shannonpahl

Excellent! Great climbing and views. Must have been fun to see the views when the clouds parted, instead of seeing nothing.

Does anyone have recent beta on the ice cliff conditions?

There is a tree across the road blocking further access, about 1 mile from the TH

My guess is that its due to many effects, one being the pulley effect - the clipped biner on the anchor effectively becomes a pulley with the belayer's rope on one side, the falling climbers rope on the other side. Of course without this, there is still the sum of the falling climbers force and your weight on the anchor, but without the pulley, you have more real rope to absorb the force (the rope is not short circuited by the biner) and you also have the belayers body and some rope slippage in the belay device all helping to absorb some force, making for much less direct impact force on the anchor

Interested in a climb of Mt Kent? Thursday or Friday this week ? (Thursday is my preference). To be safe, lets call it WI4, AI3, M3, 10+ pitches. Are you ok with those numbers? I did one variation a few weeks back, and I'd like to go back and do the Kloke route. Conditions may be ok for Thursday and Friday. The ice might be ok, the couloirs could be a little soft. Here's some info on Kent ... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=868676

I found a pic showing some routes on Kent from this thread ... http://test.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/647462/Searchpage/1/Main/48549/Words/Mt.+Kent/Search/true/Re_TR_Kent_NF_unnamed_mixed_ro#Post647462 Here is the route we took (I'm not claiming this is a new route, I'm sure others have climbed it before) The differences with the Burdick/Fortier route is that we stayed left at the top of P1 and moved up, then crossed higher up to join that route in the main gully, then took the right gully at the headwall (they went left), and again right up a gully at the next headwall. From this pic, you can also see how another variation could be the Kloke start leading into the route we took

I see on your winter climbs page there is a ?? for Mount Kent. We did a route on Mount Kent last week-end. Its a great place to go climb in the winter, and when its in, there are tons of fun routes and variations. Well worth a few trips out there during winter. Our TR is here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=868676

Thanks for those great pix! That looks awesome, as it was. Good thinking putting in that second piece with me following the traverse, phew! Good climbing with you again also. Excellent choice of climb!

(Updated the photo links)

Trip: Mount Kent - North Face Date: 2/21/2009 Trip Report: This week-end, Richard Conner and myself decided to try out a route on Mt Kent's north face. We found two other reports describing various routes: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=557805 http://www.alpinedave.com/mt_kent/mt_kent.html We intended climbing the Kolke route but started on the route from the two reports above (helped by Brian's report and the photo of the first pitch). This was an *excellent* climb and highly recommended when its in (it is now). As a comparison, its technically harder and much longer than a Chair peak climb and we found it more enjoyable. Our start was at the first flow as we approached the base of the climbing (see topo below), but there appears to be another start further along with possibly a fatter ice start and appears to run into our route just at about where we did our ridge crossing (see details below). The start of P1 is visible on the approach, but the major gullies we climbed in were 'hidden' from the approach view. Route description: P1: 200+ft, WI4. The belay was at the big root that emerged from a crack in the rock in a rock enclave just left of the main flow. The start of the climb had a better flow about 10 feet around the corner from the obvious flow as you approach the base. After topping out of the WI section, the angle kicks back and a good tree belay is on the left as you top out. Its best to have a 70m rope or run the belay until the follower reaches the start of the WI section. The flow was thin and hollow in places. Its a long sustained pitch but with superb climbing. If the ice was fat, it would be about a WI3+ but given its current condition, we rate it at WI4. P2-P4: AI3 (AI3 mostly because of an exposed ridge crossing) Continue up with a running belay keeping left initially from the top of P1. Near the top of the minor gully the route traverses right over a steep ridge into a wide gully. Protect the other side of this ridge crossing with +1 pieces between the leader and follower as the follower exits on the other side of the ridge as there is significant expose on that side. P5-P9?: AI2 More running belays. Near the top of the wide gully, a head wall splits a gully to the left and right. Keep in the right gully for another few running belays. This gully also tops out to another head wall. Set up a belay at the clump of trees near the top of the gully. There are left and right options here. Start a belay at the clump of trees for the right option. P10: 200+ft. WI3, mixed. The flow was thin in places, with one good mixed stem to bypass some really hollow thin ice. There were some good veggie belays along the way too. A fun pitch and easier than P1. Top out with a tree anchor near the ridge top. At the ridge top, turn right to complete a ridge scramble to the summit, about 150ft gain. Approaching P1: Some stats: Approach: 3H30 mins. 4 miles, 2500ft total gain. We started at about 1630ft, and the base of the climb was at 3583 ft, 10T 604593 5249719. We got to the base of the climb by 11am. Climb: 6 hours. Summited at 5pm. (actually less than 6 hours if you subtract out the time to gear up at the base). The technical climb topped out about 150 below the summit. Summit at 5100ft (I think the snow put us a little higher than the official summit). That makes the technical climb about 1370ft or 1500ft from base to summit. Descent: 3H15 mins. 5.25 miles. Started 5:15pm, back at the car by 8:30pm. From the summit to about where we crossed the creek below, was about 45 mins. Gear Notes: Used 10 slings on P1. A few short screws. 4 pickets. Brought but did not use: cams, nuts and pins. Approach Notes: Start with the McClellan butte trail. Make sure you follow the correct railroad grade (see topo), as there are many such roads to fool you. At a point along the railroad grade, take the right branch (see topo for the road junction just before where the red and yellow lines meet nearer to the climb), then drop into the basin to cross the stream (the start of this 'drop' is where the red and yellow lines meet nearer to the climb). Then, traverse up and right to the base of the climb. From the approach, you can see a large clump of trees below P1 with another smaller clump still higher up yet below P1. Use these as guidelines for when you emerge from the stream.

