ryanhuetter

The snow in the Sierra Nevada is not looking particularly good for a Trans-Sierra tour, so the lady and I are thinking of heading north for some Smith Rock cragging and local skiing if conditions seem descent. Anybody been up in the Sisters area lately, particularly Tam McArthur Rim? Or info on some of the ski mountaineering descents like Adams right now? Thanks! Ryan

If you fly into Chalten solo and start looking for partners, you are gambling big. You don't want to be working out the kinks of a faulty partnership with some Polish dude you just met 20 pitches up a routes. Trust me... Nepals are probably overkill for routes in the Torre Valley, but for mountain routes like the Whillans on Poincenot, they would be the ticket. I'd bring some Trangos for Torre Valley stuff, and for a lot of the short stuff like Guillamet Mermoz etc.

Hi All, I have a pair of Dynafits I'd like to get mounted, at a shop since I lack any knowledge of the subject, and preferably somewhere close and with a good reputation. I am in Poulsbo- any good shops on the Peninsula/Port Angeles, or is a trip across the water going to be necessary? Thanks for any ideas/input. Ryan

Way proud dude.

RAD, you seem to be getting after it quite a bit in SEKI this year- I'm jealous! Next I want to see a TR climbing Black Kaweah, dipping in Kern hotsprings, and still out by happy hour!

SICK! I was just hiking below the Whaleback about 6 days ago after 3 weeks in SEKI. Good on ya.

Looking for partner(s) for this coming weekend and beyond. Planning on arriving Friday the 15th and sticking around until the 25th. First time to Smith, would be cool to partner up with someone who knows the area. Experienced climber, with all the requisite gear, 5.Fun to 5.Hard. Email ryan dot huetter at hotmail dot com.

Never been. Wondering if the day use fee is in addition to the bivy fee (does it cost $10 a day to climb and camp there?) Thanks.

Sick. Karavshin has been on my radar. Wonder if the Kyrgyz instability from last summer has died down...

Just finished uploading a film of the expedition! Check it out at TURBIO IV EXPEDITION VIDEO!

Hate to do it, but reformatting TRs for a bunch of different website is such a pain! Here is a link to recent backcountry adventure climbing in the heart of the Patagonian wilderness. It was a good time. More photos to come, here is the teaser. www.RyanHuetter.blogspot.com

Somewhere in the upper corners, Tribal Rite

What program did you use to put the vid together?

Nice dude! That heat wave/rain storm weather was bumming me out too! At least you got some varied climbs in.

ain't NOTHIN like the captain!

That was rad! Thanks for putting that together, I really enjoyed it.

Fresh off the presses, a trip report from a recent traverse of the Evolution Range, an immaculate spine of granite 8.5 miles long! Evolution Trip Report It has been a long time goal for me, and after one failed attempt earlier this year, was stoked to get back on it and finish it off. It has had a pretty popular season for the traverse, including Jim Donini and George Lowe (who celebrated his 67th B-Day on the route!). Ryan

What is up dude! nice work down in Chalten, looks like you had way better weather than I did on De la "s"! Keep crushing! And what is up with Brazilians and Oreos for breakfast? That's all my buddy from Curitiba eats too!

bump

I am going to be driving from Seattle to Yosemite around April 10-14. Hope to split gas and maybe driving. pm for more info and contact number. Ryan

Torre Norte Video on Vimeo I am a noob when it comes to computers, so this was a big project for me. Still didn't come out as clean as I hoped, but that's just more incentive to go climb something else and try to make it look cool on video! Enjoy.

Trip: Torres del Paine, Chilean Patagonia - Monzino Route Date: 12/4/2009 Trip Report: Here is a link to a TR from a recent ascent of the Monzino Route (V 5.10) on the North Tower of Paine. Enjoy. North Tower Trip Report [img:center]http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_W0DJiegf0tQ/Sx5zsyy2iYI/AAAAAAAAAik/bCDVOpKkFcI/s1600-h/IMG_0276.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: Lots of bail cord. Approach Notes: Long slog. Bring buffed calves.

We did it in one and a half days. I would wholeheartedly recommend not hauling on this route. Many belays SUCK to haul from and end up with a stuck bag. Would be completely feasible to do this in a push. Andy wasn't up to it though, so took our time. The Dante's thing is a bit exaggerated- I'd give it 3 out of 5 stars. Location is everything though.

What route? Normal East Face 3rd class route? I would expect a lot of snow going from Brainerd/Finger Lakes up to the glacier.

Trip: Yosemite - SW Face Liberty Cap Date: 9/26/2009 Trip Report: Southwest Face of Liberty Cap NOTE: All pictures are available at www.RyanHuetter.blogspot.com But here is the text anyway. With 10 days off in between a couple courses I was working for Outward Bound in the Sierra, I headed into the Park to play on some [little] big walls. My initial plan was to solo Ten Days After on Washington Column, but some major stuck rope issues (scary!) forced me down after my second day on the wall. After a couple days of getting my stuff down and decompressing at the El Cap Bridge with cold Cobras courtesy Ottowa Doug, I teamed up with my buddy from El Portal, Andy Esparza, to go climb a route on Liberty Cap that had always captured my interest. We racked up and hiked up the John Muir Trail, serving as amusement to the parched and dusty tourists who were amazed at the size of our packs (and that they weren't full of beer.) The best part though, was stopping for water along the trail, and several different people, thinking my open haulbag was a garbage can, threw their trash in it! We made it up to the base, fixed a pitch, and went to hang out at a pool below Nevada Falls to relax and fill up our water bottles. The next day came quick, and we started taking care of business pretty early. The second pitch featured a bitchin' 5.9 handcrack, and I got to lead the best pitch of the route, a super steep hook and rivet ladder out a steep corner. The climbing overall was OK- a combination of decent climbing accompanied by some really low quality bush-grovelling. I likened it to Dante's Nine Circles of Hell, as experienced through shrubbery. The mini-epics were plentiful, including me leading a 5.6 chimney/c3 crack when my headlamp suddenly died, and one of Andy's approach shoes taking the plunge off the last pitch, leaving him to hike barefoot back down the trail, but the location was unbeatable. Getting to look over at Nevada Falls all day long, looking at the tourists getting way to close to the edge and screaming, "YER GONNA DIE!!!" was priceless, and topping out and getting to look up into the Little Yosemite Valley was well worth our arboreal labors.