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AlaskaNative

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Everything posted by AlaskaNative

  1. Years and years ago, I started gearing up, reading, strength training, etc., for climbing. Never happened, never gonna, so I have a fair amount of gear for severe conditions (I was pretty extreme about spending all the overtime money I got on gear and was going to thin it down when done trying things) that I'm going to selling off now (besides, I could really use the money right now). Anyway, I have an original unused Bibler (not Black Diamond) I-Tent, Big Wall version, made for a Portaledge (I don't have the vestibule or the Portaledge). I bought it Marmot, so it's not a prototype or anything like that - it's the real deal. I figure it's worth really good money to the right type of climber, but wondering where I'd find the right buyers, and I'd like get it into the hands of someone who could really use it (it's heavier than a standard I-Tent because of the extra features for ledges and tie-in - it would be a shame to cut off the extras and use it on the ground only). I see the Black Diamond version (made in China, not the USA like the Bibler version) went out of production at $700, and that was not the Big Wall version. Bottom line, where would I find the right people to buy it, and what are some opinions on what it would be worth?
  2. NASA site CalTech site May also be useful someday to deliver rescue gear or help with retrieval for climbers in trouble in dangerous places.
  3. Not a criticism, but it would help if some sizing information was posted. Waist belt? Back height? Here's a good example of how to measure back height, with no comment on the vendor being good or bad. http://www.gregorypacks.com/us/index.php/Gregory/Pack-Fit/packfit.html Another example: http://www.ospreypacks.com/PackTech/SizingandFitting/ Any idea on weight of the pack empty? Volume of the pack? Liters, or how many milk cartons or whatever? (comparable to how others measure, since McHale uses a different approach to measuring volume). Material? This changed a lot over the years from a heavy Cordura to more Spectra-entwined fabrics. Year made? This affects whether it has things like the Bypass Shoulder Harness. http://mchalepacks.com/sarc/04.htm
  4. SF Chronicle article.
  5. Just looked at nwhikers and saw this: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7968880 http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7969152
  6. PM sent.
  7. Where'd you get the high-density foam? I need some for some insulated gaiters I have that have open-cell foam (open-cell is for step-in crampons, and closed-cell is for strap-on/hybrid. The closed-cell is to prevent so much compression that they no longer have any insulating value). I asked Marmot, FF, and OR, and nobody could tell me where to get some I could cut to size.
  8. I'll buy them. PM sent.
  9. Good discussion, and pretty much in line with what I expected. Again, not wanting to create tension, and sorry if some of that has happened. Two things worth pointing out: - rbw1966 was right about the instructors reasons. The instructor said he wanted her to have a helmet that could take repeated hits. His reasoning was that multiple hits are much more common when Alpine climbing, where it would be unusual while Rock climbing. He didn't mention any concerns about hits while attached to a pack. - I definitely don't want to be hostile towards the instructor, or undermine his authority. He does care about his students, is doing his best (for free), and cannot be expected to know everything. I just wanted to collect a better cross-section of opinions from experienced climbers (well, that and see if she really needs to go out and buy another helmet). Any comments on the Ice Axe with the Axe-S attachment? If this is too small an issue to merit comment, that makes sense, just asking.
  10. A friend of mine is in training with a popular climbing club right now, and she showed up for Ice Axe training today with a Petzl Meteor III ( REI, Petzl), only to have the instructor tell her it was unacceptable for anything but rock climbing. I know it's polystyrene and can only take one hard hit before needing replacement, but nothing I've read in FoTH, or online, or heard from climbers, has said this. So I'm not looking to incite an argument, but wondering what the climbers here have to say. This instructor insisted on polycarbonate helmets like the Ecrin Roc, or the Elios. Of course, the same teacher told her that her axe was attached to her pack all wrong because she was using the Axe-S attachments on a Mountain Hardware pack... (Axe-S uses a metal tab that goes through the head of the axe with a thin bungie, so you don't have to do the drop-and-flip, then wrap the shaft. There's an example in this photo.)
