sklag
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Posts posted by sklag
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Hey doods,
I'd like to join this gentleman in motivating himself to tackle his goal for climbing rainier. Here's what I'm proposing-Everybody who's interested in dropping one or two bad habits that prevent you from climbing or going harder post it here. I'm going to start by saying I'm going to stop eating poorly (i.e. drinking sodas). If you falter please post as well. Sorry to hijack the thread, but I think that if he sees that more and more people are also invested in this endeavor of personal fitness, he might be more compelled to go further and harder as well.
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I have the smaller wooden hangboard, so the workout plan is ten minutes. Should I just cycle twice through this workout or would that be too much right off the bat?
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Hey guys and gals,
So here's the dilemma. I currently climb 5.11a/b sport, and want to hit 5.12+ by next spring... Besides climbing as much as possible, I have a hangboard that I've been doing the generic workout with it (metolius). My problem is that I don't really know what I'm doing in regards to setting up a training regimen around increasing finger strength and thus improving climbing grades. Are there any beginner hangboard workouts/intermediate training regimen that anybody can recommend, or concepts that help elucidate "what to do when" would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sklag
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You'll find that with cam placements, often, a slight pocket, constriction or nubbin can be found within seconds and within inches of your placement if you look for it... You'll find that when you get into hard fingercracks [real climbing], the best and only finger lock is often the best nut placement as well [this reeks of french freeing], and you can sit and fiddle to get your fingers out of the perfect lock so you can slot a nut in the constriction while you pump out, or you can instantly plug and go a perfect green or yellow alien small mastercam right under or above the neck down spot where your fingers and your bodyweight are residing [thus acting like the jug you desperately wished for]. Thats when one really starts loving [to pull on] cams gear.
Ha! I just read between the lines here. Sounds to me like some tape would help your cause.
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You that idea looks fine with the fig 8 on a bight, hell look at long's anchor book, how he shortens the equallette and uses 3 pieces to equalize instead of 4. Anywho, also with that extra little nub that's causing everybody grief, why don't you just make a triple fig 8 out of it, and the problem is rectified.
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exactly.
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saw something on amazon, "avoiding the touch" Dvd's; there seems to be a series of them. They are all about strangers with candy in vans or something... No seriously, they are about self rescue, increasing efficiency, etc... Take a peek.
chris
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Look a few things, hand jammies are to tape gloves as medical marijuana is to crystal meth. Washington is full of meth heads, therfore I'd say a good 70% of ya have at least tried tape gloves and use them regularly (hehehehe)... Anyways, I work in a hospital with infectious diseases and multi drug resistant bacteria, protection of skin integrity is utmost so as not to contract hep c,aids, mrsa, etc... from my patients. Now the nasty hookers I love, that's a different story... Alright now that I've settled everybody down, when you jam your foot, heel up or down? Knees high or lower? I feel as though on purely vertical cracks my ass is hanging out too far and tearing the shit out of my hands. Any real tips are much appreciated, as well as humorous flaming. Flame on and keep on climbing
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Ok, I'm sort of embarrassed to be asking this question but, when I hand jam, or foot jam on thin hands, It freakin' hurts. Any pointers, even just a "suck it up" would do, but how do people do it for hours on end? I mean it hurts pretty good even with tape gloves. Any pointers appreciated.
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"I'm her mom"- "no she's not!"... WTF?
The best was, "I have to go potty"- Look at her feet- "pssssstttt."
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hey anybody have any #5 tech friends they don't want...
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how much, I live in ohio btw. so obviously shipping is additional.
Let me know. thanks.
chris
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want to buy a hangboard, preferrably a metolius simulator type.
thanks
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Hey people,
I've got a few cams I was wondering about. I've got a full rack of tech friends (1-3.5) with a smattering of rigid friends (2.5-4) with some tricams (.5-2) and hexes/nuts. I need some larger cams and smaller cams. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. What I was looking at for small were ... tcu's, flex friends, small c4's or c3's; Large, tech friends and c4's.
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interested in the cams and .5-2 tricams
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screw Petzl. After the way their shit fell apart and they just ignored it, I'd never ever want to buy any of their shit ever again, but especially their ropes.
Do a search on Rockclimbng.com on "Petzl ropes falling apart and Petzl telling owners to piss off" if you are wondering.
The rope was used by this particular reviewer for top roping in I believe J-tree or something with the super abrasive nature of sandstone rock. But if you look at his set up, you can plainly see that when the rope was weighted, it dragged on the bulge or ledge that was directly below it- not good for any rope. I personally have a piece of shite petzl rope that I was sceptical about, but it's held up for 2 years now with sport climbing and the like. BTW, I haven't heard anything else similar about petzl ropes falling apart from others either.
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pm sent on 'pons
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Ok,
I got into a disagreement with a local outdoor store employee over softshell layering systems. What is the general consensus about how much insulation is needed under the softshell? I said it was less-like a r1 and capilene baselayer; he said pffff you need a heavyweight fleece-yo! And then it was on! Who was right?
Thanks
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That's what I was wondering. But if I extend myself off of the belay a foot or so I guess it's a mute point between the shelf or power point? Right?The greater the distance between the autoblock and the belayer, the easier it is to use, usually. In some cases, clipping the belay device into the shelf and hanging yourself off the powerpoint can give you six extra inches with every pull of the rope thru the device which results in a less tiring belay. -
Just curious if it is OK to use a device (atc guide)in autoblock mode just by clipping a locking biner into the shelf of an anchor?
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No silent partner? Use a gri gri.
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that's awesome! um, I'm just curious about the patagonia proprietary membrane and how breathable it has been for you? How do you use the jacket (skiing, climbing, etc...)?
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i'd like the rope bag.
FS--SOLD--Cams
in The Yard Sale
Posted
I would like the #4 friend. please email me.
sklag