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Everything posted by tvashtarkatena
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Why it's a cone hone meetin'!
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I just logged onto this contentious thread to make it more so. I couldn't get through 10 pages of '3 cups'. What a fawning, aggrandizing piece of shit. That alone is enough for me to hate Mort. K's books, on the other hand - great reads, every single one.
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Favorite climbing pack for ski mountaineering ?
tvashtarkatena replied to PandaExpress's topic in The Gear Critic
Timely thread! My Speed sucks as a ski pack! -
NICE. I was fantasizing about hot waxing my skins somehow on the way up yesterday. Thanks for the link.
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Favorite climbing pack for ski mountaineering ?
tvashtarkatena replied to PandaExpress's topic in The Gear Critic
I'm also in the market. RE: the Revelation: I assume the shovel goes in the back pocket, no? Also - the velcro side straps. Any probs that them coming undone with skis+boots or no? -
Never been to Pakistan, but the missing cash in Iraq was front page news for weeks. You may have missed that, however.
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Globstopper's what I've been using, but it failed in these particular conditions.
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Yup, finally gonna get that back hair taken care of. Oh, and I need some backup for the purple stuff - the snow had an affinity for it, yesterday. I used to use maxiglide. Any recommendations?
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Has anyone actually rapped with a dulfersitz?
tvashtarkatena replied to keenwesh's topic in Climber's Board
What Stewart said. -
What does this contraption do? I'm picturing a forlorn pyrate suspended over the Thames in an iron maiden, but that would probably be more than 200 lbs.
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Don't sue me if it breaks! Best of luck, brah.
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Nice job on the marathon!
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I assume 200lb is the load. Don't know if this mod is possible, but here's one way to reduce the stress on that stop line if that becomes necessary. Running the stop line under the pulley and tying it off the the left might even be better if the minimum angle (the larger the better) isn't breached. The force on that line is 200lb x 300mm/pulley radius the way its built right now. If this is too elaborate, increasing the stop line pulley radius (see above) would help. Or you could just reverse the system and put the load on the stop line - putting another stop line on the top end of the lever. Load on the load line would be 200 lbs, the stop line quite a bit less. You'd also get much less travel, though. Cables often break at one of the ferrules (crimp points). Make sure the angle between the two cables as they come together at the ferrule is 60 degrees or less and use the proper size crimping tool for the ferrule might also solve your problem if that's what's going on.
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Post a sketch. I have a hunch what your problem might be, but can't really discern what the system looks like from the description.
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The OP is inquiring about cord, not slings. You can (carefully) knot dyneema cord safely.
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Dyneema has a higher breaking strength/dia, doesn't absorb water like nylon, slips a little more (proper knotting can prevent failure here), and isn't nearly as elastic as nylon. Googling will produce a ton of info. Compare the two for your app (static or dynamic). 5.5 nylon is pretty thin stuff to catch a fall with.
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Bckcntry power (of the electrical nature) sltns
tvashtarkatena replied to jesselillis's topic in Climber's Board
By day 3 of being stuck in a 2 man you'll shoot a baby in the face for an Arrested Development rerun. Hell, you'll shoot Baby just to get your partner to stop recycling that story. And you should always be prepared to shoot your partner for over Instagraming your ugly ass. -
Help please! Might need a home for all this beer..
tvashtarkatena replied to LostCamKenny's topic in Climber's Board
The approach should cure that quickly. -
Public policy made EZ.
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Ice is categorized by "Fuck You"s per minute. Styrofoam (this is more a category of snow): 0 FUPM. The lead may be delayed while the leader rubs one out. Plastic: 0 FUPM. You're indoors. They may be old people and children about. Dinner Plate: 1-10 FUPM x 2 (both leader and belayer). Belayer should wear a face mask to protect against blood spatter. Snice: 10-infinity FUPM - usually directed at belayer for wussing out and occasionally punctuated by a Doppler shift.
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"All Obama appointees must pass a battery of tests we wouldn't have a prayer of even cheating on because our intellectual and emotional intelligence was completely calcified by the 3rd grade." - House Republicans
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[TR] North Cascades - Isolation Traverse 3/23/2013
tvashtarkatena replied to hefeweizen's topic in the *freshiezone*
Did you guys exit just the to the right of Pyramid in this photo? -
New Zealand suggestions
tvashtarkatena replied to alpine et's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Meh. Get stoked. NZ is a whole new environment - crafty mountain parrots, beech forests, tree ferns, and my personal favorite, hook grass. If it rains, don't pout, just go kayaking in Doubtful Sound with these guys: Kayaking the Fjordlands Just do what we do here: Be ready to cherry pick your weather, consider the use of aircraft to save time (OK, that's not what we do here usually) and go for it. Note that NZ topos include covered bivvy (typically boulder caves) locations. My guess is that you'll remember the blackflies a lot more clearly than the rain. BTW, although traffic can be sparse, hitching is pretty easy down there. If you rent a car, don't speed. They take that shit very seriously. -
Meh. This is just a Northern Californian's to do list.
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New Zealand suggestions
tvashtarkatena replied to alpine et's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Aspiring has significantly dryer weather than the Cook area. You have enough time to make a run at Aspiring proper - WELL worth it. FWIW I had some rainy weather and some great weather during that time period and was able to get a ton of alpine climbing done. Really glad I brought the gear. I had no vehicle at the time but, being based out of Wanaka for weeks, it wasn't much of a problem. That becomes harder with a larger group of course. If you want to splurge Wanaka has a paragliding school.