Patrix

Planning a trip to the northside routes of Baker and Shuksan next month. I hoped to use Silver and Douglas Fir campgrounds but they're booked up. Any recommendations on dispersed camping spots along Mount Baker highway WA-542? Ideally, some place near Heliotrope Ridge TH and Lake Anne TH.

What I'll be buying depends on the routes, which won't be decided till a couple days out. I'll likely just need a 24" picket. Plus, it'll just be good to know where a shop is in case something gets left at home by accident.

Yeah that's the REI I was looking at. Marmot Mountain Works seems to be pretty accessible to the highway while we travel north. I like FF and 2nd Ascent but trying to avoid the city.

Are there any gear shops around Seatac? For an upcoming trip I'll be flying in a few hours before my partner and will have some last minute items to pick up. I see there's an REI nearby but a climbing specific store would be great. Steve

Wow...setting up camp in those winds must be TOUGH! Sorry you didn't make it to the summit. My brother and I plan to climb Denali next year and camp construction in high winds is one aspect I'm a bit uneasy about. I live in the Southeast US and have no idea how to train/prepare for that. I guess I just need to go camping during the most awful weather forecast I can find.

On the Kautz direct in '08 our guide used a MegaMid. Our 11K camp was sorta exposesd and it was very windy. The 'Mid held up with the help of some snow walls. However the guide said he got no sleep because he was worrying about it so much.

Thanks EVERYONE! This is really useful informain that I wouldn't find in any guide books. It seems like there's a spot in just about every direction around the Seattle. The weather at the time will probably be the determining factor for us.

DPS, Rob--Thanks for the useful information. The main reason I was considering Vantage was because it's right off of I-90; After we do the tourist thing in Seattle, we're heading East to Montana, though it sounds like it'll be worth the extra driving time to go to Leavenworth instead. The way you guys talk about Vantage, it kinda reminds me of a crag local to me (Georgia) called Lost Wall; it's climbable, but kinda crappy and incredibly inferior to T-Wall, which isn't much further away. -Steve

My GF and I will be in Washington in early July and wanted to get in some climbing. We're looking for mostly easy-moderate single pitch trad and sport (.5-.9). Vantage & Leavenworth seem like the best bets. What's it like climbing in these areas in July? Vantage looks like I desert so I'm guessing it may be advised to avoid. Also, any recommendations on guidebooks would also be helpful. Thanks. -Steve

Was just in Hyalite a week and a half ago. Genesis 1 is a good choice if you get a late start. It's only about 15 minuetes form the parking lot and most of the routes can be top roped. WI3-WI4 Twin Falls was also in and much fatter than G1. Definitely worth the hour or so hike. Mostly WI3. Check out this page for up to date conditions. http://montanaice.com/forum/ice-conditions/hyalite

I stayed at the Comfort Inn on the north side of town about a week and a half ago. Cost about $70 total for two beds. It was more than sutible for a couple of smelly climbers and the contentinal breakfast was pretty good--eggs, sausages, ceral, pastries, etc.

Cale, Kurt, thanks for the information guys. I appreciate it!

Does anyone have a good explanation or pic of the over the shoulder technique for stashing an ice tool? I'm pretty sure I have the right idea, but since it's a rather sharp object hanging around my neck, I'd like to be certain. Had to resurrect this topic--was the only usable hit in my google search.

Did you loose a piece of a crampon during the climb? I was up there on Monday and found it at the top of the Pearly Gates. I don't know how to describe the piece but I'm sure you'd know if you were missing it.

Thanks for all the info, guys. Getting excited about the trip!

I've never climbed Hood. I've heard that some people are taking the old route but I didn't think that *most* were doing it. I figured I'd assess the situation when I got there, but if the old route is the way most people are safely reaching the summit, I may just make it my intended route from the start. Thanks for the tip.

If weather is good, I'm planning on climbing Hood during the first weekend of February via the Hog's Back route. Just wondering if there's any newly develpled obstacles or alternate routes, or--and I don't mean to put it lightly--if things are relatively straight forward; Up the Hog's Back and through the Perly Gates. I know things can pretty much change on a dime this time of year, but any tidbit of information, suggestions, or opinions would be helpful

This is perfect! Thanks guys

In January or February I plan on climbing Mt Hood from the SS Hog's Back route. Can anyone recommend a campsite open this time of year or any cheap (<$100) hotels near Timberline Lodge and Government Camp? I'm trying to keep this trip as low budget as possible. Thanks! -Steve

Thank you for the recommendatins!

So where can I get a good meal and a cold one after coming down from Rainier??

Pics of the south side? Would you mind posting a few?? I plan on being there next weekend.