mzamp

Charlet Moser M10s: $40 plus shipping: Torn anti-bot but front points still have some life in them. Grivel G14: $40 plus shipping: Front points still sharp but worn.

thanks. we will buy the anti-bail for them. If they perform well she will also use them on Gannett in August. Hopefully it's not too steep getting past the schrund.

Actually they are the step in ones...not that it probably matters too much.

Anyone have experience with these? My wife just scored a free pair. almost 1kg lighter than her steel M10s. We are headed to climb Rainier, but I am worried this won't be sufficient. Although we are just doing the DC route and not any steep ice. TIA for any info.

I am in the planning stages for a 2019 Denali ascent with a group. I own the Acrux, but have only used them ice climbing, a cold day on mt hood, and a warm day on Rainier. I was wondering if anyone has experience or knowledge if they will handle the cold temps of Denali? I sure would like to use these as opposed to my old plastic boots.

We started at 9am and even then we were sweating like pigs. We made it to Muir in 5.5 hours climbing at a leisurely pace with ample breaks as one of our 4 was slow.

When you book a flight from out of town you roll the dice and cross your fingers. Unless the conditions are an absolute "no go", you give it a shot. Several people have told me a 3 day is much more enjoyable. The problem is, day 2 is looking like the better weather day and I would hate to pass on that window. We are keeping our options open and will have supplies to last 3 days (4 if absolutely necessary). BTW - due to schedules, we are braving the crowds and going this weekend. Should be a good battle of patience.

LOL We already have permits reserved so that is not an issue. We need to get fuel and it looks like the store opens at 7am, so we would be looking at about a 8am start to CM. But if the 3 hours is accurate then even a 9am start will get us there at noon. Plenty of time to melt snow, set up camp, and people watch.

What are "typical" times for reaching Camp Muir? I was thinking it would take about 5-6 hours at a moderate pace with ample breaks. Are there any issues with getting a late start (around 11:00am) or should we try and get started earlier? We get in late the night before, so I was thinking the extra sleep/rest was more important than an early start? Thoughts?

Thanks for the responses. Confirmed my suspicions. New Questions: - Would skipping Muir and camping at Ingraham flats make for a slightly easier summit day? Or is it not worth carrying the heavier pack up higher? - No avi gear, but I assume still bring a team shovel for making camp/building wind blocks? Thanks again.

I attempted the Kautz route about 6 years ago, only to get turned back from white-out/blizzard conditions at about 13,800 feet. This time I am planning the overly crowded DC route to help improve my chances of finally gaining the summit. - I know there are always trade-offs but what is the thought of not carrying avi gear (beacon/shovel/probe) assuming we won't climb unless conditions are favorable? - Wands, do we need them? Isn't the route well marked by the guiding companies? - 2 or 3 days? Do most descend all the way to Paradise on summit day or stay in camp for another night? I was planning day 1 to Muir, day 2 Summit with the option of day 3 summit based on weather. So we would have enough food and fuel to spend up to 3 nights on the mountain. - Any other advice or hints to increase our chances of success? Thanks!

Thanks for the great advice. We had an excellent day climbing. It was extremely windy early on, but as the sun rose the wind died down. The hogsback was in prime condition and booted in for an easy ascent sans rope. My two rookie companions ROCKED it! With all the stuff we do, I should have known the exposure wouldn't bother them...but you never know when you put someone on ice/snow wearing crampons. The pic is of them topping out of the left PG.

Awesome! Thanks. I figured that was the case. I have to stop reading so much. Kinda like when I read how scary the knife edge was on Katahdin and we crossed the whole ridge wondering where it was. lol

Based on the good weather last week and the fact I saw a line of climbers on the webcam, the south side route is getting done. Anyone care to publish a trip report? Anyone? Beuller? Also I have some rookie questions (for a climb May 5th or 6th): 1)Is it at all helpful to wear microspikes on the lower slopes or just go sans-traction until the crampons are needed? 2)I was planning on bringing rope/protection in case anyone gets sketched out so we can do a running belay. If we do, about how many pickets would be good? Is 3 sufficient? 3)Does it ever happen that climbers can go up fine, but get sketched out on the way down, requiring a rappel to be set up for them? 4)Bring Beacon/Probe/Shovel? Or leave them at home? Thanks!

I am looking for info on climbing San Jacinto via Snow Creek. If anyone has approach description or GPS tracks that would be great. Also if anyone has climbed it recently, if they have conditions report. Thanks

Woot woot! Dates are set. We more or less let airfare dictate which weekend to go based on the cheapest rates. It more or less split the difference between April/May by being the first weekend in May. Now to just cross my fingers for a good window and relatively mellow crowds. We scheduled a Friday climb with Saturday being a our backup day.

