jlawrence10

Done all of the above. Thanks!

Hello all, Recently a bunch of nice gear popped up for sale on Facebook with a suspiciously low price, and an even more suspicious description (including references to "cleats" and "hooks"). Long story short, I bought it, in hopes of reuniting it with its original owner. There are some distinguishing things not pictured here, so describe those and it's yours. Hoping to recoup my $80 outlay. Best to email me: jlawrence10 (a t) mac (d o t) com. Portland, OR. Josh

Oh that’s right! I forgot that the Core permit lets you camp in any zone! That’s perfect - thanks so much for the reminder.

Edit: Did a little more research, and while it's AWESOME that I get to stay in any of the zones, I'm thinking that Core Zone and Stuart climb in this one trip might be a bit ambitious. I'll schedule a Stuart climb, likely from the south, at another time... So, advice on getting to Colchuck Peak from the Core Zone? Is up and over Dragontail realistic, as it appears from a quick glance at the terrain? Thanks in advance, really appreciate the advice so far! --------------- Original post below: --------------- Yes, I searched the forums, and yes I googled it, but thought I'd ask here as well... Does anyone know if there is a route from the Core Zone of the Enchantments to get onto one of the easy routes on Stuart? I think I was looking at coming in from Colchuck Lake and up the Colchuck Glacier area, but I scored Core Zone permits, and would love to not go up and down Asgard to get there. This is for September, so not too much snow, but possible glacier considerations? I am not looking for hard climbing, I'm looking to get to the top. 'Cause, yea... Thanks in advance!

Apologies if this is not the correct forum for asking, but I'm looking to rent or borrow a satellite communication device next week, from 9/5-9/11. Most importantly it would need to reliably RECEIVE texts/calls. If you care, this is for a friend whose wife is 8 months pregnant who really wants to come on a trip with us. I don't know what a reasonable rate would be, but I can promise you it would be taken great care of - we are both very considerate and responsible, even more so with other peoples' gear. We'd also obviously agree to pay for replacement in the event of loss/damage. Thanks, let me know! Best way to reach me is email - jlawrence10 (at) mac.com but I'll try to keep an eye on the forums and my mesages.

Trip: North Sister, Oregon - Southeast Ridge to standard west side ascent Date: 7/31/2017 Trip Report: TLDR: Don't climb this mountain in the summer! So North Sister has been on the list for a while, if only to fill out the "Highest Oregon Cascades" checklist. Good reason, right? Anyway, this climb at this time of season was described to me by people who know as "inelegant" and "not aesthetic." To say the least! 85% of this climb was horrible. And yet, as always, it was totally worth it! We approached from Pole Creek, and camped at tree line (around 6800 feet) down below the Hayden Glacier, maybe a half mile south of the southeast ridge. Delightful camping there. Lots of water, beautiful spot. We left camp around 2:00 AM and headed north to gain the southeast ridge. Nothing fancy, just went north until we hit a flat spot, and then turned left up the ridge toward the mountain. The footing seemed loose getting up there, but we would look back on this footing with very fond memories in the long run. Headed up the southeast ridge. We had read to pass most features on the left (south) and when we did, things were pretty fine. We passed a couple on the right, and things were... not as fine. Scary at times; just loose and exposed, but manageable. It's just SO MUCH LOOSE ROCK AND SAND. Sunrise: View of the east face from the southeast ridge: Eventually the southeast ridge hit the south ridge (hard to say exactly where - it's all a jumble up there) and we headed up the south ridge and made our way to the terrible traverse. Maybe I'm harping on this, but it was SO MUCH LOOSE ROCK. I don't know the technical definition of "scree" or "choss" or any of those, but I'd guess we hit them all. At one moment, this summed up my feelings about the whole endeavor: Got to the traverse, and it looked only semi-terrible. I'd say about 60 yards across, but very steep, very firm, very exposed. Looking north toward the bowling alley, hard to see it all in this pic, as it kind of bends around and away: Rather than opt for the more elegant, traditional run out traverse with our pickets, we headed up the snow to the wall, and went for a less elegant but seemingly safer "moat technique." The moat was big and stable, and we felt good all the way around. Here I'm facing back to the south at my partner: The climb down out of the moat was maybe the sketchiest part of the climb - basically straight down, one foot in the snow and one foot on the rock/gravel/ice/wall, but only about 15 feet until we hit the relatively stable crap right at the bottom entry to the bowling alley. Exiting the moat: The bowling alley was totally dry, and a relative dream to climb at this point. Stable rock, no ice or snow anywhere around or above us, and nothing falling: Solo scrambled up the bowling alley to the plentiful rap slings, then up to the summit ridge, and then to the top! Had the mountain to ourselves all day. (Passed one team around 8500 feet on the southeast ridge in the distant dark, but never saw them again - although where the hell else could they have been going?!) The summit was sunny and literally like 70 degrees, which can be concerning, but given that the only snow and ice on the whole route was the bit on that north facing traverse, we felt ok about it. Rapped down the bowling alley - two fun pitches with good pre-existing webbing/cord in place got us back to the bowling alley exit. Here's the traverse looking south: Opted for the moat exit on the way out as well, and it went fine. Here I am climbing back up into the moat: Then down the (horrible, crappy) south ridge, off the west side this time to the BLESSED snowfields, and then a nice long hike on delightful snow all the way back to camp. I LOVE CAMP. -------- Here's a pretty fun video of the descent from the summit to summit ridge. Looks WAY sketchier due to the angle and GoPro "fisheye effect." This was probably the safest and most secure we felt all day. Gear Notes: Didn't use pickets or ice screw, just used our gear for rappelling the bowling alley, and I think it was well worth it just for that. (If only to bump the "fun factor" from 10% to 15%.) Approach Notes: Southeast ridge may well have been the best way, but when I was actually ON the southeast ridge, I was looking longingly at the snowfield approach to the south ridge, which may have been better. Probably would have been, from our camp. From Pole Creek? Your call. I would just pick a different mountain.

