jcp

Over here on the east coast it's pretty sad. I don't feel as bad if it's not killer out there.

Trip: Leavenworth - R&D Date: 4/4/2010 Trip Report: I brought a friend out to Leavenworth for Easter. As we drove through Steven's Pass I was getting discouraged. The weather report said clouds but no precip, yet it was definitely snowing. As we approached the icicle, it was snowing lightly, so we drove on. My buddy hasn't climbed in 10 years, and only did a very small bit back then, so this was going to be a bit of an adventure for him. We got up to the base, and I roped up and headed off. I had never been on this route, and was a bit surprised to feel the big block move when I pulled on it on P1. P2 was very straightforward, and no pro was placed until the anchor. P3 was a bit exciting since there was water running down the entrance to the chimney, and a bit on the walls of the chimney. It dried up on P4 and was a fun finish. We went up the crack to the right, then finished up the crack above. The final pitch was a full 60m rope length. All in all it was cold but fun, and great to see a friend enjoy getting out on some rock. The snow fell intermittently, and gave it all more of an alpine feel. Gear Notes: 60m rope, standard rack

Damn, I really wanna do a roadtrip now. Great pics, fun to read report.

Solid

You made me miss my favorite climbing area even more. Though I will answer your question about where else can you find a 5.9 with a heel hook. Go to the Gunks, they have 5.3 roof climbs! Great trip write up, and awesome pics. Keep on sending, and enjoy the road trip.

Sounds like a great trip! Way to get after it, even with all the delays of spring break and tits. Solid work

I was up there before this last snow cycle, and it wasn't really ready yet. South facing aspects are nice. I can imagine after the last snow it only got a little worse.

Also, summer weight boots tend to be softer, since they are for walking on trails as well as climbing. Just something I have noticed across the board.

Check out the Asolo Expert boots, they tend to run a bit wider, though not much stiffer than the charmoz. A good summer boot. I haven't tried the Asolo Makalu, but I suspect it may be a bit stiffer, and still run with the wider toe box. For the Kaylands you have, try putting a superfeet footbed, it will help keep your foot more stable in it and reduce slippage to the front. Also, try lacing by running it to the top hook, then down to a hook over the ankle and lacing it there. This sounds silly, but it will help hold your foot further back in the boot. Superfeet guarantee their footbeds with a 100% refund for 60 days, so if it doesn't work, no big deal. It may be an easy $35-45 fix for you. Good luck!

Whoops, I meant I suck at skiing, haha! I'm still an intermediate telemarker at best, so I don't get to venture up too high yet.

Anyone know when the new book is scheduled to come out? I have heard rumors of some cool climbs, and would love to get on them!

Thanks CJB. And lance, you're right. I was really surprised at how good things are looking for the rock season. Sucks for skiing, but that is a topic for another thread!

Trip: Leavenworth - Upper Castle Rock Date: 3/4/2010 Trip Report: My friend and I headed out to Leavenworth to see what rock we could get on. It turns out there is plenty of good stuff closer to the mouth of icicle creek, as long as it is south facing. We decided on Castle Rock, since there were some routes I wanted to hop on. Lower Castle was a pretty wet mess, with the moss holding too much frost and dripping it down all over the routes. We headed up to the base of Jello Tower and started there. There is a small pile of snow in front of Angel, but other than that it is pretty dry on the ground. Early the cracks for Midway and Midway direct were wet, but dried as the day went on. It was a little wet behind Jello Tower, but not too bad. You just had to avoid some of the wetter spots on the wall. If you want the sun on you and the rock, wait until 9:30-10:00. That was when the climbs really came into the sun. We played around on a few different climbs, then headed into L-worth for the evening. 8 mile campground is snowed in, but you can camp there if you walk in and don't mind sleeping on snow. On day 2 I brought my friend to Mountaineers Dome for some anchor building practice and to get him on his first lead climb. Again, it was a warm pleasant day, and a good time overall. Gear Notes: Water, Avocado, Carrots, Turkey, and Fig Newtons. Oh yeah, and a rack.

Thanks for the beta. I'm headed out there tomorrow, and will definitely have the skis. Hopefully I won't make the same mistakes. I try to learn from others! Very detailed report though, much appreciated.

