of alpine experience, plenty of gear and time. My current partner bailed out due to injury.
  18. BEWARE OF OLD MENS PITONS Anyone driving pitons at Beacon needs to pass some age requirements, Joe how old were you when those pitons went in? "Myth 3:- You drive a piton in until the pitch of the ringing stops rising. All the pitons I tested had different pitches of ringing, angles making a lovely sound even when not in a crack. Stopping driving early when the pitch appeared tobe at it´s highest gave easy to remove pitons, in fact what we considered `good´ turned out to be unable to even hold the initial weight of the tester. The maximum pull-out resistance was achieved when they were "beaten to death", either because we just couldn´t hit them any harder or they started to collapse. Of course ones ability to hear when the ringing stops rising could be age related anyway, beware of old mens pitons!"
  19. Hey Ganesh 5.9R was cleaned up and devegetated at Ozone and is actually a fun route with good protection. The R rating comes because of a block 2/3 way up that is secure enough but should probably be cleared. Go get on it, shares Wine & Cheese's top anchors.
  20. Some dude fessed up to it ... believes the section can be protected with a cam. Apparently he's an expert on 5.6 sport routes
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