Thanks. Sounds like the east is a faster approach to the real fun. I was hoping to do it this week-end but it did not come together. I hope to do it soon while its still in winter conditions and I'll send a detailed TR when I get it done.

Thanks for the info. Is the approach from the north east or north west face of the ridge? I've seen one report here: http://homepage.mac.com/stephen.ramsey/climbing/triplog/200403-pinnacle/

Does anyone have any beta on Pinnacle peak east ridge and/or north ridge? (winter ascents). Which route would you choose (and why?). have you done both? I've been scoping out the east ridge but have recently heard that the north ridge is also quite a good climb. (here is a pic of the east ridge taken this last week-end http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/6FTnbVoSfM-eqk1HW_V_pQ?feat=directlink)

Has anyone done or know of beta for a mixed climb up Icicle buttress? We saw a nice sheet of ice on cocaine connection last week-end (only saw it from the road so its hard to tell if it will take screws, but it surely was thicker than the thin stuff we were cragging on). Does anyone have any beta on other routes in the icicle?

Yes, we went down the North side. The rap off the crux block was a little sideways to get to the north side rap station below it, but after that it was straight down. Down was faster this way than our ascent.

add me to the list

thanks for the suggestions

What gear dups (doubles, tripples...) are needed for toxic shock at Index, for the whole pitch, and for both the left and right crack start?

