Mountaindoc

Looking to do some alpine climbing the next couple of days. I was thinking perhaps Yak Check and Mythic Wall, but I'm open to suggestions.

Bump How about tonight! Christmas in July at McKay's Taphouse. Starts at 6pm. 3 bands and lots of winter beers! Christopher

What do you consider moderate? I'd like to do Yak Check and The Mythic Wall over the next 2 days. They are both 10-

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Rib Date: 7/14/2010 Trip Report: Did this route with Ed. our first together. We got a late start, since I went to the wrong trailhead. I thought the approach was from the hairpin turnout, but actually it starts at the Blue Lake trailhead. So, we left the parking lot at 9:45. The trail is in good shape, with only the last 1/4 mile on snow. Even that late in the day, the snow was firm, and I made good easy progress with approach shoes. Ed chose to wear heavy boots, which are not needed at this time. We started the route at 11am. The split-tipped larch is easy to identify. The first pitch starts about 50 feet to the left, again, easy to identify. The classic 3rd pitch left angling crack is easy to see from the ground as well. The first pitch is fun, easy climbing. It is mostly 5.6/7 climbing with one move of 5.8 pulling past a bulge (100ft). Ed led the second pitch which is 5.6/7. Best to end the pitch at a tree at the base of the 3rd pitch crack (100ft). I led the third, and probably best pitch, which is mostly 5.7 with perhaps one move of 5.8 negotiating a lie-back in the middle of the crack. I rambled up a bit after the crack to a superb ledge at the base of pitch 4 (100ft). Ed led the next pitch and linked up pitches 4 and 5, which is mid 5th class, with a few moves of 5.6 face climbing. This link-up ended up at about 180ft, and Ed found himself with significant rope drag during the face climbing which wasn't ideal. If I were to do this again, I would probably link-up pitches 3 and 4. I had the pleasure of leading pitch 6, or 5 for us, the "bear hug". Very fun pitch! The various guide books rate it 5.7+ or 5.8, which I think is a stretch. The right edge of the column is very positive! And the rock is super grippy, with the crux consisting of only 2 moves (100ft). Ed led the next pitch, running pitches 7 and 8 together, this time with no rope drag issues. This was mid fifth class climbing along the skyline with amazing exposure (180ft)! I led the 9th pitch, which was low 5th class, ending at a rappel station (40ft). I belayed Ed up to me, then lowered him down to the saddle off of the rappel station, which seemed to be the quickest way through this section, since down climbing wasn't an option. After Ed was down, I untied and ran the rope through the rap rings, and had Ed lower me off. At this point there is a 50 ft walk or so to the final slab before the summit, which consists of a 30 ft mid fifth class crack. We chose to belay this out, as exposure is significant at this point. We topped out at 3:30 and hung out for awhile with one of the neighborhood mountain goats. We chose to descend the Southwest Couloir, which was easy going. We made 3 single rope rappels at the bottom, which got us through the majority of the snow. We made it back to the base at 4:45. The snow on the way out was very soft and wet at this point. We were able to glisade through most of it, and my feet were soaked by the time I hit dirt. Boots may have been nice, but we were back to the car and my flip-flops by 5:45, so I didn't care! We followed Jim Nelson's description of the route, which is excellent, however, he doesn't provide a good topo of the route. The best topo is found in the Falcon Guide Rock Climbing Washington. This is a very fun route! It would be a great first 5.8 lead for someone, as the climbing is mostly 5.7 with a couple moves of 5.8, and great exposure! Sorry I don't have any pictures. Gear Notes: We had a double rack of Camelots through 3.5 and a single 4.5 Camelot. I used one 3, 3.5, and 4.5 for the "bear hug". I think a single set of cams would suffice for this route, perhaps supplemented with some hexes.

What are you looking to climb? I'll lead 9+/10-, and I can belay 5.15a! And I can drink beer like a pro! I'm in Wenatchee right now. Christopher

Tyler, I'll call you later today, I'm definitely down! Christopher

I have them off, but I'd like to do some rock! Drop me a line if you are interested.

PM sent

I'm off early this Friday. I'd like to do Dragontail on Saturday, either car to car or camp at Colchuck lake Friday night. Then something else nearby on Sunday, possibly a route on Snow Creek Wall. PM me if you are interested. Mark, I appreciate your responses and enthusiasm, but I think many of these routes are a bit above your abilities at this time. Christopher

Any plans this weekend? I have Fri-Sun off. PM me. Christopher

I've posted here before looking for partners, and I've had some success. However, it's been difficult to find a "regular" partner. Here are the days I know I have off for sure through the end of July: June 4-6 June 19-20 June 25- July 2 July 24- Aug 1 2 more weeks in August Some of my goals: Yak Check Orbit Outer Space Backbone Ridge Mt Stuart - North Ridge Forbidden Peak - West Ridge Chianti Spire - East Face Juno Tower - Clean Break Early Morning Spire - SW Face North Early Winters Spire - NW Corner Slesse Mountain - NE Buttress Bear Mountain - Direct N Buttress Mt Baker - Any route Mt Shuksan - Any route I'd also like to explore recent route development on the Mythic Wall near South Twin Sister I'm also open to suggestions and willing to travel. I'd like to make a trip to the Buggaboos this summer as well. PM, call, or reply here. Looking forward to a prolific summer! Christopher 360.383.6116

I'm in Bellingham. Looking to do Alpine rock, maybe Yak Peak, Snow Creek Wall, Darrington. It's kind of early for Forbidden, but I'd consider that as well or something similar.

Looking to do some alpine climbing this weekend. Drop me a line. I have a long tick list and I'm open to suggestions. Christopher 360.383.6116

Looking for a partner this weekend. I have fri-sun avail. Willing to go just about anywhere it is dry...Skaha, squamish, leavenworth, erie, Darrington. Looking to do moderates, but will follow just about anything. Drop me a line. Christopher 360.383.6116 PS: I live in Bellingham.

Looks like a party on Eldo Glacier! I may head up there too on Saturday.