jfreeburg

Climber dies on Rainier Any beta? My thoughts are with the family.

There are dozens of other peaks off I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass that are great dayhikes. I scrambled up Alta on Friday and any of those peaks around the pass are do-able. Just get a map and almost any peak off I-90 will have some sort of boot trail or scramble route up to it. Off Highway 2 there is Baring, Persis, Merchant...pretty much the same thing. Lots of summits, only limited by your imagination.

I guess it's all about preferences. My boss would prefer to work on issues that he can have an impact on. He doesn't believe in grandstanding. By your logic, perhaps they should contact Senator Cantwell or Murray, or heck President Bush. I'm just saying, contact the right person and you are more likely to get the result you are looking for.

I work for Senator Paull Shin - but this is not a state deal. If someone calls the office with a non-state deal, I'll call the appropriate person at the office they have a problem with and have them deal with it. It's not passing the buck, it's going to the source and being efficient. If the laws need to be changed, then we may step in. Otherwise, this is a local issue best dealt with by local elected officials, not state legislators. Furthermore, if they want to bring in a lawyer and sue the sheriff's office, elected officials can't get involved in legal issues - it's called checks and balances. I think getting the media involved may be a good way to find some resolution. The inaccuracies that CC'ers love to cite all the time are almost always small and relatively insignificant to the general public. The media isn't always right but they do a good enough job to get some attention to an issue when its needed.

Don't contact your state legislator. I work for one and we get requests for help all the time. We can do some stuff, but only if it relates to a state agency. Since it was the county sheriff that you had a problem with, contact your Snohomish County councilperson. They can request that the sheriff's office look into the situation and see if all laws were properly followed but they can't ask the sheriff to go easy on you.

I'm headed up Rainier (Emmons-Winthrop Route)this weekend. Any thoughts on whether or not we should bring snowshoes with us? We won't be skiing.

I wasn't trying to make it sound easier than it really is to achieve change, just giving people a general direction to go on. If the government is ineffective, it's because enough people haven't voiced their displeasure to it. Don't blame the government for not meeting your personal needs. Blame yourself for not making this country one you want to live in.

I have contacted my legislators on numerous occasions about a variety of concerns... the response has always been a cordial form letter or quaint hand-written note and never (despite the promise) any follow up... If you think it's as easy as just writing a letter to your legislator and then things will change, you've been smoking some great weed. With your line of thought (or lack thereof), it would just take a phone call from one angry resident of Icicle Creek Canyon to shut down climbing there. Of course that's not fair! You have to have a movement- groups of people who arrange meetings with their representatives, ask why things are the way they are and then figure out how to change them. Climbers can write letters to the State Parks Department, asking that they keep the Pinnacles open longer or we can just go around pretending we know better than everyone else. If you want to spray, go spray somewhere else. If you want to climb, well do something about it. It's not a matter of being a part of a group or not. It's a matter of getting off your ass and doing something. Quit your bitching!

If people were really interested in getting the state to keep the park open for a few more months, it's possible. They dropped the parking fee this year because they got lots of complaints and had more money to pay the bills. The state has some more money now- and like MattP says, it would just take climbers getting organized to get this changed. I really don't think it would be incredibly hard. I work for a state senator, so I'm not just speaking out of my ass. Your legislators set policy for state departments - just let them know what you want.

Anybody been up the South Ridge recently? How are the snowfields up high? You suggest crampons? And what about water? Any beta would be great.

I was just up there today and found another mammut spectre sling w/ biner. Was that yours? It was on a horn at the top of the down climb after the crux. I sure didn't like that choss pile of an approach. And not a lot of spots to place pro. Fun traverse though.

It's definitely worth carrying a fly rod up there. I'm no expert when it comes to what flies to use, but any selection from the above thread should land you some nice rainbows. I don't think the lakes see that many fishermen, so with some time and energy, you'll be fine. I just hope you don't have the same narly wind that I had last week.

