Jump to content

spionin

Members
  • Posts

    480
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by spionin

  1. Do you guys think the La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo GTX is more appropriate? What temp range would the normal person find comfortable with either and smartwool mid weight socks?

    i had a great time with these boots on rainier (july 2010), and wore them with lightweight smartwool ski socks. the conditions were far from warm, and the boots were very comfortable and appropriate on this trip. my two partners were wearing LS Nepal Evo and a Vasque boot (can't tell if it was the Ice 9000 or the Super Alpinista) on the same trip.

    the key was to make sure the boots were clean and dry at the end of each day, and i kept them in my sleeping bag overnight. the one person in the group who did not do that ended up with frostbite.

  2. great boots, very good condition. asking $200. i'm in seattle.

    the boot size is approximately women's US7

    the insole measures about 23.5 cm at its longest:

    IMG_0066.JPG

     

    IMG_0086.JPG

     

     

    from manufacturer:

    - The Super Ice boot is designed for mountaineering, glacier travel and ice climbing.

    - Lace lock system enables the boot to be laced up quickly and safely.

    - Inner lining is designed with Dryver®/Primaloft®/Event®.

    - A5 last.

    - Vibram® sole, Triple force midsole.

    - Upper: PU coated Kevlan/Carbon fibers with Suede 2.0/2.2 mm.

    - Weight: 1000 G.

    - *Event® Membrane:*Optimizes the balance between waterproofness and breathability.

    - *Primaloft®:*Composed of ultra-thin fibers of differing diameters which make up a base which is insulating, waterproof, breathable, dries rapidly, elastic and tear resistant.Offers high degree of thermal insulation.

    - *Dryver®:*Lining with sweat absorption properties and are quick drying. Anti-bacterial treatment inhibits the formation of fungi and unpleasant odors.Abrasion resistant.

    - 7.50" shaft height.

    - 14.00" circumference.

     

    IMG_0067.JPG

    IMG_0073.JPG

     

    IMG_0083.JPG

    IMG_0090.JPG

  3. climbed in source lake basin today:

    the telemetry from the past few days suggested pretty cold temps and very little precip. however, there was quite a bit of fresh snow on the ground. it snowed all day, and we could see accumulation at the end of the day. it was warmer in the morning and got colder as the day progressed. bring hardshell and synthetic insulation.

    IMG_0001.JPG

    IMG_0003.JPG

    IMG_0046.JPG

     

    we approached without flotation (not recommended. at least bring gaiters for postholing). huge props to rachel for going all-terrain on the snow and breaking trail through some very wallowy sections.

    IMG_0035.JPG

     

     

    it was REALLY overcast and disorienting this morning (and we knew exactly where to go). make sure you have your bearings.

     

    we first approached source lake line. p2 was too thin for my flavor, thin and chopped up at the bottom. looks like it's gotten quite a bit of traffic, so i'm sure there are some awesome climbers getting on it. i took a few pictures on rappel:

    IMG_0029.JPG

     

    we went right instead and went up the deceptively steep curtain. there were no pick holes, and it was fun and plenty challenging for a warm-up.

    IMG_0012.JPG

    IMG_0018.JPG

     

    we rapped from the top and did a high traverse to flow reversal. very mushy ice on p1. we did a long p1 to the startof the crux curtain, i was able to place 3 screws the entire pitch, most just fell out in the mush.

    IMG_0036.JPG

    IMG_0039.JPG

    IMG_0040.JPG

     

    the belay was a shower stall = i got soaked. the curtain was very mushy in places and sheared a lot. it also had some generous pick holes, which definitely made it easier. super fun moves, but the "ice" was very ...meh and scary in places.

    IMG_0061.JPG

    IMG_0057.JPG

     

    this is my ultra-contrasted photo that's supposed to show how water-logged it is:

    IMG_0058.JPG

     

     

     

     

    awesome day all-in-all!

  4. death picnic is still in good shape. p1 is same as three weeks ago, but p2 is MUCH more sun-affected. decent hooking, but some pockets are less stable.

     

    beta tip: on this go i followed advice from wayne's TR and made the belay one tier higher. it had much better ice for an anchor, took out the steepest part of p2, made transition easier, and offered a more stable stance.

     

    IMG_9887.JPG

    IMG_9899.JPGIMG_9904.JPG

    IMG_9906.JPG

     

    IMG_9909.JPG

    IMG_9920.JPG

     

    Friedrich on p2:

    IMG_9934.JPG

     

     

    "banquet" looks more "death prison camp lunch".

    IMG_9898.JPG

     

     

    looks like the route got some traffic in the past few weeks. if you were on it, and used my ropes (raps, aiding, whatever), please let me know. they look alright, but i need to know how much additional wear they got. thanks.

×
×
  • Create New...