spionin
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Posts posted by spionin
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This is only for 30 days. It's Whole30 not Whole365.
this is the issue i have with this junk.
most dietary changes fail to produce long-term results not because they don't work, but rather because the participants impose stringent enough restrictions upon themselves to actually make these changes permanent. the whole mentality of a "diet" is that it's a short-term, crash course type of havoc you wreck on your body to fit into a dream outfit [before inevitably bouncing back to the original weight]. even the JAMA study is only 4 weeks - this only promotes the false impression that short-term weight loss is something to strive for.
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Heading to the Palisades down here shortly for some good alpine ice (hopefully)...Clyde Couloir and the U & V notches
you lucky sierra-ites!
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Just the other day my 8 month pregnant wife and I
Holy Crap! Congratulations old man! Welcome to the club, it's an exhausting but wonderful one!
sorry for the off-topic comment, matt...
ditto on the congrats, Sol! super cool!
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very nice, detailed report!
looks like you got a little bit of practice climbing that glacier ice after all!
well done!
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nice, way to brave the extra approach, too! looks like there aren't too many people out!
i made this image from a gps track a few years ago, i think it shows nicely how much of the mountain you actually cover (so you guys did that in a day PLUS 6 more miles of the road you had to travel - nice work, no question)
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daaaaang, ryan. you looked so chilled out friday night, wouldn't have guessed you had some awesome adventures in the works. inspired by gratuitous consumption of prosecco?
great job!
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seems like this primer does a good job at reviewing some casein and whey basics AND cites a number of articles from reputable peer-reviewed journals: http://www.nutritionexpress.com/showarticle.aspx?articleid=787
the primary literature likely has the numbers for actual mass of proteins that the study participants took in.
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wow. looks phenomenal.
good job, guys, and thanks for posting the report!!
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we have thoroughly enjoyed these for the past few years. alas, did the dress-up st helens ski this time.
nice to see that people had a blast yet again!!
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when i bought mine, i contacted this guy and he was very helpful:
James Good
Warranty and Returns Manager
Petzl America
Work 801.926.1500 x 7271
Toll Free 877.807.3805 x 7271
jgood@petzl.com
www.petzl.com
good luck.
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Phew, I was worried you weren't going to slow down at all V. I was envisioning you with a BCA airbag strapped to your front still sending. I'll be working mostly back at the UW starting in July, will still have that 1 day a week...
yup-yup!
but really, it's just a 15-lb training weight. no biggie
see you around!
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nice report, kellie!
i like that the writing style seems to be following the snack-type style of the food you apparently consumed for the past month.
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wow. did you even go to school?
looks awesome, z, can't wait for your return (read: doug needs a skiing partner, i'm out of commission for the season)!
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great report, and looks like you cruised the route despite all the little "setbacks"! well done!
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nice job, jesse and danimal!
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nice! looks like quality snow!
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wow, i seem to have missed a lot. oh well, next time
thanks for the beta, i added it to the TR.
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thanks, guys!
shapp- i remember looking for placements (for those supplemental TCUs), but couldn't find anything. maybe i missed the opportunity from being in the "slab climbing zone", just trying to desperately reach the next bolt
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Trip: spring mountain - romantica and other side of the tracks
Date: 5/16/2010
Trip Report:
kind of a belated TR... the area definitely deserves more traffic for the long routes and great, varied rock!
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Rafael_H and i climbed at spring mountain crag in darrington area. thanks to mattp for the packet of hand-drawn topos!
we arrived on friday and scored a primo parking/camping spot next to a river. despite our fears there were no mice or anything else annoying. we saw a few bats at night.
on saturday we climbed the awesome and highly rated other side of the tracks (5p: 5.10a, .9, .10b, .9, .9). rafael took the two crux pitches, and i mopped up the 9s.
p1 - wavy. looks dirty from the bottom, but is totally fine on the ascent.
p2 - our fave pitch on this route. cruiser, run-out. starts out on a slick, plated slab and goes out onto an exposed, bare arete.
