Trip: Torment/Forbidden Traverse -
Date: 9/7/2007
Trip Report:
Greg and I climbed the Torment/Forbidden Traverse last week. Snow on the second day made the two v. three day decision for us and we bivied at the Forbidden West Ridge notch on night two. Only beta to add: The first rap after Torment goes overhung and then lands you in a 20' deep moat that requires crampons/tools to get out of. The ice traverse was mostly alpine ice, with a short stretch of water ice that took screws. Good access to snow for water at several points along the route.
Great route!
Gear Notes:
Small rock rack, 2 screws, axe, tool and crampons
Approach Notes:
Taboo Glacier is straightforward