AlaskaNative

Years and years ago, I started gearing up, reading, strength training, etc., for climbing. Never happened, never gonna, so I have a fair amount of gear for severe conditions (I was pretty extreme about spending all the overtime money I got on gear and was going to thin it down when done trying things) that I'm going to selling off now (besides, I could really use the money right now). Anyway, I have an original unused Bibler (not Black Diamond) I-Tent, Big Wall version, made for a Portaledge (I don't have the vestibule or the Portaledge). I bought it Marmot, so it's not a prototype or anything like that - it's the real deal. I figure it's worth really good money to the right type of climber, but wondering where I'd find the right buyers, and I'd like get it into the hands of someone who could really use it (it's heavier than a standard I-Tent because of the extra features for ledges and tie-in - it would be a shame to cut off the extras and use it on the ground only). I see the Black Diamond version (made in China, not the USA like the Bibler version) went out of production at $700, and that was not the Big Wall version. Bottom line, where would I find the right people to buy it, and what are some opinions on what it would be worth?

NASA site CalTech site May also be useful someday to deliver rescue gear or help with retrieval for climbers in trouble in dangerous places.

SF Chronicle article.

Good discussion, and pretty much in line with what I expected. Again, not wanting to create tension, and sorry if some of that has happened. Two things worth pointing out: - rbw1966 was right about the instructors reasons. The instructor said he wanted her to have a helmet that could take repeated hits. His reasoning was that multiple hits are much more common when Alpine climbing, where it would be unusual while Rock climbing. He didn't mention any concerns about hits while attached to a pack. - I definitely don't want to be hostile towards the instructor, or undermine his authority. He does care about his students, is doing his best (for free), and cannot be expected to know everything. I just wanted to collect a better cross-section of opinions from experienced climbers (well, that and see if she really needs to go out and buy another helmet). Any comments on the Ice Axe with the Axe-S attachment? If this is too small an issue to merit comment, that makes sense, just asking.

A friend of mine is in training with a popular climbing club right now, and she showed up for Ice Axe training today with a Petzl Meteor III ( REI, Petzl), only to have the instructor tell her it was unacceptable for anything but rock climbing. I know it's polystyrene and can only take one hard hit before needing replacement, but nothing I've read in FoTH, or online, or heard from climbers, has said this. So I'm not looking to incite an argument, but wondering what the climbers here have to say. This instructor insisted on polycarbonate helmets like the Ecrin Roc, or the Elios. Of course, the same teacher told her that her axe was attached to her pack all wrong because she was using the Axe-S attachments on a Mountain Hardware pack... (Axe-S uses a metal tab that goes through the head of the axe with a thin bungie, so you don't have to do the drop-and-flip, then wrap the shaft. There's an example in this photo.)

I looked pretty heavily at that tent, but decided the Firstlight was a better option. The OneShot is too short to sit up in, can't accomodate a 2nd person, and has no vestibule option. You can remedy all of those problems with the Firstlight, for another half-pound. I bought a HiLight thinking it would be worth the ounces saved, but decided it was too short (ceiling height) and hard to setup, compared to the Firstlight. Here's some reviews and other information: BackPackGearTest Alaska Mountaineering. Really a page on the Firstlight, but note their opinion on water-resistance of EPIC fabric. Climber's review. Note that I don't agree with the fabric being no good in the rain. But it had better be seam-sealed properly before using it in rain. For ultralight 1-man/2-man tents these three standout, IMO: Hilleberg Akto This one is the strongest, easiest to pitch with gloves on, fail-safe (can't really puncture tent with a ruptured pole), has a built-in vestibule, never needs seam-sealing, and is the driest for setting up (and using) in heavy rain. No windows or direct vents, end-vents can easily get buried in snow (although you would still have a working roof vent), not freestanding (not a big deal in most cases), no entrances on the ends (not good for knife-edge ridges), much shorter inside height (can't really sit up all the way), expensive for a one-man tent. 3 lbs 5 oz, 36" height, $385 Moontrail page for the Akto Black Diamond Firstlight, detail page. Simple, light, breathable, freestanding, end entrance (for knife-edge ridges), high ceiling (like the MK1 Lite), room for two. Vestibule is more cost and weight (but not needed unless bringing a partner), poor UV-durability (must limit use at high altitudes and take down during sunny days), not waterproof for more than a couple days, most fragile (main fabric, and floor), easiest to damage (spearing a pole through the fabric), and least warm. 3 lbs 5 oz, 42" height, $299 (vestibule adds $129) Moontrail page for the Firstlight. Integral Designs MK1 Lite Simple to setup, freestanding, end entrance (for knife-edge ridges), vendor will custom-build, strong fabric. Compared to the Bibler tents - a lot less seam-sealing is required, has a sleeve vent on the side (better venting in cross-winds, also gives some side view, but lacks an eyebrow peak over the door), no snaps in the bottom corners to seal or leak, easier and safer to setup (rubber pole-ends with tougher fabric), uses double-velcro to hold poles which is more secure (but also requires that you take off your gloves), floor is 2" narrower than the Firstlight. Heaviest of these three tents, expensive, no vestibule option (only a problem for two people). 3 lbs 12 oz, 42" height, $500

Not my write-ups, just putting in a few links to read. BackPackGearTest review NWHikers BackPackingNet

One last comment. It won't matter which breathable fabric you choose, if it saturates on the outer surface with water (flat wet look, instead of water beading up). That's "wetting out", and once it happens no more breathing, no matter what the fancy material is underneath. Rainy Pass recommends Grangers, but they are also OK with Nikwax.

