Bob Loomis

Hi Fellow Climbers, My partner and I went out to Banks Lake on Saturday, 9 January (last weekend) and found good conditions. Not "fat" but close to fat--as good or nearly as good as at any time in the past several years. Judging from the forecast it is likely to be in good shape at least through the coming weekend. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Hi Fellow Climbers, Yesterday, on Thursday 23 July, I found a pair of rock shoes at Post Falls. If you can correctly identify what I found we can work together to get them back to you. You can email me at > loomis@rescue.com < or call 509.926.6766. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Hi Fellow Climbers, Recently I was given as a gift a new pair of Evolv Defy Rock Shoes. The problem is they do not fit and I do not want to hurt the feelings of the giver by returning them. They have never touched rock. I wore them for about 15 minutes at home--so the only surface they have touched is carpeting. You can go to the Evolv website for pictures and specifications. They are size 10.5 mens. Asking $60.00. I am in the Spokane area so any interested buyer can meet me and try them on. They are truly new with nothing wrong. Email me at > loomis@rescue.com < or call 509.926.6766. I seldom check my messages on this site so do not PM me please. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Hi Fellow Climbers: I have some climbing equipment for sale as a result of some spring cleaning. Here is the list: 1. One new Charlet Moser Pulsar Evolution Ice Ax w/ Charlet Moser Performance Leash—perfect for all around mountaineering and short sections of technical ice--$120.00 OBO; 2. One set of Metolious Quick Up Etriers—used once on a trip up El Cap—very good shape--$30.00 OBO; 3. One set of metal step Etriers—new--$10.00 OBO; 4. One BD Chest Gear Harness—used once on a trip up El Cap—very good shape—perfect for all big wall aspirants—super comfortable w/ loads--$25.00 OBO; 5. One Patagonia Foamback Cagoule—new --$25.00 OBO—the only garment in history that was ever proved to be fully waterproof even in a “monsoon;” 6. One new pair of OR Scholler pants—all the bells and whistles any alpinist or ice climber would ever want in a pair of pants—men’s medium--$120.00 OBO; and 7. Various miscellaneous hardware—wire gated biners, new Metolious rap rings, etc., cheap as per item. Give me a call or email me if you want to look at the items. I can meet you just about anywhere in the Spokane area. Bob Loomis > loomis@rescue.com < or (W) 509.926.6766 I would prefer to deal face to face--the hassles of long distance deal-making and I prefer a buyer be able to handle or try on what he/she is buying. Makes for a better situation all around. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA

Hi Fellow Climbers, Yesterday-10 January-Banks Lake was in fair shape--not great--but fair shape. Devil's Punchbowl was mostly in, and Pee Wee's Playground was fully in. Other formations like the Cable and Zenith are about 50% in. It is hard to say how long it will last--the regional forecast is a bit warmer in the coming days and the longer range forecast for the region is more rain than snow. So if your schedule is flexible and you want to get out there, the next few days might be the window. On the other hand the weather might reverse and it gets better. Who knows? I will try to attach some pictures but my technical skills may not be up to the task. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, Wa.

Hi Fellow Climbers, Thought I might give you a quick field report. Yesterday, 7 December, my friend, Nicholas and I went out to Banks Lake to see if the ice was in. It is. We ended up spending the day at the Devil's Punchbowl. There were minimal "death-cicles." The punchbowl itself is 80-90% filled in. The climb on the left--Trotsky's was in okay shape--water was running underneath, next to the ice so it was a bit hollow sounding but we each got several laps in and nothing fell down. We also replaced the old tree/bush slings at the top of Trotsky's with fresh perlon. The waterfall down below (Trotsky's something--cannot remember the name), close to the road, was not in. PeeWee's playground was mostly filled in. Miscellaneous ice was in down the road toward Coulee City. H2O2 is starting but not in, the Cable is starting but not in, Brush Bash is in, but thin. South of US 2, nothing seem in--not Children of the Sun, Clockwork Orange, etc. Warm temperatures and rain are in the forecast for the rest of the week so what we saw yesterday may be shortlived, but if it gets cold again it should rebuild fast. So, in sum, right now there is enough in to justify a first day on the ice and just get comfortable again--which is what it was for us. Hope this helps. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Dear Fellow Climbers, An edit to my posting. It should say I tried to post a picture of the axe and failed. Sorry, but I can send pictures directly if someone is interested, just email me at my email address in my original posting. Cheers, Bob

Dear Fellow Climbers, I have one new Charlet Moser 60 cm ice axe. It is an axe for general mountaineering, climbing Rainier, etc. Given its mint condition I would like to get $120.00 for it but will consider any reasonable counter offer. I have posted a picture on this site, but can always send another picture if someone is interested. I tend to forget to check my email on this site, so if interested email me directly at > loomis@rescue.com <. I also have an extra pair of Scholler pants also new, if someone is interested. I would prefer a face to face sale if possible. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

