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mkporwit

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Posts posted by mkporwit

  1. I came to this website for the trip reports and stayed for the spray. So, with that qualification...

     

    I'm kind of with Ivan on this. I try to teach a little, climb a little, watch simpletons hump doorknobs (sometimes joining in), haven't trolled this site for partners (yet). Posting here, even in Newbies, requires a bit of a thick skin compared to other sites. Try and see it from the other side of things -- after the 1000th post of "I'm in town for three days, would like to climb rainier, help.", you'd get a little jaded in your responses.

  2. If you're asking about a guide book versus a guide service, then no, Beckey does not cover Mt. Hood. You can check out something like "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes" or any of the myriad trip reports on this website.

  3. Yep, that's Zig Zag wall from a month ago -- Everett's Leading on Rock class uses that on the first day of field trip two, precisely because it is not a terribly popular crag and we can have the 8-10 students plus 8-10 instructors there and not bother anyone...

  4. What Toast is saying is that you're focusing too much on the rock pitch (which might be bypassed by doing a class 3 on the summit) and not thinking about glacier conditions, which could be suboptimal in September -- bare and heavily crevassed -- and in any case would require some skills not typically covered in a rock climbing course.

     

    And no, the summit is not bolted.

  5. Trip: Ingalls - East Ridge

     

    Date: 5/29/2009

     

    Trip Report:

    Four of us, including CC's KaskadskyjKozak, tagged the East Ridge today.

     

    We got a late start, leaving the cars at 8:30. That delay was soon compounded by playing Marco Polo in the trees, as the trail disappeared under snow. The snow is continuous above the tree line, and we found it helpful to have snowshoes.

     

    Given the amount of snow, we cached our snowshoes at the base of the access gully and kicked steps up. Soon we were on the rock, scrambling towards the ridge. We roped up at the giant chock stone near the top of the ridge. It looked like we were the first party up there in a while, and we had a couple of close calls with swept from the route by the rope above the chock stone. The that location was also the only place we encountered serpentinite on the entire climb.

     

    The route was pretty clean aside from those first few rocks. Downclimbing into the notches had us wallowing in deep, soft snow, but there isn't too much of that -- a little on pitch 2 and some more on pitch 4. The rest of the route is dry.

     

    The crux took a #4 C4, which KK had fortunately brought along.

     

    Rapped down the south side, retrieved our cached gear and snowshoed out. Got grub at the Cottage Inn in Cle Elum.

     

    Gear Notes:

    Small cams. #4 C4 for the crux, though there looked to be a small crack that should take a green alien? yellow tcu? if you want to leave the boat anchor behind. Didn't lead that move so I didn't have the gear to verify...

     

    Approach Notes:

    Floatation helpful. No crampons. We had ice axes but could have done without.

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