mtnstoke

Hey Matt! haha! Too funny -- obviously we know each other already, since we've climbed in the gym together!

Absolutely! Love them White Mountains! Nice work on Ptarmigan! A couple of my buddies did it 2 years ago. Been wanting to get on it myself, but keep opting for Tetons/Sierra adventures where the weather is more stable! But was just out Rainier-way a couple weeks ago to take a group of first-timer friends up the Disappointment Cleaver route (and got a rather nasty summit day!). You guys climb at MetroRock by any chance? Always looking for more local partners from time to time. I can be reached at nerdom AT yahoo dot com. Les

NICE WORK! Holy shit dude, I'm a Somerville, MA guy, too! (Davis Square).

Summitting ANY route on Rainier is a notable accomplishment, don't let anybody tell you otherwise, so congratulations! And kudos for the really nice pictures!

man, really nice TR. congrats on the FA.

Great TR, proud send!

Climbed it on Friday, July 13th - whichever is the right side couloir. Was a bit of a schwack getting to it, because of the snow melt (we parked at Reflection Lake (I think that's what it's called?). The left side couloir was discontinous at several points at the bottom, while the right side was in good shape. Had to do some interesting rock scrambling around the backside of the peak, but in the end bailed on the last 300 feet of scrambling to the summit, in favor of making the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet at Paradise Lodge. :-)

Killer TR! Congrats on a proud send!

Way to go, Doug and Big Wall* (hey, Keith!)! I spoke with Scott and Scottie, and they were stoked about getting that route! Wish I coulda made it out there this year. Scott mentioned they ran into some German dude at Schurman who shot pics of them on route from high camp with a big-a$$ telephoto lens - guy showed him the pics on his camera, Scott said they're killer. They're supposed to be on Forbidden Peak's West Ridge today. -Les * edited - haha! Sorry, Keith, I inadvertently typed "Big Head" instead of Big Wall, I think because I was thinking back to when Little John (Scott's wedding, maybe) was referring to you as Big Head and cracking us up. whoops!

SWEEEEET PIC!!!!!

It was pretty chilly up on Snowdome yesterday, despite the sunny weather. Snow was firm, but yielded to edges. Lower on the glacier was a different story, very soft by afternoon. I was drooling at the upper headwall of Sunshine, climber's left of Horseshoe Rock looked like a perfect line to descend. Only one 'schrund mid-glacier to avoid and nothing but perfection otherwise. Not nearly as steep as it seems either (35-40 degrees maybe). If it doesn't dump a ton in the next few days I'd say get it, as there has been significant consolidation in the last week's warming/cooling cycle. You would be hard pressed to find such conditions in June again. Fantastic! Can't wait! I'm on the East Coast (where we had a spectacular season, especially up on Mt. Washington, i.e., Tux, Gulf of Slides, Great Gulf, etc.), so it's real helpful to get some timely conditions reports from those of you out that way. Heard on NPR this morning that the North Cacades are expecting another dump?

OJ: Reports said they got 14" or more at Timberline this weekend? Like to hear your observations. Ranger office told me today snow levels are down to 6k again today, with more snow expected today. Did you assess avy conditions? Heading out that way Wed-Sun and just hoping to gather a little beta before I do. Planning on summiting via Sunshine Route and boarding down. Any recent conditions info (aside from the pics, which are great, btw) would be much appreciated!