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JoeR

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  1. You can always tie off longer screws I guess. :)

     

    Bad idea, according to manufacturers and ENSA(French Guide School in Chamonix)

     

    Quote from Mark Twight's book Extreme Alpinism

     

    "..tie offs may flatten the screw tube under massive impact, causing stress risers to propagate along it. The stress travels to where the exterior threads of a screw reinforce the tube, and the screw usually snaps there. The same problem is true of a long screw placed to the eye but connected to the rope with a tie-off instead of clipped through the hanger. Screws have broken at the threads, deep inside the ice, due to stress risers. So never tie off a screw except in dire straits.

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