chubler

Paleo all the way - veggies, nuts, lean meats and lots of good fat. Fat is the key. Get your body to realize that is what it needs to burn and then it becomes the consistant efficiency food. I've even read of guys running low on energy and taking shots of olive oil to help pull them through a long day. I find I do best when my "good" fat reserves are in line. First thing: why are you posting this? Are you experiencing declines in performance? Dragging ass when you head out? The most recent sports nutrition research shows that carb loading is a waste of time. All you can do is top off your glycogen carrying capacity by a small degree - all of the excess carbohydrate goes to conversion to triglycerides (body fat). The "best" breakfast is one that starts the instant you wake up, and then ends an hour before dinner. Seriously, you can't expect 1 meal in the morning to provide all the nutrition for the rest of the day - topping off every hour during the day seems to be what all of the elite endurance athletes do, and the research shows that it works. Carbs should make up as much as 60% of an endurance athlete's diet, with fats and proteins making up the remaining 20 + 20%. Doing so should help to optimize the hormonal response to training/climbing. It shouldn't matter so much "what" you eat, but how you time it around exercise. This is key - eat and hydrate all day.

How is this for current condtions? Add this to the terrible situation on Mt. Rainier right now and woof - hit the crags instead. http://www.kgw.com/news/Searchers-help-starnded-climber-on-Mt-Hood-95730104.html

Slip-striking my TR is not a concern by me....it's all good. Lazyalpinist is right, it's a quick trip and the road IS open. You can downclimb zipper or walk off the south side. It's a gentle southern slope down to the saddle between Lane and Denman,turn North and work your way through the trees down to the bottom. You can rap from the top down to the snag at the top of ziper or downclimb - really depends on the melt off and how much rock is exposed. Snow levels have still been fairly low - I don't think you'll have too much of an issue crossing the creek - worst case is you'll do some jumping. In terms of another quick climb, you can slog up Denman or bust back to your car, drive down the road a bit further and climb The Castle??? Anything in the Tatoosh is pretty accessible - especially since Lane is such a quick climb.

There is at least 6' of snow in the basin and with a weather forecast calling for snow levels around 3000-5000 for the next week or so, I think you will be fine. Worst case if you are tight on crossing, park further east on the road (closer to the head of the creek) - it may add a few more minutes of hiking but better than wet boots. The Becky Alpine Guide that includes Lane Peak is the Columbia River to Steven's Pass...although the description for Lane is pretty limited. You will get far better beta from this site. Do a TR search on Lane and check out all the info - quite a bit in here. Have a good time on it - it's a blast!

Bump - PHOTOS ADDED! Finally figured that baby out.

It's still in good shape for your next time up there. Not sure when the park is going to get their after hours machine up and running. Those of us that don't carry cash rely on the plastic to carry us through. Thankfully my bro had cash, otherwise we would have been in the same situation.

Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper Date: 5/15/2010 Trip Report: My brother and I climbed Zipper on Lane Peak this last Saturday (5/15). We left o'dark early, scarffed down some PB&J sandwiches and coffee and busted to MRNP. The gate to refelction lakes is open and the road is plowed in past where we parked at the major bend in the road. We left the truck at 5:30, donned the snow shoes as we knew we would need them on the way out with temps in the 70's. Crossing Tatoosh Creek was a non-issue, but the remaining snow bridges will be gone soon making route finding difficult. We got to the base of zipper after crossing a couple of wet sluff avalanches, cached some gear and started up. The route was pretty much straight forward with no exposed rock in the middle. A couple of of small moats have opened but are no issue. Conditions inside the couloir were nice - mixed snow and little ice. Mainly it was an axe plunge fest and single kicks going up - crampons were nice to have. We were visited by a few grapefruit rocks and one small spin avalanche. Funny when the rocks are falling at you they seem to be going very fast, but they SLOWLY rolled by. Wouldn't have been the case if it was icy. There is a cornice at the top of the route on the east side that is going to give way soon - watch out. We topped out at 9:30 in the sun and due to the temps and lack of desire to post-hole to the summit, we elected to post hole down the backside to the saddle between Lane and Denman. We booked down to our cache, donned the floatation devices and hoofed out to the truck. Spent lunch people watching at Paradise and then enjoyed pizza and beer back at home that night. Beautiful day, mountain to ourselves and a fantastic day with my brother - just gets me amped for next time. So, what's next?? Cheers!! Colby Gear Notes: Ice axes, crampons, PB&J sandwiches at 3:00 AM and take floatation devices - it's sloppy on the way down. Approach Notes: Road into Reflection Lakes is open, few snow bridges left on Tatoosh Creek - take snow shoes or skies [

I checked out the Tatoosh webcam for Mt. Rainier NP this morning and the routes still look pretty good, although the 70+ degree weather is not going to help. In looking at Pinnacle you can see quite a few wet slides from the recent dump. We'll bring back some beta for you.

All Sold - thanks everyone!

Pac man - great TR and good photos on the other website! Good beta on the approach too.

Denman it is...not Bryant...my bad. Yes Bryant is up near the tooth and chair!

Yeah, that is the plan...no downclimbing for us...maybe bust around and scramble Bryant before it gets too late.

Thanks for the info - good to know about the road (unless the current weather system has changed things a bit). We'll head to Lane weekend after next - I'll be sure to drop current conditions then.

Thanks for the info! I'll check out their service.

I have a pair of the Asolo Alpinist GV - very comparable to the Experts. My foot is slightly wide, so the the LaSportivas never fit well. The Alpinists fit numatic crampons, rigid enough for steep alpine ice work but flexible enough for the approach. Less expensive than the Experts too. Paid about $200 for them. Good luck!

I have some old Chouinard stoppers and hexes that have been a staple of my rack for years and I am looking to re-sling them. Has anyone had experience with Gemini or Titan cords? Is there something better? The last time I slung them was with Kevlar cord (can't remember the brand)...but not sure what is currently used. Any thoughts or suggestions? Much appreciated!

It's been a while (couple months) since I've seen any trip reports on the couloirs of Lane Peak....anyone know of what the conditions are like on Zipper or Lover's Lane? Still plenty of snow on routes? I've never climbed it (as a winter route) this late in the season - seeing if there is any current beta out there. Thanks!

Overboots left - everything else has sold. Anyone headed to Denali??? These are a beauty!

bump

The more you know, the less you need, right? Trimming the goods a bit and making room.... Men's Lare Arcteryx Theta AR shell - awesome condition - $200 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/clo/1675286752.html - SOLD North Face Men's XL Venture Hyvent Pant - w/ full side zips - $40 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/clo/1675326051.html - SOLD Forty Below Overboots - size 10-11.5 - $35 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/spo/1675302430.html Koflach Ultra Extremes - Men's size 11 - $35 (hammered a bit, but cheap for someone looking to start out) http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/spo/1675308281.html - SOLD PM me if interested in any of it. Thanks!

3/20 - lost a men's XL REI Switchback glove on Rainier - blew off McClure Rock and should be somewhere on Paradise Glacier. Black/Gray color. My right hand glove really misses it and is very lonely. Please call 360.600.8725. Thanks!! Colby