mkporwit
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Posts posted by mkporwit
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Same CG as Ropeup. I think they're supposed to be doing stuff right there...
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Marcin,
You're signed up.
Sobo, are you thinking of doing Prussik on Saturday or Sunday? EMR will be doing some fancy rigging on Saturday if that would be of interest to you...
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I thought this was going to be about Rob training to play the part of Jesus in next Easter's Passion...
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BTW, Porter, if there is still no laptop and projector, I have a setup I can contribute...
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In the end, I'm more than open to valid criticisms of hip belaying, but not from people who aren't competent doing one.
Even your comment of "but they have there limitations" smacks of it. How about elaborating on exactly what those limitations are if that's what you think?
Two limitations that spring to mind are
1) can't belay two climbers simultaneously
2) difficult to go hands free or tie off
The first one isn't a big deal often, but when it arises, it is a dealbreaker. The second one is just a big PITA. Tying off a munter to go hands free is a 3 second affair to transfer the load to the anchor.
It has its uses on less than vertical terrain when speed is of the essence. Everything else in climbing has tradeoffs and limitations, and the hip belay is no different.
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In the end, I'm more than open to valid criticisms of hip belaying, but not from people who aren't competent doing one.
Except anyone who criticizes hip belays appears to be incompetent by definition in your book. You're willing to call out genepires despite not knowing anything about what he represents as a climber, and the same goes for others on this thread...
Hip belays have their uses, but they have their limitations, and frankly you're starting to sound like johndavidjr and his wallmart pup tent fantasy... perhaps you two can share a stormy night together in his tent and then belay each other up something steep using hip belays?
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Second that. Did the Tulalips have anything to do with this?
Hmmm, you can sort of see two lips here
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Hey Sobo, I'd be game for hitting Prussik with you...
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Oh, another tool you may want to look into is the CAMP Alpax. I have not used one, but looks very similar to the Venom -- has replaceable picks, both classical and reversely curved, comes in different lenghts, and it has a built-in pinkie rest, which the Venom lacks.
A friend and I climbed Observation Rock on Sunday, and his Alpax seemed to work great for him.
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Swinging two different lenthgs is not a problem. I haven't tried with, say, a 64cm adze and a 50cm hammer, but the 57/50 pair works just fine. In general I prefer the longer tool in my right (dominant) hand, as I have better control over placement with it.
Oh, also, the stock leashes on the Venoms are actually pretty decent, whereas the stock ones on the Evos suck pretty badly.
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I own a pair of Air Tech Evos... bought them off LePiston a few months ago. Liked them, did Adams glacier with them. Got to swing some Venoms this past weekend on some alpine ice... the Venoms are head and shoulders better than the Air Tech Evos. I'll be getting some venoms and putting the Evos up for sale...
As far as length is concerned, both the Venom and the adze Evo can be had in lengths up to 64cm, IIRC. The hammer Evo comes in 50 and 57cm versions, I think. I have the 57cm adze and 50cm hammer. I have been using the adze as a primary ice axe and it mostly works for me. I'm 6' tall...
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I would say Mozy, but I'm biased 'cause I work for EMC...
If all you care about is pictures, Picasa will give you up to 6GB storage per account for free. Flickr will give you unlimited storage for free, but will cap your upload rate. I personally use flickr with a pro account, which gives me unlimited storage and unlimited upload bandwidth. I don't really think of them as a backup, however -- their TOS aren't ironclad enough if I wanted to store something really valuable there...
MKP
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George R. R. Martin's "Fevre Dream"
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I should start prepping the car for the long trips to Hyalite
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Nice... I have two unsuccessful one-day attempts at this. Ran out of time both times. Next time I go it will be for a two-day...
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As a mountie, I should be praising Freedom of the Hills... and it is a good resource. However, for a contrarian, opinionated, and intelligent point of view, check out Connely's "The Mountaineering Handbook"
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[video:youtube]Z19zFlPah-o
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Fer cryin' out loud... quit sprayin and go climb something...
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Ingalls Pass -- Yes
WR Stuart -- Yes, just below LJT
Meany Crest -- Yes
Mt. Daniel -- Yes, on the saddle near the summit
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Mike, I'm looking at doing Triumph, either via the NE or NW ridge sometime in August... ping me then.
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As for the dating pool, I can't help but think Berkeley is going to offer more single, intelligent, active women than Anchorage.
They all braid their underarm hair, tie themselves to trees and are named Dumpster Muffin. If that's what you're looking for, you'll love Berkeley
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Oh, I recognize the line... just combined with the Unabomber/medeival madman look of your avatar pic...
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Not for the battlefield -- corpses abound, with nary a fueling station around.
BTW, creepy avatar and even creepier sig to go with it...
new road trip vehicle?
in Spray
Posted
Fucker Only Runs Downhill