Also, you don't absolutely need pulleys. You can set up the entire system with carabiners and prussiks, but just realize that there will be more friction in the system. I feel this is an acceptable trade off since I really don't think the weight is worth it to carry. Also, realize that if you have two rope teams dropping a drop loop to a fallen climber, or the climber actually climbing out is the most likely scenario. WIth that being said, I HIGHLY agree with genepires. The most important thing to be able to do is set it up without thinking. It should be natural, and a no thinking kind of thing to do. Good luck, and way to practice. I know I need to brush up on my rescue skills!

Well, the gate wasn't closed, but the road was plowed just before the gate, so that is as far as you could go anyway. It was open for the snowmobiles to cruise up and down the road.

Trip: Mazama/HWY 20 - Date: 1/20/2010 Trip Report: I took Feck's advice and headed up to HWY 20. I went solo, and I am still learning, so I kept things pretty darn moderate. I got there mid day on Thursday and it was snowing with some moderate wind. It was very foggy. I skinned in about 3 miles and peeled off the highway to a mellow semi-clearing. Dropping the pack low let me climb up a little bit and get in some decent turns. The snow pack was wet and heavy, and seemed pretty solid in terms of stability. This had a lot to do with the low angle. I got in a few hours of turns the first day, then went between some trees to set up my tarp/snow cave. It snowed consistently through the night and I had to clear off my tarp 5 or 6 times at night. In the morning I got up again and ventured to a new clearing right off the road for some more turns. Despite the snow all night, it was still pretty wet. I headed out around 1pm to do the 5 hour drive back to Seattle. Dropping my knee through the heavy snow really took a toll on my newb thighs! All in all I think it was better than anywhere else in the state. Also, if you are lucky enough to be one of the skiiers with a snowmobile friend, have at it! I jealously watched a few being towed down the highway to ground unventured by me. On the plus side my car did hit 260K miles on this trip, and is still going strong! Approach Notes: Snowmobile would be great, otherwise skins work. Don't be afraid of the local traffic only sign

Thanks!

I am still pretty new to WA's bc skiing. Does anyone know if there is any decent turns to be had in the Methow Valley? I know it is primarily a x/c area. I am a beginning tele skiier, so the terrain doesn't have to be too crazy. It seems to have the best consistent weather conditions that I have seen in WA. Thanks!

The donut dumpster diver one reminds me of my friend and myself in high school. But at least Dunkin Donuts just threw them out, and they were in bags! Yeah, 12 years later, and still a dirtbag.... (why am i still single)

Quit my well paying but miserable job in NJ, sold all my stuff, and moved back to Seattle by driving my completely full 250K+ mile Accord cross country with nothing in it but clothes and climbing gear. Climbed at the Gunks, J-Tree, Adirondacks, and the PNW in the same year. Still suck at climbing, but at least now I'm broke and living on a couch! I love climbing.....

Looks like a great route. I hope to get on it soon. I feel like I am just chasing your new routes! Way to get after em.

Either way it is quickly becoming a favorite climb out here. It is definitely in great shape. Good job on the find!

No, we ended up traversing pretty far to the skiers right, probably too far. There are now two rap stations plus a short walk off. You will need two ropes to get off the third pitch (first rap) and a single rope for the second rap. There were 5 parties up there today and we all appreciated it. Not sure what our problem was on the walk off, but it was definitely sketch when I tried it yesterday.

Is that third pitch any fatter? It was really wet when we were on it? I would be interested in seeing a pic if it was any different. I got on it today, and the third pitch is totally fat. It is still kind of aerated, but at the same time it's fat enough to sink the pick, or even hook some of the deeper icicles. I only placed screws on the third pitch, and it felt good enough to solo. And believe me, I am no hardman. It was a lot of fun. I did follow out the footsteps for the descent until they seemed to run out. We definitely ended up going down some spicy terrain! I think with a double it could be rapped, though I would only do a v-thread on the first pitch. The second can be down climbed, and on the third pitch there is a tree to the right that could be a rap anchor. Overall it was a fun climb, and I'm happy to have gotten on it. There is a couple camping up there tonight to get an early start on it tomorrow. I am meeting up with them again and bringing a new ice climber there. It is a great climb for it. Get on it before there is too much snow.