jfreeburg

Thanks for all the ideas. We ended up doing Gib Ledges and a trip to Vancouver Island. We had always wanted to do a winter ascent of Rainier but didn't think the weather would cooperate when we had time available. Turns out everything lined up and we went for it. A fun, direct route. After that, we headed up to Strathcona on Vancouver Island. My friend has dreamed about sailing around the island for several years but hadn't actually seen it. We read about some alpine routes up there and thought an international climb was in order. We were shortchanged of ice so no major objectives scaled but we had a fun scramble up some no-one peak near Gold River. Lots and lots of mountains up there and the alpine starts pretty low - around 3500 feet in places. It feels a lot like SE Alaska. Definitely a place to return to.

We are looking for routes in the realm of 4th class, low fifth class. We are Seattle-based so we want to get away from the usual Cascade haunts like the Enchantments. Banff is an option though I think we'd rather be on the move rather than doing 5-6 days of straight ice climbing. Any particularly noteworthy traverses in Banff or Yosemite that would be a good 4 or 5 day trip?

My buddy and I find ourselves with 13 days off starting next week and a roadtrip/climbing trip to be had. Where would you go and why? We are open to anywhere in the west and have winter camping and extensive mountaineering experience. We may hit up Hood (Yocum?), Shasta, and then maybe 5-6 days in Yellowstone. But where would you go? Sierras? Banff? What route and why? We'd love some suggestions of high routes, link-ups, etc and we have some time and energy to get after it. We have skis, snowshoes, and whatever else it may take to get some summits in. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Anything within driving range (meaning western US & Canada is considered in). Thanks!

No, but I've heard you can get about a mile and a half from the Hidden Lake lookout trailhead. I was thinking I'd approach from there.

I'm looking for a partner or two to join me for a climb of the Triad (between Hidden Lake lookout and Eldorado) later this week. While I'm guessing it could be done in a day, I'm thinking it would be more fun to do a 2 day climb. Approach Wednesday and summit Thursday. Likely on snowshoes, but I could do skis too (I'm just getting into backcountry skiing, so I'd need to be convinced an average skier could do this trip). I'm also available for future mid-week multi-day climbs/scrambles/backcountry ski trips.

Interested in a climb/ski of Corteo or Black Peak tomorrow? I'm in good shape (headed to Denali in 2 weeks) and looking for a steady pace. Not a strong skier, but very experienced on snow, steep slopes, etc.

Interested in a climb/ski of Corteo or Black Peak tomorrow? I'm in good shape (headed to Denali in 2 weeks) and looking for a steady pace. Not a strong skier, but very experienced on snow, steep slopes, etc.

Yup - would love to hear from you. Send me a note at jifreeburg@yahoo.com or Two oh six -245-0059.

Vagabond and Nostrand, I sent you private messages. Please check and contact me if interested.

Still looking for partners. I've sent private messages to the folks who replied so far, but haven't heard anything back. Perhaps old fashioned cell phones are better? Text me at 206-245-0059 and let's set up a time to grab a beer and/or discuss via phone. Thanks, Jim

PMs sent.

Interested in a one day trip Saturday? Perhaps Observation Rock or another one day steep snow climb?

My team of three is looking to expand our team for a West Buttress attempt next year. We are three brothers who have committed to this project and we'd like to bring on a few more climbers or join another rope team. We will be doing a series of training climbs over the next year and we'd like to have potential partners join us on one of those climbs to ensure we are a good fit. Our next training climb is mid-June. Location TBD but will likely be Grade III. Our Denali plan is a late May start (one of us is a teacher) on snowshoes. We are relatively experienced - 40+ glacier climbs between us. Happy to grab a beer with you to discuss further. I live in Seattle and work in Olympia so anywhere nearby is ideal. One brother lives in Kenmore (the other is in San Jose), so those are options as well.

I just took a job in Olympia, though live in Seattle. I'd be up for some after work hikes in the Olympics or other training routines - 6-10 miles runs, etc. Either of you interested? My weekends are a little tough through March, but open back up again in April. Perhaps grab a beer one evening to touch base first?

Do you still have the rental boots for sale at Alpine Ascents?

My brother and I are thinking of heading up to McClellan this weekend if the weather allows. We thought we'd get up to the Stuart range by taking the ridge that's north of Ingalls Creek, traversing up from the Ingalls Creek trailhead. Anyone been up there via that route? Our family has a cabin in the area and we've always talked about getting into the Enchantments from this side.

