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sklag

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Posts posted by sklag

    extending a rappel device...

    in Newbies

    Posted

    So, in light of the new dmm video showing the raping and pillaging of slings with factor 1 and 2 impact forces, what would the recommended way be to: 1) extend your rappel device, and 2) still use that same sling to go direct into the anchors. I have a set up I use that involves a knotted sling. Just wondering what you all use.

     

    Das Parka For Sale....

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Hey there,

    I have a brand new das parka for sale. It's a size large, I'm not; unfortunately. I took the damned tags off, lost em' now I can't return it. I'm looking for like 250 ish... It's blue, primaloft one insulation. Overall a nice coat! So, $250 but serious offers will be considered so I can get rid of it and buy a med... Thanks.

    Sklag

    infinite bliss partner

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Hey man, I'm going with a mountaineering class out of Ohio here. We call ourselves OMG!, as in Ohio Mountain Guides.. ha. It's lead by Andy Politz, who is an old RMI guide from Ed Viesteur's days. Anywho, I'm seriously thinking of doing infinite bliss while I'm out there, been looking at tr's of people doing this climb and just flat out think it would be a fantastic, long, and super fun day! I can climb 11b/c here at the red river gorge and lead about 5.9 on trad. My ropework is up to snuff I feel. So If your in in I would be eternally grateful! Hell, I would maybe want to do other Alpine stuff if I come out, Liberty bell sounds fun as well... My schedule is kinda open for that week or two in May. I'm thinking our trip is the 22-25th of may, doing success cleaver. Before or after that I'm pretty open. So let me know asap so I can get my ticket situation re-arranged.

    Chris

    pitons

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Looking for some pitons, real cheap. Just want to practice placing some in a junk piece of rock nearby. Also, does anybody know if the old military pitons on ebay are worthwile to buy? I'm curious.

     

    rope soling

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Ok I have two questions about rope soloing, 1) when rope soloing is it acceptable practice to tie back up knots below your solo device (in my case a gri gri)? 2) with the Gri Gri I've heard of a modification being made to it for this purpose. Why do people cut the triangular piece out of the biner hole? My guess would be that it cuts down on possible crossloading?

    Just curious.

    chris

    First Ascent Clothing - New choices

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Not to start a stir (or maybe to start a stir!), but I've seen some of this stuff first hand, and the quality may not be patagonia, but your also not paying "patagonia prices". The pants are actually pretty nice, and I own a few pairs of patagonia pants that in my opinion, just aren't "there" in terms of design (simple guide pant?).

    Using fabrics such as schoeller in their pant design is fairly expensive, it's akin to using gore-tex or event fabrics (you pay for their advertising). Therefore the price point for their pants is right on. Additionally, the last time I checked, paying 250-300 bones for a pair of softshell pants to get chewed up by crampons when ice climbing, was and still is retarded.

    Also where else are you going to get another down parka with 850 fill down for around $250? show me that deal and I'm all over it. Lastly if you head into the mountains with no way to cut a rope or webbing, Let me know how that works for you whe you get benighted due to a stuck rope or worse.

    It's not the most lightweight or techy gear out there (it wasn't designed to be!); but just because it wasn't designed by a bunch of canadian softshell blazer designers and instead developed by people who climb, ski, and guide like beasts; doesn't exclude it from the "good gear" pile.

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