  11. I don't want to continue something this small (it's not like anything really bad happened here, they're just gaiters, and nobody ended up injured or imprisoned), but I will add a note, and I understand if you want to comment again on my comments. I don't think I left anything out, and you didn't show anything I left out. Your email confirmation sounded more casual, and here it is exactly: "Tonight is fine around 6:30" That didn't mean to me it was confirmed and don't be late. It meant it worked for you as a time. OK, even if you assume that was an airtight scheduled event, I has a half-hour late making the call. During that half-hour, nobody called me to ask if I was late or what was happening. At that half-hour point, nobody answered when I called them, making me wonder if they were really sitting at home watching the precious 30 minutes tick by. In fact, I didn't even get a return call for another 60 minutes. I was never warned that I the deal was off if I ran late. You are right that people can flake out on deals like this. Anyway, I don't wish anything bad here, and I am sorry I ran a little late, which I said in my msg and when we talked.
  12. Buyer beware, the seller may sell to someone else after agreeing on a sale to you. I sent 3 PMs, 2 emails, confirmed a price, items, address, sent a phone number, etc. I mentioned tonight between 6-6:30, maybe later, or tomorrow. I called at 7, no answer, left a message. An hour later I got a call saying one of the items was already sold because I hadn't called by 6:30. Note that I never got a call asking if I was coming or anything. Your mileage may vary, but that was my experience.
  13. PM sent.
  14. I looked pretty heavily at that tent, but decided the Firstlight was a better option. The OneShot is too short to sit up in, can't accomodate a 2nd person, and has no vestibule option. You can remedy all of those problems with the Firstlight, for another half-pound. I bought a HiLight thinking it would be worth the ounces saved, but decided it was too short (ceiling height) and hard to setup, compared to the Firstlight. Here's some reviews and other information: BackPackGearTest Alaska Mountaineering. Really a page on the Firstlight, but note their opinion on water-resistance of EPIC fabric. Climber's review. Note that I don't agree with the fabric being no good in the rain. But it had better be seam-sealed properly before using it in rain. For ultralight 1-man/2-man tents these three standout, IMO: Hilleberg Akto This one is the strongest, easiest to pitch with gloves on, fail-safe (can't really puncture tent with a ruptured pole), has a built-in vestibule, never needs seam-sealing, and is the driest for setting up (and using) in heavy rain. No windows or direct vents, end-vents can easily get buried in snow (although you would still have a working roof vent), not freestanding (not a big deal in most cases), no entrances on the ends (not good for knife-edge ridges), much shorter inside height (can't really sit up all the way), expensive for a one-man tent. 3 lbs 5 oz, 36" height, $385 Moontrail page for the Akto Black Diamond Firstlight, detail page. Simple, light, breathable, freestanding, end entrance (for knife-edge ridges), high ceiling (like the MK1 Lite), room for two. Vestibule is more cost and weight (but not needed unless bringing a partner), poor UV-durability (must limit use at high altitudes and take down during sunny days), not waterproof for more than a couple days, most fragile (main fabric, and floor), easiest to damage (spearing a pole through the fabric), and least warm. 3 lbs 5 oz, 42" height, $299 (vestibule adds $129) Moontrail page for the Firstlight. Integral Designs MK1 Lite Simple to setup, freestanding, end entrance (for knife-edge ridges), vendor will custom-build, strong fabric. Compared to the Bibler tents - a lot less seam-sealing is required, has a sleeve vent on the side (better venting in cross-winds, also gives some side view, but lacks an eyebrow peak over the door), no snaps in the bottom corners to seal or leak, easier and safer to setup (rubber pole-ends with tougher fabric), uses double-velcro to hold poles which is more secure (but also requires that you take off your gloves), floor is 2" narrower than the Firstlight. Heaviest of these three tents, expensive, no vestibule option (only a problem for two people). 3 lbs 12 oz, 42" height, $500
  15. PM sent on both mitts, and the Sportiva overboots (assuming tvashtarkatena didn't want the Sportivas, and just wanted the OR overboots)
  16. What year was that Icefall made? Does it have one zipper or two? The collar was standard with a fleece lining? Looks like an Icefall, but the Frontpoint comes with the fleece-lined collar, and a single zipper. It can be easy to confuse the two.
  17. Not my write-ups, just putting in a few links to read. BackPackGearTest review NWHikers BackPackingNet
  18. Sabretooths: - Good price, still for sale, but found out they're step-in (not hybrid/newmatic), so don't work for me.
  19. One last comment. It won't matter which breathable fabric you choose, if it saturates on the outer surface with water (flat wet look, instead of water beading up). That's "wetting out", and once it happens no more breathing, no matter what the fancy material is underneath. Rainy Pass recommends Grangers, but they are also OK with Nikwax.
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