Trip: TR - Shuksan Attempt - Sulphie Glacier Date: 5/12/2012 Trip Report: A long planned trip took a few of us into the alpine this weekend, despite the avalanche warnings. We knew there were risks, but knew we'd be cautious and use our best judgement to figure out what's safe and what's not. The incredible forecast turned out to be true and we saw hardly any signs of sliding, so it was a great trip. We had a late start to the approach Friday and with the soft snow, it was slow going towards Sulphide Glacier. We had snowshoes for 4 out of 5 of us (luckily), and used them as we approached the pass but decided against them for the traversing that needed to be done to approach the glacier. We decided to camp around 5700 feet. We started moving again around 3:30am to great conditions - solid, firm snow and the mountain to ourselves for now. There were some ski tracks that looked to be from earlier in the week, and a few tracks from critters, but not much other else up there. As we approached the summit pyramid, we knew it was going to be a challenge. We had a few newbies with us and didn't bring ice tools. We should have - the gully was pretty packed and plenty steep. The skiers may or may not have turned around where we did (at the base of the gully, 1/3 of the way up the pyramid) - if they continued, their tracks from front-pointing weren't visible. It was a bummer to turn around without a summit, but it was the right choice. The snow was softening up quite a bit on the way down and we didn't want to be under anything soft longer than we had to be. As we were headed out, a group of 11 (Boealps?) had just crossed over the pass. We passed along a report of the pyramid conditions, though their leader didn't seem to think the gully would be a problem for them as they'd be there at sun-up (he did it last summer and it's no big deal apparently). It wasn't summer conditions, that's for sure. I'd be curious to hear their report. I can't imagine 11 people in that gully, without a second tool, in early spring conditions. A great trip - no signs of major slides, no falling cornices, though we got in and out early in the melt cycle. Not a single crevasse showing on the glacier. It was definitely warming up on the way out Saturday though so I'm sure things will change rather quickly up there. Approach Notes: Road blocked by snow about a mile from the trail head.

I'm hoping to head up to Shuksan tomorrow (up the Sulphide) but I saw the NWAC's gnarly forecast for the spring thaw cycle that warns against backcountry travel in avy terrain this weekend. Can anyone tell me what the slopes are like up there? I talked to a ranger at Marblemount who warned of some potential cornices above the toe of the glacier, but I'm wondering if there is something else to be concerned about. The guy I talked to didn't have much information personally. Does the summit pyramid ever slide? I climbed it maybe 10 years ago so I don't have the route fresh in my head. Any suggestions of similar (safer?) routes to try Fri-Sat?

Some of your questions can be answered at http://discoverpass.wa.gov/faq/ All revenues from the pass will go towards upkeep at state parks, DNR, and WDFW. And if you want to know how taxes have grown over the last 15 years, check out this graph: http://budgetandpolicy.org/images/copy_of_102010_budget_sharePI.png Spending per person isn't a good way to look at government growth because per capita income has obviously exploded over the last 50 years. Of course government has grown over the last 50 years as well. It didn't take a college education to succeed 50 years ago. Life-saving (and expensive) health care procedures weren't available 50 years ago. And we probably didn't have paved roads and composting toilets on our public lands. Things are just more expensive. I know the Mounties aren't favorites on this board, but you actually should thank them for helping to keep state parks open at all. (http://mntrs.blogspot.com/2011_05_01_archive.html) Without the pass, state lands would be closed. Parks and public lands aren't the highest priority when the legislature is trying to also pay for prisons, courts, schools, public health, health care for people with disabilities.... Paying taxes and user fees aren't my favorite things to do, but there's a price on everything and I'd rather be able to enjoy public lands than see a closed sign out there.

I'm headed up to Rainier next week for a shot at the Sunset Amphitheater and I'm curious about the weather radio coverage on the west side of the mountain? I've checked out this map: http://www.nws.noaa.gov/nwr/Maps/PHP/site.php?State=WA&Site=KHB60 and it looks like there is coverage around Rainier, but I'm not completely sure. Anyone else used a weather radio up there? We are giving ourselves a few days to wait for the best weather window but it'd be nice to have current updates on the mountain. I know the weather is always variable up there, but the more information the better I figure.

I toproped a line at Franklin Falls on Monday. The main falls is still flowing - I don't know if it ever freezes up. We were almost all the way left on a solid bit. I don't have a photo of the line we climbed but it was WI 2. For a bunch of newbies, it was a good time. Setting up the top rope required a little work, but it was worth it.

A friend and I tried to scramble up Chair Peak yesterday but it was too icy in the west gulley. We saw a single climber on the northeast buttress - he could have been with someone else. The climber was near the summit when we were headed down around 2pm. We also talked to two climbers approaching the east face at the same time. They were getting an awfully late start. As we were getting back on I-90, we saw a Seattle SAR truck headed up that way. Besides that, it was a beautiful day up there.

thanks for looking. perhaps it fell out somewhere else on the way down. i could have sworn it was on the summit. there is at least a six pack waiting for whoever finds it.

Pwelco something or other - thanks for the TR. Twas a great trip. I'll be happy to tip anyone who brings back that camera. It's not worth too much but has some great photos I'd appreciate. The weather couldn't have been any better for the climb - it was drizzly Friday night and even early Saturday morning but burned off by Saturday afternoon. Thanks Pwelco for letting us share ropes. Hope your wife believes that you really do need a new rope. As long as the high schrund hangs together, the route should stay in good shape for at least a few more weeks. Once that last bridge falls, it will require at least 15-20 feet of vertical ice. Not as much rock fall as I would have thought. Doesn't mean I'd be taking off my brain bucket though. Happy climbing...

I was up on Jefferson this past weekend and left my camera on the summit block. It's an Olympus point and shoot, in a black case. I can't imagine there are too many others up there. If you find it, please let me know. I'll come up with some sort of reward. I'd do a trip report for the climb but I don't have any photos to share. I ran into another CC'er - Paul something or other- up there. He said he was going to post a report, but I haven't seen it yet. We went up the Jefferson Park glacier - great climb!