cms829

Hey all. Havent been out in a season or two and one of my climbing partners suggested we try to get one last trip in before ice season starts here in the Northeast. I've been on the mountain plenty and know my way around. But all during the normal season. Been on the DC a couple times, Emmons, Fuhrer finger (BIG time avy on the Wilson forced us back down, there were pics of that on here somewhere...it slid HUGE).... Anyway...I digress. We have the skill and gear...Dont need any advice. Just looking for opinions on the average conditions around mid October on a similar year. I know the DC is almost fully "out" per most recent reports. I was thinking about the Kautz glacier or Gib ledges. (But may be too early for the ledges?) Was relying on the DC as a "backup" quick easy route...but doesn't look like it would be the case as the upper mtn has opened up real good recently. Were looking at the 3rd weekend in October. Obviously since were flying out and have limited time (5-6 days in the area), its a crap shoot weather wise. I realize this. And if the worst case happens we'll drive elsewhere to climb something else. Maybe the olympics, IDK. Anyway.....anyone care to offer their opinion on if its worth the $$ to fly out? I know what things look like late season....but considering the mtn's condition today, would it be any fun? Or would it be a total scree (suffer) fest? Thanks in advance.

The showers in the old Jackson visitors center were the Shit! Same deal man...Nice hot shower after a couple days up high, and a incredible flat iron steak at the Copper Creek, topped off with a fresh slice of blueberry pie....ahhhh. Its what keeps me coming back year after year. Last year we drove town to town looking for showers....we came up empty.

Anyone know their last known location? Or was it Paradise before heading up? Hows the weather today?

Absolutely terrific. Awesome way to begin my day! Truly makes you appreciate their determination and drive!

you guys offloading any used gear like the other times?

very nice! way to make the most out of a soggy day

Glad your safe Loren. RIP Tucker and condolences to family, friends, and the climbing community

no pretty sure it is against park policy/rules

LOL. While descending the interglacier on Thursday 6/17. A Ham and cheese sandwich on rye. Sorry I didn't have the energy to carry it back up to you. As far as conditions, we were on the mtn from mon-thurs. Approach is in great shape with minimal hazards to schurman. Tues-wed night was off and on stormy with snow. Don't know exact accumulation but enough to create 3-4 ft drifts at schurman. Went for the summit wed night at 3am and encountered a mix of firm, soft, and icy sections. Some small drifting less than 1ft. Mostly wind blown firm stuff. the route was not wanded but an img group wanded up to around 11.5k. Minor crevasse hazard up to the same alti. All groups turned around below 12k due to weather. Descent was in a partial white out below schurman. The slope getting back to camp curtis was loaded with windblown but we had no issues traversing it. Interglacier was soft and the bootpack was filled in but plenty of people were heading up Thursday...that's all for now. Off to solo lane peak in the morning. Tr will follow. Sorry no pics for now. Will update when I get home. Again sorry you lost your lunch buddy. I'm sure it will be there for your descent.

well said. Thanks for the reply.

I understand that it is difficult and time consuming to attain a solo permit as I have gone through the process myself. But....any chance things have been made purposely more difficult/obnoxious to steer climbers who obviously do not have the necessary decision making skills, mountaineering skills, and experience to safely climb Mount Rainier solo? No offense, But I'm sure the last thing Stefan needs right now is a bunch of emails complaining about the current solo permit process. I'm sure he has many other important things to be dealing with right now that he possibly wouldn't have to be dealing with if people registered for their climbs and went through the proper (regardless if it is overbearing) process to attain a permit. Not to speculate and I am very sorry for the recent accident, but could the reason for the current situation be that this gentleman was not experienced enough to make proper decisions on the mountain to begin with. And that he knew he would in fact be denied a solo permit? That seems likely to me, but obviously I could be wrong. While I do agree that the process could be made easier, I for one feel that this is much more likely reason the fallen climber may have not gone through the paperwork. Clearly there were some bad decisions that morning made by said climber. Again....I dont want to sit on my computer and speculate about an accident, but I wanted to voice my opinion As a climber from the East coast that frequents Mount Rainier almost every year (I will be in the park next week) I agree that ever since Mike left, the blog has taken a turn for the worst. I used to check it every day. Now I rarely check it and turn to CC.com for more recent beta. So while I do agree with the original poster in that I wish the blog was what it used to be, I just wanted to voice my OPINION on the other issue's which were mentioned.

agreed

thanks abucks....good luck and i look forward to your TR. have fun

Thanks guys....didnt mean to take away from the TR.

abucks...we'll be on the fuhrer finger 6/15. So any approach beta would be really appreciated by our group. Last season we got pushed back due to extremely unstable snow conditions on the wilson. After I had to bandage up a split boarder after he got caught in an avalanche, we called it a day and went up the DC. But with that said, we stayed on the nisqually and got onto the wilson well above the fan as there seemed to be a lot of rock fall and def higher avy danger in there. This year i'll be avoiding the fan as well.