MrGecko

Kevin - any chance you want to add your latest and greatest routes here? Flash In The Park Pan Handled and Whats That Other One Called?

I'm in want of some of this, rope hook for sure.

Rad - all bolts seemed to be in good shape less that eye sore which is hanging loose and well beaten but not removed on the start of pitch 3. Have you considered a separate rap line down the buttress? RAPPEL ADVICE If you end up bringing two ropes then you will only need them for rapping pitch 6 and pitch 1. Backpack the second rope for all other rappels and save yourself the trouble of getting the knot stuck. Ideally use a 70m rope.

So is this Stone Soup or Smoke Signals? It'd be nice to have it clear for the new guide book.

"but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch..." So Pink, what did you climb as the second pitch if it wasn't the line Ivan climbed as Stone Soup?

Wrong side of the river G-Spot

oh now things are a heat'in up, did someone say fighten werds? What's the story here? but...like...yeah...you didn't do the same second pitch...

Looks like Micah beat me to it but yeah the Smoke Signals to Stone Soup connection went well yesterday. There is a fair amount of tat on the line and we cleaned up what we could. A short list of TO-Do's remains so that the link up will run a bit more smoothly for free climbing it. Some of the points where the belays are moved up 10m or so need to have a second anchor added. Most of these just need to be 2 bolts and not rap anchors as they don't really serve well for the somewhat existing rap line. The rap line itself will get a few replacements to accommodate a single rope retreat from as high as pitch 6. Perhaps I can recruit Ivan to assist with that since he seems to know the general decent line well. Most of the gear is solid, the bolt at the base of the double off width on P3 is a spinner and not just the hanger. I'm not keen on adding another bolt on that section as I'd rather see folks carry a #6 cam rather than leaving it in the closet its whole life. There is also a chock stone that can be used if any of them new climbers can figure out how that is done. Pitch 4 has at least 3 variations at this point including a 5.5, 5.10d/11a, maybe 12 or aiding a bolt ladder. Pitch 5 will get a variation thru the roof which will be more along the 11- grade and the tied off pin under the roof will likely get replaced with a bolt more in line for the free climber. Pitch 6 This is the pitch that is most concerning for me. The belayer is in a bad position given the large number of loose blocks above. There is also the concern about where these would land if they were knocked off. Inevitably they will come down at one point or another, only a matter of time. I feel a coordinated effort would be the best remedy here. There is also a possibility for a reroute of pitch 6 to avoid those blocks altogether but that is yet to be determined. I've thrown together these images as a topo, the last 2 pitches might be a bit off but the general idea is there and the route fits the description in the PRG. Pitch 2 & 3 Upper pitches Pitch 2 detail Looking up pitch 2

...or the village whore...

Jack The Ripper Added an extension to the fine crack route called Ripper. Goes up about 30m or so and currently shares top anchors with Orion. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/jack-the-ripper/109532675

Does the route follow the top rope line up and over to the anchors as shown in your picture below? Jim mentioned it was April 11, 99 or 2000 that he thinks you did the route with him. You recall?

Mr.Pink - I'll check out that start and let you know. I don't recall exactly how many bolts and pins are on P2 but Bill's count sounds about right. Are you serious it is called Leprechauns in Leotards? Who put that up if it wasn't Jim and Andrew? 11b??

Bejebus Ivan - sorry to hear that dude.

Jim was very stoked to see us freeing P2 of Smoke Signals. I saw a car stop in the parking area and this guy watched us intently for quite some time. When we made it back to the Parking Lot ledge he yelled up "Great job! Its about time that route gets freed more often!" I recognized him from his voice and he looked very pleased giving us the thumbs up numerous times. I'll definitely get him involved and out there to get his hands dirty. Please get Jim out there, that would make me happier than anything. Thanks, Andrew

Thanks again Pink, I'll chat with Jim and get him to chime in with his ultimate wisdom and mayor-shipery. Hopefully he can come out, climb and help clean that first pitch up with us!