JoeR
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Posts posted by JoeR
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I agree completely with this, but your assertion that the BUS method only has a place in the gym or in top-roping has not been my experience.Point is there's a lot of ways to go about it, and knowing more than one thing is best. Everyone ought to know how to hip belay, nothing can move the rope faster on easy ground. Gri-gri's have their place too, but I find 'em awkward for belaying a leader.
A few points:We were taught that the belay hand must NEVER leave or lose contact with the rope, and so the old hip belay technique,(with the ATC in place of the hips) does this beautifully. This BUS method looks to me like a good way to get fucked up in a big hurry. I've seen people doing it for years, I just thought they'd never learned to belay properly; never realized that it was a formalized technique. Amazing. Definitely something I don't want done on a real climb.1: The belay hand does not ever leave the rope, you seem unfamiliar with this technique.
2: If the Bus method was a good way to get fucked up in a big hurry, it would not be taught by so many gyms and other climbing businesses looking to manage their risk.
3: Your automatic assumption that the method that so many other people were using was wrong just because it is different than the one you were taught is telling.
Wiregates are pretty contraptions... pinch your nuts with the Dulfersitz next time for maximum archaic goodness.Forgot my harness and ATC last fall and still mananaged to do Blownout out at Beacon and rap it with just the end of the rope and a couple of biners. Still completely doable even in the face of all our pretty baubles and contraptions.All in all, each belay method does the job, and a knowledge of each one comes with time and a willingness to accept a world where different people use different methods to achieve a goal. To call something retarded and dangerous just because it isn't the method you were taught is disingenuous at best. That is unless you want climbing to be like an fundamentalist religion.
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That's a completely retarded way to belay.
What exactly is it that makes the BUS method retarded Joseph besides your unfamiliarity with it?
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The BUS method can be performed quickly and smoothly with practice, just like the SSS method. I also find it easier to belay using the BUS method with frozen hands or gloves on.
BUS is the first method I teach new climbers. If they stick with climbing it seems like they learn the SSS method on their own and apply it occasionally as circumstances require i.e. cramped belay ledge or awkward belay position.
I like bringing out the ol' camp chair.. you can even put your feet up on the cooler and bask in the comfort!the ever popular sitting belay on top of beer cooler at the crags.
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Though that music sucks, Ozone rocks. Those of you living in/near the gorge got a playground out there.
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Nicely played sir.
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FA's for rich white guys!
What you got against rich brown guys?
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Buckfast for breakfast?
Also, best quote ever
“It goes straight to your head,” he said, “but it’s not my cup of tea.” (Mr. Rooney noted that his cup of tea is half a bottle of vodka a night.) -
I was staring at that pitch drooling all over the place. Can't wait to get back up there myself. Nicely done.
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Is there or is there not a sugar plum fairy?
[video:youtube]
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Nicely done guys.
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Is the shunt a significant improvement over using an autoblock/prussic off your leg loop? The autoblock has the advantage of being super cheaper and lighter.
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Nicely done
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When Feather Friends had that container full of finished products stolen from them before Christmas, some folks bought gear from them. ...Perhaps we can do something similar for Redpoint as well?
Sounds like a great idea Bill. While I can't buy any big items, I'm sure every little bit helps.
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Hand me down Safety Orange BD Half Dome for me, with Safety Orange reflective striping I found on a highway crew truck for extra safety. I also grow a Safety Orange beard.
SAFETY!
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safety first
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hassle people who didn't pay?
I'm not sure OW. I've never paid and never seen a ranger out there. The only people I've ever seen pay was a NOLS group out there last fall.
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birds in a rut is a classic to bad you didnt get to the diheadral pitch.
It looked awesome, with sweet neon lichen all over it. I can't wait for it to dry out.
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Reminds me of this old blacksmith trick
[video:youtube]
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Trip: Smith Rocks - Birds in a Rut
Date: 1/5/2010
Trip Report:
With the shiny new Watt's guidebook in hand, The Captain and I set off to enjoy Smith Rock at it's finest... Cold and empty of people.
After spending a night in the dirt, we awoke to a sign of the impending collapse of society and all that is good. Terrorists have removed the fee box from Skull Hollow! How are we to pay for our patch of dirt now? For those upstanding climbers wishing to avoid this experience, the climber's bivy at the Smith Rock State Park is more than happy to take your money.
On to the climbing.
Day one saw us at the Dihedrals with some friends out of Eugene. In addition to us, one party was in the area that day. It pays to climb in the cold After climbing the hard new route called "Cinnamon Slab" and making friends with the leader of the other party in the area, we retired to rest and drink a fine champagne made by the Busch company at Skull Hollow.
Day two was spent in quiet contemplation in the Textbooks with our new friend Mike. After sharing a splendid 40 of Pabst Blue Ribbon-what a fine beer that is- we climbed throughout the day, finishing up on "Prom Night", a crack of questionable reputation.
Day Three was spent wandering about, clanking our hexes and cams together so the 5 other people in the park could know we were climbers. I see this as a very important part of climbing. Over lunch we smeared chalk on each other and shouted climbing specific terms across the gorge. I climbed "5-gallon Buckets" since there was no waiting line to get on it. Very fun, felt quite heroic ascending the huge gas pockets and jugs. I was ritually flogged back at camp for clipping bolts and feeling good about it.
Day four saw bad weather on the forecast and intermittent rain. This day was the highlight of the trip. The Captain, Mike and I journeyed out to The Wombat to attempt "Birds in a Rut" a 6 pitch Sprad route featured in the new guidebook. Lots of loose holds and slightly moist lichen on this route, sure to please! I narrowly avoided pulling a pile of boulders off on the second pitch when attempting the 5.8 variation. I backed off and finished normally after pushing the bottom boulder back into place. Be wary of the boulders making up the hand crack if you like your friends. The rain really started midway through the 4th pitch, and the lichen began to exude a substance closely resembling snot. It was at this point we bailed off using the gear we had bootied previously.
We finished the day clanking gear together and drinking in the rain. I recommend this route. Awesome views and a fun approach.
Gear Notes:
Keep outside of pack or on harness so it can clank around, let the tourists know who's boss. The new Watt's guidebook is awesome, be sure to make friends with someone who has one. I also cannot recommend sweatpants enough.
Approach Notes:
Fun approach, bring beer.
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After getting my greasy mitts on this book -no Kirk, I'm not giving it back- I have to say bravo to you Mr. Watts. Thanks for all your hard work, I look forward to buying my own copy as soon as I can. Heirloom quality guidebook!
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it is a horrible thing to wish death on any human(oid).
You are right joe, and I am a horrible person. While his antics can be scarily amusing sometimes, the only reason I can think of wanting him to recover is in the hopes that someday it becomes trendy to punch him in the cock or otherwise terrorize the old gasbag.
Here's to being a mean hippie. 
Nice video Ivan -
I hope every shoe I buy can last that long and perform that well.
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if we are lucky Obama will visit the ol' d-nozzle, and the shock of it will kill the evil bastard... tho the cleveland steamer idea sounds awesome too. Can we pray for both?
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WTF were YOU thinking continuing on?
...and summit post is a waste of time...so much bad beta mostly from people who don't get out much but really enjoy talking about being out...
Last I heard SP does provide some interesting trolling opportunities.Sounds like this guy MIGHT have been qualified to be base camp bitch... of course you would have had to teach him the basics of camping outside.
and lastly, no beer? The most damning act yet!
Corvallis Garage Boulder gym
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Looks cool. PM sent.