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Everything posted by Stewart

  1. How many lead falls can a rope take?

    I recently took a big fall (40-50ft) on a new rope and have considered buying a new one for hard leads. I will still use the rope for moderate's though. Retire according to manufactures guidelines or whenever you ask' "should I retire this rope?" Stewart
  2. ?

    Kevin, Pink point my ass! There's no such thing. That was a project. The FA has been done. Dustin and Martin put it up and somebody else got the go ahead. Very respectable in my opinion. Placing the gear is a small part of that route. In a day where people bitch about bolting this and that. They refrained from bolting. It also looks pretty heady coming out over the roof with the next bolt several feet up. If you want to go and on-sight or "redpoint" the route, go ahead, you know where it is! "Pink Point!" Bitches Please! I personally enjoyed the video and have watched it several times, including once with Jim at my house. He also enjoyed it and asked me if I could get him a copy. stewart PS I'm sorry for bitching here. If anyone wants to start a pink point thread, which would be lame, I will join them there briefly.
  3. ?

    God, Jim must have been pressing the name of that route hard. Everytime I did a route he would want me to name it "angle of the dangle" That route is very deserving of it. I only climb 5.9 so not much dangling going on except for "deeess nuuutz!" Stewart
  4. blownout

    Thanks for checkin it out! I'm hoping that Jen or David got it tuesday, but am unsure. Stewart
  5. blownout

    Ahhh! beers and vicoden! Laid up 4-6weeks, then wine harvest begins and i'm pretty busy for the rest of the year. Don't suspect I'll be climbing till January. Anyone who gets the gear will get a liquid reward for sure! Stewart
  6. blownout

    Yeah, I screwed up! I got to an easy section on Blownout and ran it out. Was feeling really good, placed a yellow tcu below what was my crux about 2/3 up on pitch #2. Got into the crux and ran out of gas. Yelled to my partner that I was shaky and to take. I believe when the rope came tight my piece was pulled up. I then decided I should give it a go, at the same time my piece popped and my partner informed me of that. I looked down at my last piece maybe 15-18ft below. Thought "can you place a piece" answer "no, your in a pumped out lie back" That is the nightmare that will stick with me forever. Made one move up to see if I could get a better stance and took the biggest whipper I hope to never take again. ended up 10ft above the anchor upside down. I have replayed in my head over and over what could have been done different. I've come up with a few answers but looks like "blood, sweat and smears" will have to wait till next year. Hairline fracture in Left ankle, partner has rope burn on hand, and one humbling experience to make you appreciate the little things. Thanks to anyone who gets the gear. Just try to remember which one held the whipper. Its going on my wall with my X-rays as a reminder to place more gear and wear a helmet. Stewart
  7. Climbed Gandolfs to the top and saw a bolted line going up the left side, past a roof. Super shiny bolts, runout, at what looks like the crux. Makes me think its an open project. Anyone know about it? Bolts should be painted in my opinion. Stewart
  8. Attacked by a Falcon!!

    I'm Climbing an I here a "swoosh." Then I see the Falcon. I'm checking out the bird as I belay my partner up. Then I notice the Falcon swoop back and is heading right for me. He came within 4ft of me and I was eye to eye with him. He did this for a total of 6 times! Each time getting closer to me. I began using my climbing shoes on a sling to wave around to try to scare him. Finally he just floated away. Ever happen to anyone else? Stewart
  9. beacon - chalk

    Chossy? I thought that route was pretty good! Kind of late on the topic but isn't winter delight a top rope climb that still has chalk on it from last season? That whole wall is Beacon's gym. I thought the rule was chalk balls only. Sport climbers travel from all over the Northwest to climb it. It is a good way to access Bluebird! Will be climbing Dodd's today. Hopefully the bees aren't to bad. Stewart
  10. Barry Bonds

    Did he get the record or tie it yet?
  11. Broughton's -- Bat Wall conditions

    I saw the nest and it is returning to its full glory. It was amazing! Anyone who removes endangered honey bees will get a grip of carma in return. They own the route! Stewart
  12. Beacon open early

    Kevin, all the bolts should be removed, not another one added. The thrill of the potential ride is what makes it great. In my opinion. Sorry pink Stewart
  13. Gear at Broughton

    Kevin, He didn't lead it. That's the point! He wants his gear back cuz he decked. Hope your alright dude. I can bet your gear is gone, but a minimal cost for getting out alive. Stewwart
  14. Beacon open early

    Ivan, Is that a self portrait? You are as sick as I thought you were! See you out there too! Hopefully wearing some pants. Stewart
  15. Beacon open early

    Joseph, I think that we think the same about that pitch. It is the best because you have to be delicate. If I ever do get a cholonic, I would hope the Doctor would be soft and gently, just like I am on the "BUTT HOLE PITCH" It's o.k. to say it! Try saying it out loud by yourself a few times and then try it out in front of other people. I have faith that you can do it. see ya out there on Sunday. Stewart
  16. Broughton's -- Bat Wall conditions

    Hacked my way down to the New Frontier Wall to do some Gorrilla route. The trail is almost completly grown over with poison oak and nettles. Thank god Beacon is open!
  17. New Route?/North Face of Broughton

    Replaced the anchor for P1 2weeks ago. Watch out for poison oak on P2.
  18. Beacon open early

    A-frame feature (also colloquially called the 'butthole' by some, but I can't quite bring myself to that moniker for such a lovely sequence). Joe! Thanks for the phone call about the opening. I was on vacation and wasn't able to get out until this mon. You know its a butthole! The way you reach up into it and the walls feel like there going to scrape off in your hand like a cheese burger that you ate 10years ago. Full on cholonic! Did you get your jacket back from my sis?
  19. Infinite Bliss chopped- true or false?

    Nobody should choppy chop, unless its a bolted splitter. Never been on the route so I can't say for sure. Chopping equals Drama! Less Drama More Climbing! Stewart
  20. Poison oak

    Went out to Broughton last week and my friend Ryan couldn't take the poison oak leaning over the trail at eye level anymore. He put on rubber gloves and pulled a good amount of it off the main trail that heads to the Red Wall. There is still quite a bit on the upward side of the trail but out of reach for now and on the steep trail that heads to the NorthFace. Stewart
  21. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    I know where "They" are!
  22. Leavenworth Suggestions

    Castle Rock all day! Stewart
  23. I am not a newbie to climbing. However, at a local crag there has been a sport climb with a red tag on the first bolt for around two years. How long does the route remain virgin? What are the "rules"? Does hanging a rope reserve your route? If there is no tag or rope is it fair game? My Opinion: I feel that no one person owns the rock, but I would give someone respect if they deserved it. All gear lines are always fair game. Sport routes seem like a fuzzy area. What do you think?
  24. Beacon Rock

    I think the splitter roof is still a project and to date unclimbed, at least free climbed. Stewart
  25. How Long should projects remain virgin?

    Rule #1 Make all attempts to contact developers before poaching a route Rule #2 Always follow Rule #1 Rule #3 After poaching said route, keep it to yourself and move on. Rule #4 When starting a new on-line account, never call yourself Egoboy. Rule #5 Always follow Rule #1 I think we get the idea. As I've said before, Hopefully everyone has learned something. May we all move on to poach route's in a more appropriate way, in the future. Stewart