geoff
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Posts posted by geoff
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Beacon sucks. That entire choss pile should be cleaned off the face of this earth.
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Jessep: You want a forum?
Kevbone (Tom Cruise): I think we're entitled to one.
Jessep: You want a forum?
Kevbone : I want the forum!
Jessep: You can't handle the forum! Son, we live in a world that has walls. And those walls have to be climbed by men with gear. Who's gonna do it? You? You and Veronica Hardbody? I have a greater moderator responsibility than you can possibly fathom. You weep for Stewart and you curse the cracks he fell from. You have that luxury. You have the luxury of not knowing what I know: that Stewart's injuries, while tragic, probably saved lives because folks now stop at Ozone. And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, saves lives...You don't want the forum. Because deep down, in places you don't talk about at parties, you want me on that wall. You need me on that wall.
We post to threads with words like honor, code, loyalty...we use these words as the backbone to a life spent ascending something. You use 'em as a punchline. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and falls under the shadow of the very climbs I provide, then questions the manner in which I provide them! I'd rather you just said thank you and went on your way. Otherwise, I suggest you pick up a rack and put one up. Either way, I don't give a damn what you think you're entitled to!
Kevbone : Did you chop that bolt?
Jessep: (quietly) I did the job you sent me to do.
Kevbone : Did you chop that bolt?
Jessep : You're goddamn right I did!!
Jessep : Bacon forum? You can't handle a friggin' bacon forum!
I thought it was Xavier Masters, the Beacon years.
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I'm guessing there would be some PBR. But, can you really call that beer?
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Seems like yall need to get a room. Just sayin....
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Thanks dude. Go get it. Stickclip was useful.
Ben tells me about Snibble T everytime we go climbing. I'm assuming you been on top and not just in its shadow. That traverse start option seems sweet on its own.
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That's right. We aided it.
I climbed P1 and Ben frenched P2. Everything else was full on aid climbing.
Ben wasn't sure about a free ascent. I figure someone could probably do it. At this point you should plan to mostly free solo P3 and P4 cause them bolts ain't holding a fall.
The Tombstone Wall pitch was awesome with awesome rock. It could use 10 or more gold camelots. Was raining and almost dark so neither of us even tried, 10d is a few grades out of my reach anyhow. The ledges at the top were cool.
There was good rock but it seemed to be on either side of the climbing line. The new bolts were solid. The old bolts were old. Lots of SMC hangers with rust bubbling through the shiney metal. A few new bolts to replace some old ones would make this route more reasonable.
Bill, those old timers are hard core. I wonder if that happened at that ledge or at another old belay. If so, those bolts looked like they had been replaced and not that bad. One anchor, probably the one mentioned in the book as top of P3 in an alcove, had like 6 of the crappiest bolts ever.
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Sweet route.
Here's all the folks on Moscow.
Ben charging up P2.
Looking down P2.
The hand traverse.
Fixed nut on P4.
Looking down P3-old belay ledge 20 feet below.
The rest of the route from top of P3.
Ben during happy times. We're going down for beers.
The route from ground. Ropes fixed to top of P3.
Ben preparing to rap.
Day 2. Didn't make it very far on P4 til I opted to be lowered back down to some decent gear.
Ben taking care of business on P4.
Money pitch. P5.
Nice belay perch. Complete with Ivan style tunes.
Um, we better get moving.
Nice work on bolt replacement. All anchors were bomber. P3 and P4 were scary.
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Trip: Monument - Abraxas
Date: 10/24/2009
Trip Report:
Abraxas on the Monument, seen below, kicked my ass.
More photos to come.
Gear Notes:
Wing, a prayer and a few more days might help.
Approach Notes:
Sweet.
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And it isn't even his real name.
As for JH's post, I agree that Bill Coe is more popular today than ever.
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And, after you hit up the Grack you could walk (quickly) through the DZ to Harry Daley. You get to climb two or so pitches to get to the start (and also back down) and then the anchor is like one cam a bit off the deck (ledge) but it is similar grade to Grack and fun and close to pizza and beer.
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Well, since the man isn't on this board to explain to Kevbone what he has told me about Kevbone, and others, on several occassions, "He's missing the entire trip."
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I say thee is making sense.
He already got busted by the train police. Now the internet police is on his ass. If Donnie don't believe maybe he give us his own TR on that crag.
True or not, like fables, there is a lesson to be learned. Brand new and shiney signs are a good indiator folks are serious about sending a message.
BTW, judges often appoint attorneys in criminal cases, like it or not. And, clips? That's what they are, right? Clip up, clipper.
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No clothes and nature taking its course.... I hope Kenny and JP are alright.
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Yeah Pink I could stand to lose a few pounds but you'll always be a
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I thought that said "Yos Wide Tour - A Short Bus"
Anyhow, Snake Dike is a worthy objective on its own. I once flew down there specifically to climb it. Looking up at the start from Camp 4 it was plain to see without a team of Sherpas I would have never even made it the base.
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Yeah Kev, I think that is a different website. Look for Ivan's family outing TRs the next time you visit http://www.trianglemommies.com/.
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Certainly not over in SE.
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Do locals want a say in how climbing at Beacon will be managed when the BRSP gets back ontrack with revising the CMP? If so, at some point someone will have to participate in the process (Kenny? Bryan? Bill? Who?). But do the status quo - and you'll get the status quo, or more likely, worse.
You're not in the military anymore, dude... you can stop using the silly acronyms, now!
Kenny -
Looks like the man
Acts like the man
Not the man
Really, JH is just tryin to help keep the rock open and reasonably safe. Noble and good causes if you ask me, which I know you didn't.
I'm sure he would rather turn over the fight to some other local climber but since no one is stepping up, why give him such a hard time?
You don't always have to follow the rules but I've learned that the more you can do to work within the rules/laws/whatever the more likely you will get what it is you want-Kenny JH and Pink to kiss and make up.
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Nice.
Thanks Tyler for all the good work you been doing out there.
One thing to add to the TR is that one of the pitons you get to hang on for P3 has Bill Pratt engraved in it. I guess this is from the FA in 196? Seemed pretty solid.
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Another classic TR Ivan. Good guys to spend a day with but when do the Click and clack - Tappet Brothers weigh in here on the route and the TR?
A little bit later in the day, like now.
Here's some more pics. Thanks to Tyler for reupping the Turkey with some new metal.
Pitch 2
Pro?
Turkey Head
Old bolts
Mounting the Turk
Wrangling
Bridge Bowl
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congrats on being alive - now train up your women, eh? mandatory 24 hour for self-rescue 'fore you go getting The Man in on it!
Yeah, this has happened to me before. I was like, you called who? You got the cops looking for us?
I think of that Onstar. Have you been in a wreck? Who wants to know? Don't you dare call the cops lady.
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I'm sure it was just allergies or something but JP looks a little high in that self pic. It's ok though, I have allergies too.
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Lagavulin is the shit. Can't get enough of it. No water, no ice just Scotch in a glass or right out the bottle.
Wish I had some now. I'll throw a party if Bill brings a suitcase of this stuff.
Reminds me of a party at the Ballroom last year where all the Jack Daniels you could stomach was free. Turns out it's not the cost of JD that prevents me from drinking a bunch of it. It all sucked right down to the single barrel shit. Sorry USA.
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I would say those ratings are a bit high for Beacon. If you use Little Wing and Cruisen as compare, I'd say:
1. 5.6
2. 5.8
3. 5.8
4. 5.8
5. 5.6
Beacon
in Columbia River Gorge
Posted
at that point it will be the government above the government that takes over. they'll give you the ol' front to back - back to front routine. we'll all be f'd.