I bought an ID Cruiser jacket (half price) to test the eVent breathability. I normally use a MH Backcountry Recon jacket, which I've been really happy with, but haven't climbed in it. I think it would work with a helmet, and the lower pockets clear a pack belt. Love this jacket, and since it's been discontinued, it's on clearance at a number of places. Standard 3-layer PTFE laminate like Gore-Tex. I tested both on a trip up Mailbox Peak with a pack on. Steady wind and rain all day. The ID jacket sucked for one simple reason. No underzips (pit zips). The Recon let me easily "vest" the jacket without taking anything off, and being able to put my arms outside the jacket was far more "breathable" than any material could ever be. Haven't worn out either one yet, but the Recon is pretty light (1 lb), and seems much more durable to me. I also tested the Recon in measured winds of 50-60 mph (higher gusts) with a steady rain. Not a drop of water made it through. All the zippers are better protected on the Recon for conditions like this. For "usability", I like things like hood cords that are always easy to find, usable with gloves, and don't whip in the face in high winds. Other things like a hood that closes high on the face if necessary, with a brim, allow for a full closure with just the eyes exposed, and that makes a big difference in severe conditions. Just another opinion.

I freely admit that I can be way too much of a gear geek. But what if the question was only asked to help zero in on giving better advice? I was very clear that it was not criticism or arguing. But thanks for the advice.

Can't argue with your assessment. Looks like I've hit the point of diminishing returns on benefit vs time spent in gear anxiety... Looks like I have to use the Sabretooth Clip-On and not the Sabretooth Pro, because those boots don't have the proper front welt. Crampon guidance for Trango S EVO Crampon guidance for Scarpa Charmoz Just to show I can't say quit til I've obsessively stressed over each detail, here's a couple write-ups I found and was wondering if anyone agreed/disagreed with the comments on these two pons: Sabretooth at AlaskaMountaineering.com G12 at AlaskaMountaineering.com Found some other reviews here: Sabretooth at REI G12 at REI Sabretooth at Backcountry.com G12 at Backcountry.com Sabretooth at Trailspace.com Sabretooth at OutdoorReview.com G12 at OutdoorReview.com Vendor page for the Black Diamond Vendor page for the G12 An oddball here, a review of the Stubai Light

Sounds like so far nobody really advocates the Contact pons, and instead would recommend aluminum unless you're exposed to a lot of rocks. Several prefer the G-12 to the Sabretooth, but I was wondering if there was anything more specific about the difference, like weight, grip, ease-of-attachment, durability, balance, fit, bots, versatility, etc. Thanks for the feedback so far, and interested in anything else on these two pons.

I'm looking for suggestions on which crampons might fit needs ranging from use on snowshoeing trips that turn out to need pons for parts of the trip, up to lightweight mountaineering on Baker, Ingraham, Emmons, etc. It would be great if it could span to higher difficulty terrain later, but that's not a requirement at this point. For some of the higher glacier trips (summer only), I'm considering a boot like the Trango EVO Glacier, also, if that's the recommendation. I assume a new-matic is preferred to the hassle and compression of a strap-on, but open to advice. Also open to suggestions on models, but it seems these 3 get high ratings: - Black Diamond Contact - Grivel G12 - Black Diamond Sabretooth Not sure how much the anti-bott devices are needed, so interested in opinions on that also. Last, is how people like to carry their pons; dedicated carry case, tied on somewhere, protective guards, etc. Thanks for any advice.

Did one more search and turned up these final options. REI Polar Pod, 4 lbs. REI Zenith, just under 4 lbs. Mountain Hardwear Lamina, 4 lbs. Big Agnes Farwell, 3.5 lbs, but like all Big Agnes bags, there is no insulation underneath, just a sleeve for an insulated pad. Link to Big Agnes page for the Farwell. Last is that Big Agnes sells a Primaloft overbag that weighs just over 1 lb and adds 15 degrees of warmth. The Lost Dog.

Not at all trying to be argumentative, but I'm confused. I don't understand what it means to say that the half bag is "figured out", but need something for "cold and wet". Are you saying that a synthetic half bag & jacket is *not* good for wet nights, but a synthetic full bag is good? Why is the temp 32 degrees *below* freezing, but wet is going to be the big issue? Is it because the weather may change from night to night? I'm assuming the bag would be in a dry sack during the day. Also assuming if it's wet at night the tent is waterproof, properly vented, and the wet clothes are not on top of the bag. There's no free lunch here. Primaloft Sport is your best bet. The oz/yard is basically the only issue, with the shell & lining fabric having little affect on the temp ratings. I noticed that Sierra Designs and The North Face both leave out the oz spec for the Primaloft, making me suspicious (TNF even calls theirs Primaloft, when it really must be Primaloft Sport). That plus those two companies have nowhere near the reputation for quality and severe condition gear as Integral and Wild Things. These are the only bags that meet your required specs, but again, I'm suspicious they are being optimistic about their temp ratings. Primaloft: TNF Pyxis Polarguard Delta: TNF Snowshoe I would note again that the Volt with the Primaliner meets your specs, and is a much more versatile solution, and much more likely to be a true zero degree setup. Finally, Sierra Designs has a Polarguard Delta Nahche rated to zero, but it's almost 4 pounds. Again, not trying to criticize, just trying to be cautious and help pick the best solution for an important need.