ropegoat

where are you/your gear located?

She sent me a note that indicated she felt like by posting my account, it meant that her report was "not the real deal"- the tone was a little defensive. I didn't mean to incite that sort of response at all, so I figured a quick post here would put it right. Doesn't cost me much, and it's probably worth it to keep on good terms with NPS staff (karma per se, as I will a volunteer ranger on Denali in 3 weeks).

I've emailed Kelly about this and wanted to post this explicitly. In posting my own account here, I intended simply to add first hand information because I was involved in the accident. Kelly felt that I had undermined the integrity of her report- which I had no intention of doing. To put it explicitly- in no way did I intend to debase or undermine the information provided by the park service. I was not contacted, nor did I volunteer my experience and information to the Park Service in advance of their report, thus there was no way to corroborate the different accounts of the accident. I mean no disrespect to the NPS or Kelly.

Both Andy and I were both really pleased with snow conditions as we got on the route. We were quite a bit later than we had intended (missed our alarm), the time of fall was approximately 1130am. Snow conditions were firmer than expected with how much sun had been on the route, and step kicking conditions were solid. Soft styrofoam or softer- crampons were definitely necessary at first, but things softened up while we climbed. Generally two kicks were adequate for solid steps, and there was a mediocre existing boot track that had iced up overnight. It was full sun, and the route had been in full sun for at least 2.5 hours (I'm a little embarrassed I don't know exactly)- we were both surprised at how firm the snow was. As we descended the route did get hot and slushy, but that wasn't until later in the afternoon.

I should have also posted by own condonlences above- I didn't mean to post such a blunt post. I've only become aware of Johnny Copp's contributions to this passion we all share though following the rescue effort. What I've found in learning about him is that his integrity is assured- his work in the mountains is his love for these special alpine places made visible. Even in death, and in the newness of learning his example, the greatest honor we can hope to give him is to carry the example forward. There is a touching note on his character posted on the adventure film festival blog link I posted above.

One more sad post: 6/7/2009 3:30:00 PM June 7, 2009, Boulder, CO—The body found in avalanche debris at 4000 meters on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet), China, has been positively identified as Jonathan “Jonny” Copp, age 35 of Boulder, CO. “Our deepest condolences and love go to all of Jonny’s family and friends—and that list of people is so long. He will be sorely missed, but we celebrate his inspiring and amazing life,” says Robb Shurr, spokesperson for the search effort. Jonny was one of three American climbers on the expedition. The search continues for the other two, Micah Dash (age 32), and Wade Johnson (age 24). The first team of American climbers, Eric Decaria and Nick Martino, have landed in China and should arrive in base camp Monday to coordinate search efforts with the Chinese team already in place. A second team of American climbers, Peter Takeda and Steven Su, are en route to China. “We are deeply grateful to the Chinese climbers and rescue workers who have been doing everything possible on the ground to carry out the search,” says Shurr. A blog with up-to-date information and a fund to help assist in search and rescue efforts have been set up at http://adventurefilm.org/ Please do not contact friends and family at this time due to the sensitive nature of the situation.

I was previously unaware of this thread... My partner and I were ascending the route unroped beneath the guided party at the time of the accident. I was leading, my partner (Andy) was about 15 steps back. We had just finished traversing to meet the chute and were moving up along the rock finger that outlines the chute, when the party fell. Our intent had been to move past the rock finger and allow the guided party to continue their descent past us and then continue up the chute. I just got off the phone with my Andy and he and I recount the incident differently than described above. Both of us recall the same thing- although I had limited perspective due to being dug into the snow slope very intensely. As we ascended we noticed the guided party moving much more quickly than previously when they were higher on the route. They were definitely travelling roped together, but at the point we could see them, it was not clear if they were actively belayed, or simply downclimbing while roped together. From our perspective, a female client was first, then the guide, and then another male client. Immediately before the fall, the party kicked off some ice, and Andy yelled for me to cover. Following the ice, he yelled again and told me to dig in. I heard, but did not see a body slide past me. Their rope snagged on my backpack briefly, and the second member of their party hit me full on. The their member followed shortly and glanced off me just to the left. I immediately looked down to determine if they needed assistance. It looked like the woman had fallen first, followed by the guide, followed by the other client. The guide and second clinet arrested the fall and immediately placed a picket. The woman was somewhat (15-25') lower on the slope than the guide. Andy and I estimated the total distance on the fall to be at least 200', 400' does not sound excessive, esp. if this considers linear distance travel rather than vertical distance. They declined our assistance, Andy and I checked each other out and continued up the route. Upon descending the route, the guided group was resting at the base of the route. In addition to the woman having a sprained ankle, the guide had cut his pants and there was a significant amount of blood on his leg. Another party had already gone down the glacier to get assistance. After trying my cell phone (the guide had left his at their bivy site), they declined further assistance, and we continued down the glacier. I was very lucky not to be pulled off the mountain. While I don't doubt that NPS rangers in this case did the best job they could to determine the facts of the incident, Andy and I are both somewhat confused by the description above as it does differ from our perspective. Andy was able to move out of the way and view the accident with out being a part of it. I'm not sure how much that necessarily "helps", but it is a first hand account. I sincerely hope for the well being of everyone involved.

