billbob

You guys provide a service that I am using to learn about all kinds of stuff like climbing conditions, techniques, equipment, and how much incredible bullshit that comes from (mostly) the non-climbing public. Bottom line is that if I'm gaining so much from this site then I really need to give back because it's the right and fair thing to do. You just got my 50 bucks but I like to think that I still got the better end of the deal. Thanks and Happy Holidays !!

My girlfriend and I climb Hood in winter every other weekend if conditions indicate moderate weather with no worsening. Certainly this tragedy brings the risks close to home but for us it is part of the deal. What we get out of climbing is truly special and better wordsmiths than I have come up short trying to explain to those not so wanting to venture forth. You just have to be there. I can't wait until next time, I love it that much. There have been great discussions on this site of the risk/rewards, about whether it is preferable to pass away in an old folks home or cancer ward or while climbing. The answers are as individual as we are. The greatest thing about the issue is that we are all free to choose. The few who decide to climb know the risks, have thought about the consequences, and went ahead for reasons of their own. God Bless the mountains and God Bless the mountaineers. May He doubly bless those brave souls, our brothers who come to save us in times of need. KFA PMR

Unsolicited tent story: I had a Trango 3.1 4-season tent until losing it to the winds one dark and gloomy night last month (see Lost and Found forum). It had 5 poles, double wall, good stuff but... the second time out we pitched on a ridge about 9200' on Mt Hood. Winds picked up throught the night, reaching estimated 50mph with gusts hitting 60+. Around dawn two poles broke, tearing the fly to shreds. MH repaired and replaced under warranty, no worries, they were surprised to see the failure. Now that it's gone, I sure don't miss lugging 11lbs of double wall tent up and down. Light is right, for me. Seems like once the winds get to 60+, very few tents are going to remain standing w/o the inhabitants leaning all night against the windward walls rather than sleeping. I'm now learning all about building snow caves. Good luck to you.

We go up Hood every other weekend to train unless the weather is absolutely extreme. Even then, we usually still go. In winter we usually stick to the south side for easy bail-out if needed. This is actually a great way to gain experience in all conditions, to wit, when ice pellets hit your face at 70 mph while the tent blows away along with a hat and mitten, you learn pretty quick. Obviously the purpose isn't to have fun, it's to learn the art of winter mountaineering without getting yourself killed (avoiding avalanche is part of that). The good judgement I'm still learning, as MountainHigh has nicely pointed out. The last thing I would ever want to do is be a hindrance to the searchers. I'm donating to PMR what I can afford and staying home with my hot babe this weekend.

I know you are right, MH, it's just so frustrating to sit around as a local very familiar with this mountain. Guess I'll wait a week or so, becoming avalanche victims this weekend would be poor form indeed.

Just talked to ZigZag Ranger district regarding plans for climbing this weekend. Weather forecast is looking relatively decent and we had planned for the regular bivy at Triangle Moraine area Sat nite w/ SS summit Sun AM. Ranger checked w/ boss if we would be allowed to proceed. Replied they won't prevent us, even if search activities continue. He suggested current avalanche danger is high, also requested we call ZigZag station w/ sitreps. Given the predicted weather improvement for Sat/Sun, including colder temps, we feel avalanche danger may be acceptable for SS route. Probably SAR teams, if search is still underway, will have been and gone by the time we lug the basecamp up to 9500'. We feel bad for the missing climbers and have great respect for those searching.

"The value of the mountains is that of the men who measure themselves against them; otherwise they are no more than heaps of stone". Walter Bonatti

OK, got it. I just have always buried a vertical picket as far as possible and then clipped to the hole just above the snow surface. Never thought to attach to the middle and drag/cut a slot for the wire. Obviously using slings instead of wire would give a wider slot.... Just the excuse I need to go climbing again next weekend :-)

OK, I read the report. I have a Yates picket w/ a wire permanently swaged onto the middle hole. Works great horz. but if it is planted vertically then the wire is gonna pull it up unless you do the Abalokov thing per G-spotter's question (above email). Kinda seems the paper is saying to dig a trench for the wire and then fill it back in, but the snow must get stronger with the rework or else the stake will be weaker and you get to slide for a bit. Is that correct or did I just not get it? The wire on the Yates anchor has a loop at the distal end that can be threaded through the top hole, then out to the tie in point or whatever. Their website doesn't say, guess I'll call. http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/hardware/index.htm#7 Note the paper doesn't delve into other ways to prevent picket failure.... some people like to use the Yates Ice Screamer on pickets in addition to ice screws. I pre-rig the pickets and carry for quick and hopefully sound anchoring. I know, it adds weight and complexity. Still, after watching three guys last June 16 on Hood SS tumble down the chute because their picket pulled out, it seems like a good idea to do everything possible to bolster ice & snow anchors.