p3 - crux. slick, with sloped, tapered ribs and minimal feet. steep, reachy and pumpy. lots of funky chickenhead features.
p4,5 - cruiser. we initially thought of simuling, i started skipping bolts, but then realized we'd have too much drag. the end is a white, moss-covered granite flake with a sweet undercling crack. there's a strip where the moss was removed to the right. it'll lead to the final anchor. sorry, no photo of this particular part.
stoke!
gear notes: it's possible to lead the route on draws only. however, here's additional gear beta:
several horizontal placements on P1,
a few key TCU placements in pods on the upper part of P2,
Not much additional on P3,
A few placements on P4, especially if you take the slightly easier left hand version of around the crux
P5, several placements from .5 to 2" or so
When climbing this route, if you feel the next bolt is way far and it isn't 5.6 terrain, look hard, there is likely very good natural pro to be had, though you might have to garden a little to find it.
on sunday we climbed the 6-pitch romantica (5.9, .8+, .10b, .10a, .9, .9)
p1 - slabby, but fairly straight-forward, very nice start. long - 155 ft.
in the middle of the pitch was a short headwall that requires a cool mantling move. i was about 15 feet above my last piece of pro, so i put in a black alien into a thin, dirty crack. reached up to grab the mondo holds for a pullup and saw a bolt. so, technically, no gear was required.
animal
p2 - the rib on the right looks good, but isn't. i ripped off a chunk. stay on the face, climb the thin, balancy ribs.
this pitch brings you up onto a large shelf. you have to move the belay up to the base of the next pitch. to the right is this beautiful white, overhanging wall
p3 - follows a series of pumpy unlock-the-sequence moves up a face next to a waterfall
i found a friend while belaying
the rock is amazing. difficult and very steep.
p4 - follows next to another waterfall. here's rafael leading in a shower stall.
looking down
p5,6 - starts cruiser, and then comes up to this steep, disconcerting dihedral made of charcoal-black stone with a series of sidepull ridges. this is where i lost my shit and had to back off the lead. thanks to rafael for finishing up.
exposed
Gear Notes:
rafael used a yellow, a green, and a red c4 on p4 of romantica.
we used a single 60m to climb, and had a 7mm, 60m rap line.
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yessirSpionin - Post a TR and more photos,
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sweet!
Rafael_H and i did romantica and other side of the tracks a while back. SO GOOD!
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wow, it looks WARM for the weekend. we skied around that area last sunday, and it was a good 10 degrees colder than what's predicted for next sat/sun. just saying.
the snow was properly cornified by late morning, so would probably make for difficult climbing. there was definitely a lot of debris that moved in the few days prior, and we saw evidence of previous slides. here's a pair of pics from tooth: the large slide looks like it came from a snow deposit that slid off the shelf. you can see the fracture in the remainder of the deposit.
be safe. good luck.
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Only put screws in water ice so far, how much comfort does the glacial ice give with protection? Seems like you could just push them in, but I speak from lack of experience. Similar hold?
thanks, burchey!
indeed, the quality of the screws matters, b/c that's how you have to make the anchor on top of the glacier - no trees to rap off of
the surface tends to be quite baked and ends up getting covered with graupel-y, rough ice chunks. here's a representative picture from mt baker in august:
but the ice underneath is incredibly dense (sometimes you have dig deep to get to it). if you ever climb glaciers at higher altitudes you see very hard, bulletproof stuff. like this:
b/c of how it forms, it doesn't tend to dinnerplate like some WI. so even on the solid stuff you'll get pretty localized fracturing.
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i made a complete gear list after our trip up lib ridge on july of 2010. i don't run particularly warm, and was very happy with all the gear i brought. i opted for hardshell layers (both top and bottom) b/c of multiple days on the mountain. not only did they weigh less, but there was never any concern about having to dry stuff.
hope this helps! https://viewer.zoho.com/docs/bdv7A
[TR] Elephants Perch - The Fine Line/Sunrise book 7/3/2012
in Idaho
Posted
those are some seriously beautiful pictures!
looks like an amazing trip!!