Dear Fellow Climbers: I have a new North Face Gore Tex one piece suit (not insulated--its the shell suit) for sale. It is a Men's Medium--the classic Yellow & Black suit. It was for some climbing that never worked out. New at retail it was over $800.00, and now comparable suits seem to top $1,000 USD. I would like to get $200.00 USD, but will consider other reasonable offers--beats having it sit in the closet. Pictures are attached (I hope that function works), if not I can send pictures. I also have an off width crack current model Camelot--used on one pitch--spans 5-7" crack. Basically new-excellent condition. I would like to get $100.00 USD but am open to reasonable counteroffers, and a picture is attached (hope the function works) or I can send a picture if requested. I am in Spokane, Washington and would prefer to deal face-to-face so whoever buys knows what they are getting (ex., try on the suit, check for rips (there are none), check the cam cables for wear & fraying (there is none), etc.). You can send me an email at > loomis@rescue.com < and we can work out arrangements if you are interested. Cheers, Bob Loomis

Hi DRep, Starting in the mid-1990s I got it. In total I think I have had five distinct episodes on the right and one on the left. I think I have done everything possible--PT with multiple professionals, once a cortisone injection, stretching, the exercises advocated by Dr. Julian Sanders (the prior link), loads of passive rest, loads of active rest, ultrasound, supplements, massage, chiropractor, magnets, etc. Basically if it exists as a possible remedy, I have tried it. To some extent a certain low level of pain is now normal in my life. What I have found is if you do everything right--nutrition, good climbing biomechanics, stretching, resistance work in the right proportions, strategic rest, etc., you will recover, but due to the nature of climbing and the stresses it puts on your body, it will tend to want to come back from time to time. I have found that so long as the pain is kept to basically "background nuisance" I can keep climbing, but the moment it gets to be more than that I have to really dial back my activity level. Really pay attention to all the little things--good sleep at night, hydration, fish oil supplements, how you sleep at night (do not sleep on the arm whose elbow is hurting, esp. if you sleep with a bent arm--all relates to a relaxed arm with good blood flow for 8 hours a day), etc. These little things, and there are dozens of little things that go into the mix, all add up to making a big difference. Look for what corrolates in your day--ex., keyboard use and elbow pain, how you grip your car steering wheel and pain/soreness. Pay attention and eliminate or modify the things that hinder healing and recovery. In the end rest really is nature's best cure for most things that ail you--but as committed climbers we tend not to want to hear that. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Hi Higgins and All, I have encountered this phenonena at least twice, possibly more times. One time was rock climbing, the other ice climbing. I have also read at least once of this occuring in the AAC's Accidents in North American Mountaineering. In my situations the proximate cause of the carabiner becoming rotated and thus cross-loaded to either the bolt (rock climbing) or to the screw hanger (BD Turbo Express) was just the biner "riding" up on the rope. It is a very rare phenomena, but not unheard of. After some time field testing on my own I found a simple solution--use an oval and not a "D" shaped carabiner when clipping to a bolt or screw. I made the conversion on my draws more than 10 years ago after field testing this solution and have never had a issue like this since then. Ovals are plenty strong and due to the smooth inner curve of the biner there is no "pinch point"/inflection point, or place for the biner to bind and hang up on a bolt or screw hanger. I have been somewhat surprised over the years why more climbers do not use ovals for exactly this reason. I hope I have helped. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

Dear All, Yesterday (9 February) I found a couple of small items of gear at Banks Lake. If you can tell me what I found it is yours--we can work out how I can give/ship it to you. Email me at > loomis@rescue.com < or call me at 509.710.5102. By the way the ice was still very much in and plastic as of yesterday. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Dear All, One feature to an ice climbing harness mentioned above, but worth stressing a bit more is water absorbancy. Some polymers hold their weight in water, others less, some none at all. Over the course of a day ice climbing your harness will tend to get wet--even on a very cold day due to your body's warmth any snow, ice, melt water will tend to accumulate in your harness. This will rob you of core body heat (the harness wraps around your torso and the leg loops are next to your femoral artery), be harder to dry out at night, adds weight to your body, tends to be soaked in by your shell over the course of the day, etc. So try to purchase a harness which is made of polymers which are hydrophobic. If not, take the time to use spray waterproofing agents to your harness--the same stuff you use on your clothing. Doing so will pay a dividend. Some manufacturers advertise this property about the polymers they use in their harness composition. I support many of the other prior comments. I hope I have helped this conversation. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

Dear All, I was recently shown how to send pictures from my phone, so if someone wants to see a picture of these tools I can provide it if you text me on my mobile phone: 509.710.5102. Cheers, Bob Loomis

Dear All, I have a pair of the new style BD Fusion axes for sale (the green ones). Sorry my technical skills are not great so I do not have any pictures to show you. They are lightly used. I am selling them for several reasons--but not because they are not great to use or not state of the art (check the gear reviews). I take good care of my gear, so these are not beat up, etc. I would prefer to sell them face-to-face with the buyer because I want the buyer to have a chance to look them over first hand, take a couple of swings, etc. My philosophy as a climber dictates to me that I try (do not always succeed) to treat other climbers with integrity--so when this sale is done I want the buyer and I to be on good terms--I do not want to meet the buyer at a crag one day and have him/her feel I put one over on them. But if it has to be a long distance sale so be it. If the buyer lives in the Spokane area we can easily meet for a buyer inspection. At a distance I could meet at a venue (Banks, Canmore, Field, etc.) to give the buyer an inspection chance. I do not have a PayPal account so would prefer a cash sale. Online it looks like the best deal new is about $280.00 USD. I would like to get $200.00 each, but will consider other fair offers. You can email me at > loomis@rescue.com < or call me at 509.710.5102 or 509.926.6766 and ask for Bob. I also have a pair of new Scholler pants I might part with as well if anyone is interested--medium build. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.