I was waiting to get my pics back tonite before posting. Camped Sat nite on the Triangle Moraine at 9,400', nary a whisper of wind all nite, low temp 25F. Sun AM showed the Hogsback to be built up nicely. Talked to a climber heading down Sat who reported the Gates as ice starting approx 250' from the top, he turned back but not before watching "a more experienced ice climber" skate up. I found the snow above 10K to be about as good as it gets. It was truly a great weekend on Hood, who says it's not climbing season ? Saw three guys come up Devils Kitchen on skis and then head up various chutes above, looked like they were having a fine time. pics attached

Do you mean like the way Yates does their pickets? I tried out my new brightly-colored picket and it worked great when horizontal but I don't think I understand how to plant it vertically. Should the wire be routed up and out the lowest exposed hole before connecting to a biner?

I was wondering what you guys think about the commercial aspects of climbing videos and the ? Do you see it as acceptable to freely distribute your footage but anathema to receive money for it? I know there are "Professional Climbers" who work in various non-climbing jobs as well as being guides to paying clients, is there some line not to be crossed in the commercialization of climbing? Is it when it shows up as "Extreme Sports" or some venue wherein the gestalt, the soul of climbing becomes twisted? I was thinking about producing a weekly video show of serious climbs, starting in the NW and ending in Alaska. Big sponsors, full sponsorships, big name narrator, etc. Sounds like fun to me but damn, if the climbing community is going to bitch about ruining the sport while making a business out of it, then why bother. This idea would be to make a weekly sportscast-type show, not a screwey drama (K2) or documentary on a south american near-tragedy. The idea is to create a regular, professional, and interesting show about "The Climbs" with more emphasis on the climbing action rather than fictionalized drama around actors. Basically we would send out 3-5 cameramen every Sat/Sun on a challenging route to film, ideally with live broadcast and later available for download. Done well, I think this could provide employment for a dozen camera/sound/support people having good climbing experience as well as payment to the climbers on the route. Would it diminish the sport to have a lightweight crew filming the next ascent of Liberty Ridge or Yocum Ridge, etc. only to be watched by fatass couch potatoes who can barely tie their own shoes?? What if the climbers were just ordinary climbers, would that be more interesting than watching pro's? Both? What about when we break for commercials ? Gets kinda sticky there, huh? If it were successful in getting an audience outside of the climbing world (general sports population) such that even bigger sponsors could be gotten, the spin-off shows into the the Alps/SA/Himalayas might go forward, but would that be a truly good thing? Is climbing just for climbers? Do you want to show others and share the reality? Is it even possible to do something like this and not come off looking like an idiot or worse?

Hey All, was checking out the weather on Hood at the Timberline Lodge site, they recently added a new link that looks cool, wanted to share. Check out Snowforecast.com

Friday Nov 17, Hood S. face above Palmer lift, 6PM, gusty conditions, 18F: While attempting to anchor tent it blows away down a very icy Palmer snowfield. Attempts to retrieve called off by scared gf "Wait, don't leave me!". OK, so call me shit-for-brains (or not) but I sure would appreciate it if anyone finding a nearly-new orange/grey MH tent would PLEASE tell me. I sure don't have another $500 to buy another. Meanwhile, I'll be the guy practicing on his snow cave construction.

I was bivied Fri nite on the route just above the Palmer lift, he must have walked past us on the way but we never saw him. Probably I was still too pissed about watching my Mt Hrdwre Trango 3.1 tent go flying off in the foggy darkness en route to the White River. Heard that the kid made it up to the Gates and was wondering if he made it all the way. At least the expected punishment would have been worth it ?

Portlander w/ equipment looking for good weather and experienced climbing partner on Hood next Wed-Thurs-Fri. Route TBD, am up for multiple attempts.

Illumination Rock looking down from Crater Rock... Oct 21 7:30 am temp 31F

Camped by the S route climbing trail last Sat at 9,600', heard a steady stream of rockfall until after dark. Sunday walked around Crater Rock to the Hogsback, good cramponing practice. The area left of the chutes looked OK but rising temps and renewed rockfall (microwave-sized boulders bouncing down from CR across the trail) saw this newbie running away to safer slopes. Maybe next month? Pic finally posted as attachment.

Nice pics, great post.

Geez, I'm suprised by the knowledge base here, expected a ton of spray or adolescent jokes, was almost afraid to post the query. Nice to know there are intelligent people here, cerebral hypoxics notwithstanding.

Well, I heard that Viagra is supposed to help "high altitude performance", but exactly what does that mean? Is this a common med ?

Cloud Cap is open again. Labor day weekend saw a large group practicing crevasse rescues on Eliot, also a tent just above the heavily-crevassed area. Lots of cheering from the group... Up on the Snow Dome the surface was mild suncups and crevassed at the upper portion. Lots of running water to be had, not too hot.

Went up to Barrett Spur last Sat, the icefall potential is something to behold. Didn't go out anywhere near the fall zone. Suggest viewing from afar. Note that if the hanging glaciers dont kill you, the mosquitos will.

Was hoping to take my son to Hood and do the Sunshine route but with the heatwave this weekend, maybe not. Anyone been up this week ? Just sounds like it could be a while until conditions are decent again on Hood.

Was wondering, if you use a prusik while rapping with a double rope, or if you need to put on and use said prusik to stop/climb up, well, you put it on both ropes, right?