Seems to be the latest- check back here: http://www.adventurefilm.org/blogs/adventure_blog.aspx * Climber's Body Found in China 6/6/2009 10:00:00 AM June 6, 2009, Boulder, CO—A body has been found in avalanche debris at 4000 meters on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet) on the Minya Konka massif, Western Sichuan Province, China. It is believed to be one of the American climbers currently being searched for, though there is no positive identification at this time. A team of local Chinese climbers has initiated the search effort. More Chinese and American climbers are en route to the area. The three American climbers are from Boulder, Colorado—Jonathan Copp (age 35), Micah Dash (age 32), and Wade Johnson (age 24)—and have not been heard from since May 20. “We are working hard to get a positive i.d. on the climber’s body and are keeping the search effort underway,” says Robb Shurr, spokesperson for the search effort. A blog with up to date information and a fund to help assist in search and rescue efforts has been set up at http://adventurefilm.org/. No other information is currently available. As soon as more information becomes available it will be shared. Please do not contact friends and family due to the sensitive nature of the situation.

those of you who know me, know I gotta plug here: If you are really considering getting into it- you might also consider a course with NOLS- www.nols.edu. They offer longer courses that focus on excellent technical instruction, and put you in the field for longer periods of time so you can really get some experience+technical training. I did a semester in Alaska that include 24 days of mountaineering in the east Alaska Range.

SOLD to a nice kid on ebay!

So I need to work on my trad climbing. I sport climb pretty well, but the trad game needs work. I'm in Portland, and thus far I haven't found a lot of low grade trad climbs that are much fun at Ozone and Broughtons. I'm sure I'm just missing some things- is there good easy trad at Carver? Bulo Point? Horsethief? I know there is some at Beacon, but it's still closed. I'm thinking anything within ~1-1.5 hours drive. Thoughts are appreciated, flaming- not so much. Thanks!

This point should be strongly emphasized. I can appreciate you leveraging this forum for beta, however, it seems you have little glacier experience. I also climbed the Sulphide Glacier route over Memorial day, the vast majority of the route will require you to mitigate glacial hazards- not vertical rock climbing terrain. While I could see any technical rock being the foremost concern, I would encourage you to try to take a basic glacier skills class this summer, something that includes cravasse rescue scenarios. You are planning a trip very late in the season, and I agree entirely with mkporwit that the glacier will be bare, heavily cravassed, and a relatively dangerous place to travel if you don't have a lot of glacier experience. Travel on bare glacier is especially hazardous because arresting a fall is much more difficult, and knowing when/where to use a rope safely and properly takes some careful thought- preferrably based on experience.

Still available! Last offer before I head north... (and am stuck taking this pack north). It's on ebay now too, I have sunk to the lowest of lows. I fixed the hole in the collar. $200 Anyone???

Did anyone use the beautiful weather last weekend to ski on snowdome on the north side of Mt. Hood? Thinking to hit it this Sunday with some friends... also- beta on crossing the Elliot- my normal inclination would be to rope up cause I've seen some big cracks there and it's been warm- recent conditions? Thanks

I just did the Sulphide glacier route this weekend, and it was an excellent intro to glacial skiing in NCNP. Trip report will be posted tonight. There is about an hour of skis on pack walking involved though.

there is no good kind of body recovery operation...

Backpacks: Go to a couple shops, try a couple packs on, and find the one that really fits. When you have 100lbs in it, you'll be thankful. That said I realize you're not concerned about cost, but my Gregory Denali Pro is currently for sale and is a pretty stellar large pack. It's still in great shape, and seeing as how you are likely not to use a pack that big for most anything else, getting a deal on one might be nice... let me know if you are interested and have an 18-19.5" torso.

tanstaafl- thanks much. us kids gotta learn this stuff somewhere.

telemarker- where'd you start from? perhaps I'm not native enough to understand "launching off on the LOL on Thursday up to Holden."

I gotta give props to Jared J for the advice on organizing the belay BEFORE you bring up the second. I can't tell you how many people I've seen (and how many times through the learning process for myself) that this has really bitten people hard. If you are leading, your partner may be less skilled than you, and may struggle with the pitch. Offering a good belay from a disorganized belay stance can be both impossible and dangerous.

Thanks for the conditions report- glad you guys stayed safe. Planning to hit the finger on the 30th...

pm sent on screw

link?

Vickster- That is exactly the kind of sentiment that I hope other people were/are feeling. Also- thanks all for the hilarious vids, and excellent ideas on how to give a little bit back. 111- I had a similar experience around Broken Top this past February. Had not factored in the geology for environmental damage as well... shitfuckers.

true, but I didn't carry a quark for skiing the south spur on adams