I would like to get some input from the more experienced in this group. I was planning a trip with my GF next May up the Old Chute. However, some friends are headed to the Columbia gorge in early April for a running race. I thought it would be fun to move our trip up so we could join them. So... Are late May versus early April conditions drastically different. Meaning would one give us a much better chance of success over the other regarding typical weather and snow conditions? Will the route likely be booted in in April? Some Background: I have some alpine experience (Rainier Kautz route, Athabasca, Mt Temple, Sir Donald, Bugaboo Spire), but consider myself a beginner for leading alpine climbs due to snow/glacier travel, not rope skills. She is a beginner in alpine climbing. She has very little experience on snow limited to a few training outings we have done in Colorado (self arrest, roped glacier travel). She does ice climb, knows self rescue from our canyoneering and we did a early summer ascent of Whitney that required traction. Thanks for any and all info...

I was tossing around the idea of a trip out there late August/early September to climb the Mittellegi ridge route of the Eiger. My plan was to hire a guide since my gf has no interest in this climb. If I go, would this be something that interests you?

Looking for any current conditions for Athabasca before I head there this weekend. Looks like it may have some fresh snow up top.

Thanks and keep it coming. I have lots of stuff to try now. My skin on the feet is plenty tough enough...at least until the sweat softens them. I trail run and hike on a regular basis for great distances. I only have a problem with the steel shanked boots that don't flex. Athletic tape and duct tape are part of my aresenal, but in the past I have waited until the pain starts before applying and like someone posted...it's too late. I definately have too much heel slippage so getting the boots fitted with pads will be my first objective to eliminate the slip.

Thanks - all suggestions will be tried and any others are welcome. Trying several on at a store: That's the problem with living in AZ. Even REI only caries hiking boots not mountaineering boots. But that will be on my "to do" list the next time I visit CO, OR, or WA

Help! I am fairly new to mountaineering - started 2 years ago. I have an issue with getting severe blisters on my heels when wearing my boots. First Boot - La Sportiva Nepals, used these on Rainier and blistered before I hit the glacier. Sold these and went with plastics Second Boot - Koflach plastic, used these on Athabasca. These seem to work better as the inner boot moves with the foot. But still got blisters. Third Boot - Scarpa Summits, used these last weekend doing a winter summit in CO. Same results as the Nepals. One thing I noticed is my socks are soaked from sweat. I am using smart wool type socks. All the boots I have tried have been used boots purchased on CC. Living in AZ and having limited use for a alpine boot I went the cheaper used route. I have not tried a dual sock. I am wondering if a smaller boot will prevent the heel from slipping, but I am worried about the toes being cramped. I thought about a larger boot the caould move the heel away from rubbing on the boot. I am ready to purchase new boots if this would fix the problem, but now I am worried that I will drop $500 and still have blister issues. Suggestions? Tips? Anyone else have this issue???? Thanks

I have a feeling we will be back next year. My climbing partner has wants to bag this one. Hopefully Edith Cavell will be accessible by next year as that is on our list as well. And then Skyladder on Andromeda would be the trifecta for our trip. The one thing I am sure about...I need to train harder. Those routes are big and long.

Trip: Mount Temple - fail! - East Ridge IV 5.7 Date: 8/15/2012 Trip Report: Got up at 4:30 and was on the trail by 5:45 which was supposed to be a clear forecast. Lot's of moisture in the air from the night time rain with a low layer of clouds. We headed up the avalanche slope disregarding the 4 person minimum rule. The slope was steep and loose. Looking back down the slope, it looked like it would be a beautiful day. The clouds then started to move in, but we were staying above them. At the top of the avalanche slope we worked our way left of the butress. It got steeper from here, but at least we were off the avalanche scree. It is mostly class 4 scrambling with maybe a few easy 5th class moves. The clouds helped eliminate the exposure factor. At times route finding was difficult. Lots of loose ledges and you cannot tell for sure where the route heads upward. It would be easy to climb yourself into some harder 5th class moves. There are lots of cairns you just need to keep an eye out for them. Holds are positive, just double check that they are solid. Finally you make your way to the first pitch which is just a little step with some exposure to your sides. This is my partner looking at the little step. After the little step a little more scrambling brings you to the big step. The clouds were very thick and my partner was nervous about finding the correct exit in the black towers. So we decided to wait and see if the clouds would lift. After about an hour we made a team decision to retreat. Of course halfway down the clouds finally cleared. :-( Here is a shot of the 4th class stuff we climbed up in the fog. Much scarier downclimbing. Luckily we found a few rap stations which we gladdly utilized. Had some great views of Moraine Lake. The water looks fake. Here is a shot from further North up the highway. Temple is on the left. And a tourist shot at Lake Louise. It was dissapointing not to summit, but you just have to remind yourself that the mountain will be there next year. Gear Notes: This is a mixed route so you have to carry your ice gear (pons & axe, and a couple screws). We did not carry any pickets. Unfortunately we didn't climb high enough to use the gear we carried. Approach Notes: Bring along the route notes. I think there are several options, but we were always questioning if we were on route or just following the cairns of some other lost soul.

I have a pair of Petzl M10 crampons with a wire toe bail. These worked great on my La Sportiva Nepal boots. However, the boots gave me blister so I just bought a pair of Koflach plastic boots. At first attempt at fitting the crampons, the toe bail doesn't fit into the toe welt. I would think these crampons would fit better on the plastics. Do I need a different toe bail?