Round River on Koala Rock is fun and so easy that even I could lead it. It has some bolts, but 'requires' a couple gear placements. It's 4 or 5 pitches, so definitely fun for practice, plus you get to the top of a really big rock. Long hike over there, though. I think it might be 5.6 but could be as low as 5.4? That seems pretty damn low though... It does have a bolted option for the last pitch that is 5.8 and pretty fun.

This is an oldie but a goodie: http://www.outdooroddities.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/grizzly_bear_warning_sign.jpg

Great stuff, little bit fisheye but good pics. Thanks!

Any recent reports on North? We're looking at the weekend of July 24th, but I haven't seen anything recent... mtnhippy, did you go up over the 4th?

Alpine or Ice: Viviane stemming the crux on Devil's Kitchen Headwall, Mt. Hood, Oregon.

We did that route last year in July, and really saw no reason to rope up whatsoever. Once you get out above treeline, from what I recall, you ascend through some bowls straight up toward the mountain, then bear right (north) a little to gain the ridge that heads directly up to the saddle between middle and north. At that point you leave any crevasses down to your left on the Hayden itself. We roped up on the way down, mostly for practice, and pitched out the slightly steeper, firmer part on the way up for practice and comfort. You can check out pics here... http://gallery.me.com/jlawrence10#gallery ...if you want. There is a perfect camp site right around 8500 (if I recall correctly, and I might not) as the trees start to thin out. If I can find coordinates I'll send them your way. If you have specific questions, shoot me a PM. Have fun!

Thanks for the report. Saw your lights near the bottom of the chute as I approached Hogsback right around 3:00 or 3:15. Shoulda taken a picture for you. As for the helmet, I wouldn't care and would let someone choose, but if you're climbing on a long rope without any pro it is irresponsible to lead a team without a helmet. One piece of ice knocks you out, you fall past your team and keep going, and take out others below you, next thing you know a Blackhawk is crashing on Hogsback. In other news, did any of the 75 people I passed on the way down Friday morning find a Black Diamond headlamp? It's mine... Thanks!

The advice on gear here is sound. Mostly scrambling with just a few belays. The best tip is to save weight and carry just one 60 meter rope. The rappel method outlined here: http://www.summitpost.org/owen-spalding-var-owen-chimney/160588 ...works great, and isn't as 'tricky' as it sounds. Just go to the far rap station, and keep right (rappeler's or climber's right) as you go down, and there's plenty of rope to get down, untie, and then scramble down.

My team of 5 wanted to go up Rainier via the Emmons two seasons ago, and we were trying to decide guide or no guide. We decided to spring for crevasse rescue courses with Timberline Mountain Guides, do a bunch of practice on the mountain and in the garage, and manage our own prep and gear. Best decision we could have made. We made the summit, and I had to climb out of a crevasse at 12,000 feet after a snowbridge fell out from under me. The team arrested the fall, anchored my climb out, and we set up a belay to get everyone around the now-trickier crossing. The sense of accomplishment was enormous, having done it on our own, and we came away with a ton of knowledge and experience that we wouldn't otherwise have had. Good luck, whatever you decide to do. PS - I know Timberline Mountain Guides out of Bend has been permitted to go up Emmons on Rainier before. They're awesome and would be worth at least a call.

