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Bill Slugg

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Everything posted by Bill Slugg

  1. post deleted by billslugg
  2. I agree with Ranniece and kevbone. Racism is the belief that there are inherent (genetic?) differences between the races that determine their level of achievment. Usually the believer considers their own race to be superior. Sometimes the belief includes the presumption to rule over the other races. In the case of the party, there was blackface, mock grillz, and stuffed butts here. I suppose they could argue that they were EMULATING, not MOCKING, but that would probably be a hard sell, considering they have already apologized.
  3. That is fantastic. What I wouldn't do to experience that. What temperature is it at 20,000 feet? How do you keep warm at night? How do you get enough sleep?
  4. virendra7 An excellent approach and prudent backoff on Mt. Washington. I did Lion's Head in Jan '78 on a clear calm day and laid on the summit in my skivvies smoking a butt with the smoke raising 20 feet straight up. On the other hand, I've cornered the 4 mile post on the auto road where the wind lifted and flipped me backwards, even though I was sans pack, on my face, on the ground, with crampons and hand axes. At 120 mph, you cannot breathe. If your mouth is into the wind, your lungs stay inflated. If your mouth is against the wind it is deflated. It is a moot point to suggest some sort of oscillatory mouth movement since the cold and wind and eye moisture freeze the inside of your goggles, obviating vision. Removing the goggles only causes your eyelids to freeze shut.
  5. kevbone I got about 5 or 10 half slides in one of my boxes somewhere. They were from 35,000 feet and basically show black on white. One slide might cover 10 miles by 10 miles. Of little climbing value. I remember thinking - Damn, what would it be like to be down there in summertime with 20 hours of light, in good weather, on unnamed routes on unnamed peaks, just slammin' em out. (With, of course, daily helicopter supply of fresh fruit, hookers, and the Philadelphia Bulletin). I remember a Nat'l Geo article about 10 years ago referencing a south facing granite (?) face on the northern tip of Greenland that was found to have plants on it.
  6. In 1970, at age 17, with the permission of my parents,I was recovering from a summer of stumbling through the Alps. Icelandic happened to pass over the Southern end of Greenland. I took some photos. Later, I was able to correlate the photos with some maps I found in the library at Penn state. Thar's a bunch of good climbing thar boys. edited 1-16-07 to correct spelling, add additional comments.
  7. Bill Slugg

    MLK

    I live in Albany, GA. Dr. King held a protest here in the early 60's and spent a few nights in jail as a result. We desegregated in the early 70's and had mostly worked through the problems by the early 80's. The police chief at the time was Laurie Pritchett. I bought a piece of land from one of the Pritchetts about 15 years ago.
  8. Bill Slugg

    Nucular Weapons

    Bush claims it's legit since Eisenhower said it that way too. He is a PR moron. That is the first thing I would have fixed.
  9. TimL I would like to second your nominations of: High Exposure CCK Lime Light Arrow I did these in the 70's. I have particularly fond memories of Arrow. I just remember that it was absolutely straight up.
  10. OK all you youngsters. Chamonix, August 1970, we were eating napkins flavored with mustard.
  11. I have found the following bumper stickers to be effective: "My kid is an honor student at an Al Qaida training camp" "If you can hit me with a Soviet Era RPG you are driving too close" "Caution - Show camels on board" PS - leave nothing in it, unlocked, leave the keys in the igniton, and secrete the distributor rotor.
  12. I led an unguided team up the Hornli Ridge in 1970. What a huge pile of loose rock! We got so damn lost I can't tell you. We ended up on the East Face, cowering, as supersonic rocks flew by, dislodged by people near the summit. Backing off is easy, you can see the wear marks below you. You can't see em going up. I recommend a guide.
  13. My wife is upset at the damage to her $900 Rice Bed. Its a California King, carved mahogany, with 6 foot posts. (The rice plants carved on the posts give it the name) DAMN her. She knows I can't sleep unless I'm tied in. I abandoned the 11 mm Fantasia Perlon when we got married, and moved to double 8mm. She still claims it scratches. Several times she has claimed that the center mark gives her hives. Once she cut me a new one when she found a Leeper pounded into the head board. Since I've been tossing nuts into the gap between the phone and the alarm clock, but I can't be sure of their security. I was thinking of a snow anchor in her pile of Mademoisele magazines. Suggestions please?
  14. Are you saying that since they went climbing - they died? Was it God's will? I've gone climbing and I haven't died. Maybe they made some mistakes from which we can learn. I prefer to think that one's chances of returning are linked to knowledge and practice.
  15. At the risk of elevating the level of discussion to that of rank speculation, and having read this thread and reviewed the media coverage I offer the following assessment of their mistakes: - They had no experience on Mt. Hood. In itself, not necessarily a problem, but they were unable to find the Pearly Gates in a high wind/whiteout/severe rime ice situation. - Their food/fuel/clothing did not seem to match the severity of the weather forecast. - They split up. Comments?
  16. I agree. 1.2 oz is a theoretical minimum. It assumes that MSR data is correct, that the snow is at 32 deg F, that ambient temp is room temp, that you don't need hot drinks or cooked food, no fuel is spilled or evaporates, no fuel is needed to start the stove.
  17. I read the White Spider when I was 16 then at 17 I took the railway up to the Jungfrau and stood at von Allmen's window and gazed upon the North Face. It was scary, icy, foggy, vertical, overhung. Loose rock everywhere. Very impressive.
  18. The Swiss failed on Everest in 1952 because they allowed only 3 pints of water/person/day. The British, in 1953, allowed 5 pints and were successful. The heat required to melt 1 pound of snow is 144 BTU's. To raise to the boiling point (at sea level) adds another 180 BTU's. MSR lists the XGK as raising 16 liters of water to boiling per 11 oz bottle of kerosene. I assume that they started with room temperature water. If they started with melted snow then it would only boil 13 liters. In terms of melting snow, the same stove/fuel amount would provide 20 liters (44 pints) of 32 degree water. Therefore 11 oz of fuel would provide 5 pints each for 9 people for 1 day. This is about 1.2 ounces of fuel per person per day. Bear in mind this will only provide cold drinking water, and does not provide for hot drinks or cooking.
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