Who knew climbers know so much about fishing? I had a great trip up there, but the winds were a bi-atch. They let up during the day, but I was out climbing (West Ridge of Prusik, South Face? of Boxtop, and South Face of High Priest) so I didn't get enough chances to break out the fly rod. I caught one on a mosquito and my friends caught a few on a woolly bugger. I only fished at Inspiration but I think they caught theirs at Vivianne. I really wish I could have had more time to fish (or had time to learn how to cast in the wind). The gusts would have made it difficult for anyone I think though- up to ~25 mph.

I'm going with a few guys who are bringing their spinners. And being only a newbie to fly-fishing myself, I'm sure they'll take a few more than me. We might have to switch if I can't land any.

I saw some great looking fish up there last summer on a day hike and since I've got a few days to spend up there this time, I figured I might as well bring a rod. I know the fish are up there, and if I can catch something fresh for dinner on my fourth night out there, so be it. Thanks for the advice. I'll check out a fly shop today and see what they think. I'm a little worried though that it's been so warm recently they won't be too active.

Anybody know what the fishing is like in the Enchantments now? I'm guessing the lakes have melted out (maybe not though?) and I'd like to bring my rod on a 5 day trip this week. Any suggestions for what flies to bring? I know it's single hook/ barbless but any thoughts would be appreciated.

I told my buddy that I wanted to buy his rack. I asked him what he wanted for it and he told me to make him an offer. He's probably checking out CC as well trying to figure out what he should take. I'm not trying to rip him off, just find a fair price for both of us.

Well, he's got a job, I've got a job, but he has 2 racks and I have none. I might make a little more than him (he doesn't work full time), but he has more time off to go climbing, so he should feel bad for me. In all fairness, he should sell it to me for real cheap.

I've been borrowing a rack from a friend for the summer and now I'm thinking I'd like to buy it from him. Nothing had been fallen on before I got it-the nuts were new, hexes slightly used, and cams used. Everything is in good condition. What's a fair asking price? 50% of original price? 65%? I think the new price of everything is about $650.

I didn't see any bears on Diedre. How'd you know I climbed there? It's not like anyone else goes there. We made it to the start of the climb around 7am on Sunday and had only 2 groups ahead of us (we passed another on the trail up since as they got off track). By the time we topped out, there was a group at every belay station as well as some waiting at the bottom. It pays to get up early if you don't want to be sandwiched in between groups. Saturday we climbed at the Smoke Bluffs. Only after deciding on Burger and Fries did we see the note about it being one of the most popular slabs in Canada. But there's so many routes up there, we never had to wait to climb. We also did a 5.9 (Old Age) next to the Zombie Roof. It's a great mix of slab, crack, and chimney at the top. So we were just one of the many this weekend, but an absolutely great time had by all. Don't miss the yam fries at the Howe Sound Brewpup- almost better than the climbing.

Had a great weekend up there. Friday night we camped off the road to the landfill (unknowingly) on a mountain bike trail (knowingly). In the middle of the night, we were woken up by a large object coming down the trail (I was thinking/hoping a mad late-night mountain biker or maybe just a deer). In the morning, 2 different groups of runners came by and said they were glad to see we weren't attacked by bears, being that we were just across the street from the landfill. Moral of the story: don't camp off the road to the landfill. It's free, but it's bear country. PS. We camped at the base of Chief Saturday night.

Now any suggestions for routes in the 5.8 - 5.9 range? Sport or trad is fine. I have the 2001 edition of McLane's guide, but it's a lot to look through.

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I'll be sleeping with my cams next to my pillow.

What's it like up there? Are there places to dirtbag it? Is it possible to find a place late on a Friday night? I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend.

I don't know about international flights, but I had a pocket rocket and a fuel canister in my checked luggage when I flew to San Francisco a few weeks ago. I "forgot" about it at the airport and didn't have any problems. The canister was brand new and on the flight back to Seattle (after using it), again, no problems.