Trip: Forbidden Peak w/ridge - Forbidden Peak w/ridge Date: 7/12/2008 Trip Report: Forbidden w/ridge was in great shape this week-end. Some of our pix are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/shannonpahl/ForbiddenPeak We decided to use the great weather window this week-end on something that needs it. We got a permit on Friday night. Cascade river road was opened all the way the day before. On Saturday morning, there were about 17 cars at the Boston basin parking lot. The conditions of the climbers trail up to Boston basin remains the same as last year - a fun face slapping, gear grabbing stroll through obstacles. Low camp is snow free but high camp is snow covered. Only on the way back did we see a partial trail to high camp (the rest covered by snow) - in summer there appears to be a trail to high camp which cuts across from low camp more or less directly. On the way up, we instinctively tried that because, a. the waypoint pointed us that way and b. the congregation of a group of 12 at high camp. It was an up and down path to high camp that looked quite flat from afar but was not. Coming back down, we chose to go around it all - traversing along the snow then heading down the moraine to low camp (see the gps track in the pix). It was an easy way down to low camp. There is a river crossing on the way up to low camp that can be troublesome at this time - lots of water. Going up we managed to get across it ok, but coming down, the water was too strong and we essentially went back up to low camp then simply cut across two mini ridges and the two smaller rivers, then headed down to join the trail. As you come down to low camp, from one of those poles at low camp, just traverse left across two small ridges and the two smaller rivers that join below to make for a dicey river crossing. (see the gps track in the pix - the low camp is the next blue marker after the TH marker. Select download photo on the right to see full sized images). Just as you come to the low camp, you will get a good view of Forbidden and the couloir. This is one of many good places to plan you ascent. We camped overnight at high camp and came across two parties coming down, one from Forbidden, the other from the Torment traverse. We got started at sunrise. From high camp, keep on the snow by skirting right around the rock obstacles in the middle of the snow field, then traverse left to avoid the large open crack in the snow, then left around the large rock that guards the couloir. The couloir is still in good shape in the morning. There are two bergshrunds that cut across the couloir, the second being the only that requires a small step over a reasonable snow bridge. (ps, go there now before it opens up completely). The couloir narrows a lot near the base then opens up. It runs at about 50 degrees but is good in the morning for kick steps with crampons and a solid ice axe self belay. Pickets would have been of no use here, the snow was not hard enough to allow the pickets to hold a shock loaded fall. It got a little steeper near the top with softer snow but luckily it was only a very short section. It ends up in a moat on the left as you're going up. Here is a good place to save some time and pack your ice axe and put on rock shoes for the short gully leading to the notch / ridge. We initially tried it with boots but found it much easier after we switched to rock shoes. At the notch, we roped up for some simul climbing. After about one pitch up, look back down to see the great bivy spots at the notch. (photographers - best time for pix from along the ridge looking down is early morning, so possibly plan to use the bivy at the notch) One way to get there is just before the notch, go left then over the crest. The climbing was great with amazing views. The wind was cold but we climbed with our puffy jackets (the only party also on the climb turned back mid way up the rock climb because they were too cold and did not have warmer clothing, outch, after all that effort getting to the actual climb). As mentioned in numerous reports, keep left of the crest and avoid the lichen and make climbing easy. We simul climbed the first few pitches below then pitched out the upper sections. The summit block is the most fun pitch with fun moves and good gear placements. (see pic of the block and a good report here: http://sabegg.googlepages.com/forbidden) Coming down the rock was easier than expected, from the summit, there is a rap station leading to the base of the summit block - look to your left as you come down to see the next rap station. I think we took about 3 raps straight down to the last rap off a pink tech cord with no rap rings. As you go down this rap, look right to find the sandy ledge you'll want to head for once you're off rappel - its a short right traverse and then up about 10 feet to reach this ledge. From there, just keep traversing to reach the ridge crest in no time while simul climbing and then you're just about at the notch. Then, you can either rap down the couloir, or as we read before, you can climb/rap down a gully next to the couloir. We chose to rap down the gully to observe the alternative to climbing the couloir. There is a rap station just below the notch - as you down climb a little from the notch, the rap is to your left. The rap appears to go down the couloir but you can also head a little right (looking down) over the snow finger and onto some rocks below. From there, just walk around the rocks and notice the rap station on the right wall of the gully. It requires a little down climbing in the gully to get there. That's when we noticed the conditions of the gully, loose rock of all sizes - even large ones that appear good can be bad. From this rap, just keep going straight down. Single rope (60m) raps will get you down onto the steep snow. I'd prefer climbing up the couloir than the gully because of the loose stuff in there but later in the season you may have no option. The rap down the gully puts you a little lower that the last rap down the couloir and hence less down climbing steep snow. From the base of the gully there was only a short section that required 'front pointing' / kick steps and then start plunge stepping not too much further down. Rapping on Forbidden is not easy - it seems to have hungry sharks teeth all over just waiting to catch and cut your rope as it did to ours, and forcing me to climb up a few short sections to free the rope. You need to be efficient on this climb to make it back to the car on the summit day, or plan on camping a night at high camp on the way down. The climb is superb, one that requires a wide range of mountaineering skills and improvisation beyond just climbing crag walls. It certainly is a classic. NAD 27 UTM (obtained from a book) 642018 5371237 TH 643099 5372904 low camp 643173 5373628 high camp 643311 5374636 couloir 643346 5374773 west ridge 643487 5374798 summit Gear used: ice axe crampons light alpine rack to 2 inches