These are both "just on Hood" but I like 'em anyway. Viviane on Devil's Kitchen Headwall in January, and me near the summit in June.

My buddy and I are heading to Vegas in early December for a half climbing, half gambling and drinking trip. We're gonna hit up Red Rocks and while we have a guidebook (Red Rocks, a Climber's Guide by Jerry Handren), it's pretty thick and overwhelming. Anyone familiar enough with the place to point us in the right direction? We're likely looking for easy-ish multi-pitch climbs. Maybe up to 5.8/5.9 if bolted, closer to 5.6/5.7 if trad. Any areas in the book we should be eyeballing? We might also want to hit up some shorter sport or even top rope climbs so my buddy can test himself a little, up to 5.10/5.11. Any thoughts you have are much appreciated!

Some friends and I did the Kautz Glacier about three days before that (August 25th/26th). We took the Moraine trail off of Dead Horse trail, but stayed a little high and crossed the Nisqually right through the crevassed area. It wasn't actually too bad, but a better place to cross would definitely have been down lower, where it's icier and dirtier and more firm. Didn't identify many objective hazards until we went up "the fan" on the other side, and even then, very minimal. Overall, a really fun route. Didn't see another soul or party the entire time, including on the summit (11:00 AM). Well, we could see across to Camp Muir, which just made us more happy about the route we had chosen. For pictures, you can hit up http://gallery.me.com/jlawrence10 and see some pics from our trip. Keep thinking I'm gonna write up a trip report, but I guess I'm not gonna...

From the looks of a recent north side TR, the Cooper Spur route is still in. I'd like to get on it, but wouldn't mind having someone at least in the vicinity, and would especially prefer a car shuttle after a SS descent. Anyone willing to share a last minute climb, or shuttle? Shoot me an email: jlawrence10@mac.com. We'd have to get out of town pretty soon, and I move fairly fast, aiming for the summit before the sun hits.

If your goalie, Green, had tried to hand anyone's asses to them today, said asses would have ended up in the back of the English net. U S A!

Yep, that was me. Glad the pic turned out. Sorry I killed your battery. Heh... This one is kind of cool, too. Shows a little more depth... Crazy how the shadow changed sizes or apparent distance. Almost knocked me off the north side when I saw it.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Pearly Gates, right side Date: 5/15/2010 Trip Report: Real quick update on Pearly Gates, right side. Solid and obvious bootpack all the way up Hogsback and across to the bottom of the gates, with no sign of the 'schrund for now. The bootpack takes you to the "crux," a fairly minor ice bulge about 5 feet tall, with a crazy fin of ice cutting into it from above and to the side. (Watch your head and pack.) This required some solid axe and foot placements, but was never uncomfortable. Above that, more bootpack straight up to the summit ridge. I would guess I saved myself at least 45 minutes from Hogsback by heading straight up through the gates. I looked up into the left gate, but it didn't look to inviting. Very jumbled and kinda steep. After hearing about the ice bulges in the gates, it was actually a little disappointingly easy... The biggest challenge was worrying about the folks behind me following me blindly up, not knowing which route they were after or where they were. Amazing morning up there, hit the ridge right as the sun came up over the horizon. Didn't carry a good camera, but snapped this iPhone pic of my shadow and halo atop the mountain shadow out above the Old Chute. Gear Notes: One axe. Probably wouldn't have used a second tool even if I'd carried one. Not really any ice to speak of, mostly soft snow with deep ace plants for self belay. Approach Notes: Bum a cat ride so you can be the third one to top out and the first one back down. Good snow all the way.

I could definitely climb some serious vertical, maybe even overhanging, ice... ... in 1/6 gravity. And only in 1/6 gravity.

Yep, found that thread about 30 minutes after I dropped off at Carbide Saw. Doh! Looks like he does awesome work for a good price. Next time for sure. Thanks!

In case anybody stumbles across this thread looking for a way to get screws sharpened, I'll let y'all know that I took mine to Carbide Saw in Portland, on SE Division at 41st, and they took a look and said they'd hand-sharpen them to get the teeth razor sharp, for $6 a screw. Sounds good to me! Don't have 'em back yet, so not sure about the work, but I'm optimistic.