nels0891

Climbed Chockstone yesterday. Indeed there is a lot of snow getting up to the main flow, and the approach pitch is quite hollow as someone speculated above. The pitch itself is quite fat down low, but actually gets a little mushy at the top as the snow-ice interface has resulted in poorly formed, rotten ice. It definitely hadn't been climbed since any of the recent snow, as tunneling ensued to get off the climb. I fixed some cordage on the big tree to the right side at the top of the pitch. Get it while the gettin is good.

Hey Andreas, I'd be interested in some ice climbing, and I can lead. There's a bit right now in the Alpental zone, Chockstone falls and a few other flows. I'd also be interested in Skookum. Shoot me a message at 253-736-3674 or on here. For that matter, anyone else that's interested in climbing ice this winter that sees this feel free to message me. I have lots of time and have climbed a bit of ice.

Last night my car was broken into, and my haul bag containing my rack, rope, harness, helmet, and camera was taken. The contents, more specifically, were: -New green Arcteryx harness -BD cams, doubles from .3-3 and a couple c3s -black BD vector helmet -70m sterling rope, blue -several quickdraws and plenty of alpine draws -Sony camera The theft happened in the U district of Seattle, so it you see it kicking around or hear about a kit of a similar description for sale please let me know. Call/text 253-736-3674 or email nels0891@gmail.com Also, watch yourselves, I wouldn't wish that upon anybody. Thanks people!

Willis Wall would be suicide right now. In case anybody was wondering.

Have a few days off and would love to get on some alpine rock! I work as a climbing guide primarily on Rainier, and have sort of random days off, but I'm flexible with objectives and location within the cascades. All climbs listed I could lead as much or as little as it worked out, but would consider something harder with the right partner. Heres a couple ideas that could make for a good outing: North Ridge of Stuart Backbone Ridge on Dragontail Serpentine Arete on Dragontail Cutthroat Peak South Buttress and other WA Pass shenanigans Torment-Forbidden Traverse etc etc. Hit me with an idea, I just want to get my hands on some rock!

Anybody been into Strobach recently?

you wont find a whole lot in the 10/11- range at riggins as far as i'm concerned. The majority of the limestone here is steep and pumpy routes, particularly in the 12 to 13 range. I've only spent time at the amphitheater, which is pretty highly concentrated with .13's. Personally I wouldn't go unless I was planning on at least climbing like .12's.. thats where the real fun starts at riggins.

Hey Ben, if your still interested I'm looking for a partner still for August. Just out of curiosity, what is your availability looking like for the next few weeks? Also, what is your climbing experience on rainier and elsewhere?

bump

Would like to do Ptarmigan ridge on Rainier in August if the conditions are suitable and thought I'd put the idea out there now. I'm in Colorado right now living at 10,000 feet so I am well acclimatized and am working in the mountains all summer, so I'd like to be able to do this trip quite quickly. I'm also from Washington and have plenty of experience on Rainier.

Agreed. I also found, because im not very tall, that it was easier to go around the diving board underneath it to the left. The whole beached whale thing freaked me out because there isnt any pro until you get up onto it.

Most guide books even have it at like .10, which in my opinion is a little more accurate than .11. I did the climb in March, and brought my two roommates that were new to multipitch climbing. They were just fine with the difficulty, as all of the remotely hard sections all have bolts within arms reach (as mentioned by Layton). I found that the crowds were the only concerning part of the climb... I couldnt believe how many people followed up right behind us. Fortunately, the ledge before catwalk section is huge and can comfortably fit quite a few people. I would agree... now that the commercial came out it is even more popular than ever, so start early to beat the crowds. The summit is pretty memorable though, highly recommend it.

You gonna be out at all next week? I dont think I could make it out tomorrow unfortunately. 5+ sounds a little out of my league, and i'm not really leading much at this point, but i'm up to do some following.

I may have looked pouty, but I was anything but. I don't think I could have been more stoked to be up there with that sunset. Good trip, awesome climbing with an awesome position.

SExNW, I will also be in town when you get back.. If your interested in getting out, that would be awesome. Sounds like we have a similar experience level as well.

I'll be back in the Tacoma area on saturday.. are you just available Friday? I have a similar level of ice climbing experience as you and have plenty of gear. I also do a lot of trad multipitch climbing so belaying is not an issue. Let me know if your interested, id really like to get out.

Im a fan of the pillow technique mentioned above. Try it out and let us know!

Thinking it would be fun to take a trip up the big guy this winter. I've been on a winter climb last year, although we turned around due to questionable avalanche conditions. Given the right forecast and snow conditions, I wouldnt mind getting back up there. Who knows what the weather will be like within the next few weeks, but i'll be back in the Tacoma area around the 18th from school. Let me know if you are interested.

Could have been a sow with cubs nearby. They might not have been within eyesight but if they are anywhere in the vicinity momma definitely won't be backing down. In fact I know a couple people that have been false charged, and in both cases there ended up being cubs.

its that blank huh? I really had no idea, just figured i'd throw the question out of curiosity.

Does anybody know if the route could be climbed on trad gear? I think that would be badass. Thanks.

At some point I'd like to do this climb... that would be the realization of everything I like out of climbing and an incredible accomplishment. Just as Wayne pointed out, the climb and the write up are very inspiring, and hopefully some day I can make my own mark on the area's climbing history. Congrats.

Any chance i can get a copy of that topo you copied from the summit? If you wouldnt mind emailing me a copy that would be super awesome. My email address is nels0891@vandals.uidaho.edu Thanks!

Mad props! Ive been thinking about heading up from Moscow to do that climb this fall before the snow shows up. Looks like a super sweet climb.

beta? follow the boot path but be mindful of new crevasses that may have formed more recently with the late summer heat. Although it can become extremely icy up there given the right conditions, I would consider 40 degree ice rink extremely rare conditions to come upon. Granted, you should always be prepared for any conditions you may encounter, but I wouldnt make that your biggest concern of all other possibilities of potential hazards of climbing. The weekend before last the upper mountain was totally encased in a lenticular cloud and ALL of our solid gear (ie ice axes, carabiners) was covered in about 3/4 inch of ice, but even when the granular snow on the glacier is frozen solid it still doesnt exactly resemble an ice rink. Seems to me that the ice rink like conditions seem to occur more often when there are warm temps and rain on the upper mountain, followed by colder weather or lower temps at night. With that said, its still important to keep your gear ready because stuff happens.