spionin
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Posts posted by spionin
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my advisor got his ph.d. in chemistry at the university of vermont:
an hour to smuggler's notch
two hours to lake willoughby
less than two hours to adirondacks (NY)
two hours to franconia notch (NH)
...people who can drive in the snow.
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death picnic is still in good shape. p1 is same as three weeks ago, but p2 is MUCH more sun-affected. decent hooking, but some pockets are less stable.
beta tip: on this go i followed advice from wayne's TR and made the belay one tier higher. it had much better ice for an anchor, took out the steepest part of p2, made transition easier, and offered a more stable stance.
Friedrich on p2:
"banquet" looks more "death prison camp lunch".
looks like the route got some traffic in the past few weeks. if you were on it, and used my ropes (raps, aiding, whatever), please let me know. they look alright, but i need to know how much additional wear they got. thanks.
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got em.
thanks for the offers of help, everyone.
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i plan to go up this saturday, since the weather is finally looking good.
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thanks, guys. i'm planning to take the difficult way up
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jeff - awesome climb, congrats!
sweet pics, bigeo!
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thanks for the update, and pictures.
huge, huge bummer about the person who fell. he is a good friend and a really solid climber, and i hope he recovers quickly.
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maybe not entirely applicable, but here's my full gear list from july 2010 lib ridge climb: https://viewer.zoho.com/docs/bdv7A
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great photos, lunger! looks exposed!
i think climbing in ski boots is a very useful skill. i would love to not have to carry two pairs of boots whenever i decide to do ski approaches.
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cool!
sounds (and looks) like all pitches were full-value. love that!
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yeah... i know. i wasn't been able to get out there this weekend.
i'm sort of vacillating - it's not a long ski in, but there's that funnel to get to the col that would be a great terrain trap, and with high avy conditions i'm just not sure it's worth it. my hope is that my super-dry dragonfly ropes aren't affected too much by the snowcover. at least there isn't going to be much temp variation.
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wow - glad to hear your rig didn't fly all the way off road!
sounds like an amazing trip!
...and that cornice pic is really impressive.
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thanks for the kind words, guys!
thanks to sepultura for early beta, to wayne for the previous report, and again - jody, for risking getting out with someone he hasn't climbed with before.
Now, to distract: Has Death BANQUET been climbed? anyone know?
you probably took some photos of your own, but i snapped a few extra in case people were interested:
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Trip: table mountain - death picnic
Date: 1/13/2012
Trip Report:
on friday we caught the last of the high pressure and climbed death picnic (2p, wi5) on the north end of table mountain.
my partner, jody, had spent the past few years living and climbing in jasper before recently relocating to squamish. he turned out to be a totally chill, nice dude, and a super solid climber.
the weather was very nice, snow was rather powdery and light (it had been consistently cold and clear).
shuksan:
at the saddle:
death banquet (left) and death picnic (right):
jody approaches through steep snow:
the start of the route was very blobby. these are probably the size of my head, and it felt like i was trying to clear ice roofs. i took a breather, almost gave up on the lead, but jody convinced me to look around and see whether i could find an alternative way up. i moved right to a thinner, but blob-less ice, and passed the section. thanks for the encouragement, man!
the route felt pretty strenuous and consistently steep. a lot of the ice was chandeliered or thin. but overall, was mostly protectable and fun!
jody follows p1:
leads p2:
p2 was relentlessly steep, but the ice was more consistent, and even offered some hooks. it finished with some loose, overhanging snow. we established an anchor at small trees on the summit, and were able to get down with a single rap using two 70m ropes (had about 1/2 m to spare!). unfortunately, the ropes got badly stuck, and no amount of jumping, flicking, and changing directions helped pull them. it got pitch black, the weather started to worsen, and we had to abandon the ropes.
so... i'm now looking to get back up there in the next few days to try to retrieve them. this will either entail climbing the route again, or trying to get them by descending toward the trees from the summit plateau. please let me know if you are interested in braving the weather and want to carpool.
Gear Notes:
70m ropes good for raps (if they don't get stuck).
Approach Notes:
the approach to the route is straight-forward: start from the heather meadows parking lot and follow the valley (and the well-beaten snowshoe and ski track) toward table's north end. as the valley tapers, go up the herman saddle and turn table's northern point toward the west face.
the approach took us a leisurely 90 minutes car to base of route.
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wow, rolf, look at all them words!
what's next? pictures??
sounds like a great climb!
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great video!
you can just see the guy probably going "damn you, stupid arm!" around 1:55, trying to get a placement
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to heather meadows/baker in the next few days?
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Didja get any pics?
here's a picture of the route
on route
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climbed death picnic today (friday). the route is in excellent shape, and we had an awesome day.
we rappelled the route in a single 70 m stretch (with about 1/2 m to spare), but the ropes got badly stuck.
after trying to free them for a very long time, after it got pitch black and in worsening weather we had to leave the ropes. [yes, i've already made mental jokes about russians having a knack for leaving "fixed ropes" on routes, thanks.]
this sucks, and i need to get the ropes down.
i hate to ask anyone to carry my shit, but if you are planning to climb the route please let me know if you'd be willing to take down the ropes. feel free to use them for descent, provided you can figure out how to free them. there's a piece of webbing around a tree, through which the ropes are threaded. while two people rapped off the tree, i wouldn't necessarily suggest jumaring up with the tree as the only anchor. i'd love to get them back, and i'll do my best to pay you back.
or if anyone is going to heather meadows area in the next few days, please let me know if i can carpool with you/ski out with you (avy potential is supposed to increase, i believe).
thanks! sorry about the ropes, i'll get them down in the next few days. -veronika
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climbed death picnic today (friday). the route is in excellent shape, and we had an awesome day.
we rappelled the route in a single 70 m stretch (with about 1/2 m to spare), but the ropes got badly stuck.
after trying to free them for a very long time, after it got pitch black and in worsening weather we had to leave the ropes. [yes, i've already made mental jokes about russians having a knack for leaving "fixed ropes" on routes, thanks.]
this sucks, and i need to get the ropes down.
i hate to ask anyone to carry my shit, but if you are planning to climb the route please let me know if you'd be willing to take down the ropes. feel free to use them for descent, provided you can figure out how to free them. there's a piece of webbing around a tree, through which the ropes are threaded. while two people rapped off the tree, i wouldn't necessarily suggest jumaring up with the tree as the only anchor. i'd love to get them back, and i'll do my best to pay you back.
or if anyone is going to heather meadows area in the next few days, please let me know if i can carpool with you/ski out with you (avy potential is supposed to increase, i believe).
thanks! sorry about the ropes, i'll get them down in the next few days. -veronika
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tough sends, swimming, and glorious weather... looks amazing!
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would anyone like to give it a try tomorrow (wednesday) or maybe friday (less likely, but i can try to make it work)?
thanks. -veronika
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it looked alive and well last sunday and monday. there were parties top-roping it both days.
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sorry, i didn't mean to put you on a spot!
was just confused about the missing post.
climb/ski, sunday 02/12/12
in Climbing Partners
Posted
in alpental area. might be kind of an exploratory ski tour, might end up with some ice climbing...
let me know if you feel like getting up early and exploring. i'm in seattle. thanks.