dinomyte

I was there, what, 2 weeks ago, and there was nothing below 6,000 ft. If you headed toward the SE Ridge of North sis, and then onto the glacier and up to the saddle between North and Middle, you'd still have a nice stretch. If you leave from Pole Creek, you're well past Soap Creek by the time you can put them on. So, it's several miles in, maybe 4, before you're skinning. Check the Oregon forum, Timmy is there all the time.

Our daughter is 7 mos. tomorrow.

Our daughter is 7 mos. tomorrow.

Socked in, but potentially fewer people. Take a waypoint at the TH!

Mine as well. Have a good one!

Mine always center around tents: Setting up a non-free standing tent in blizzard conditions. Rolling up same tent and getting into that damn tiny stuffsack with wet, frozen fingers.

Maybe I'm confused. What TH do you use to go over Long's? And, how do you get to that TH? I thought that the route over Long's actually started at Esmeralda.

I've seen some folks approach Cascadian via Beverly TH and some via Esmeralda TH. Can anyone give me a comparison in terms of distance, gain/loss, etc.? I'd never turn down a route drawn on a topo, either, but I have the one from Beverly on Alpineslider. Since nobody on here actually admits to climbing that route without skis, research has been tough!

ummmm....did you forget another "1" or "9" in that price?

Certainly doable, though I would always recommend a little practice. I was in the area a couple weeks ago. It was melting out quite a bit, and the snow was certainly getting soft in the afternoons. I'd recommend an alpine start.

So, I'm driving home from work and I spot this teal Acura Integra, with a Lucky Lab sticker on the left rear bumper, and on the right rear bumper.....you guessed it, a "Trogdor the Burninator" sticker. I thought for certain it had to be Trogdor from cc - even had a "climber-like" look to him. But, it looks like the cc Trog is from Washington. What are the chances of anyone else having that sticker??!?

Aaron: You can ask questions here individually, and get some great advice. My first couple of climbs were on Adams a few years ago, and I gave a pretty detailed account, including a full gear list. Check out the first couple TR's on my site: http://www.lebre.net/outdoors.html Hope that helps

I love it! Nice pics and a great view of how you ascended the Alley. Thanks!

There's a post called "Posting Pictures" under the "Newbies" forum. You have to enter the "gallery" first, upload your pics, then when you post you can use the camera icon to select pics from your gallery.

Glad to hear you folks made it. And, thanks for posting! If we get another weather window, I'll have to talk my buddy into another trip! Did you happen to use much rock pro in the alley?

Hammer: The standard south side route on Adams is not the Mazamas route. However, in July, it is likely that the trailhead will be practically full. You are very unlikely to be alone, so it will be more of a matter of following the herd than anything else. I have been up Adams multiple times, and I have always taken crampons, though I have not always used them. Your call on that, but I would never recommend that you NOT take them. I have several TRs and a tone of photos on my website. Take a peek if you are interested. Web address is in my profile.

Hmmm....I'm happy for them....kinda like I'd be happy for a friend who just won Powerball! If you happen to talk to him again, I'd be interested in hearing if/how he protected the Bowling Alley. And, ask him if he's interested in another trip in a couple weeks.

Perhaps "stupid question" needs defined. Is it a question that one should know off the top of one's head, but asks anyway? Or is it a question for which the answer could easily be found with a bit of research? I try to avoid the former, but am quite guilty of posting the latter!

Indeed it is. I did come across this re: traversing on the east side of the Camel's Hump. I would recommend against it. From TraditionalMountaineering

John: Thanks for the advice. Our thoughts were that it's a pretty odd time on North right now. You've got snow on the traverse, which is great, but the icy rocky wet alley might be tough to solo. I'm fine with 4th class stuff, having done Thielsen & Washington, along with Jack and Jeff, but conditions in the alley right now give me pause. Still, if the traverse in fall is anything like on Jeff, that's a doozy too! We talked to a guy at the TH that said he had soloed North in September and the traverse had a pretty well worn path. He also mentioned that he found a few spots to place pretty good pro. Oh well, I guess opinions vary. Still, I appreciate the comments.

Paul: Here's a shot that Kevin took that may show what I mean. I went around to the left and under the first hump, then around a rock to the right (from where I am standing). Looking again, I think your red line just circles the camel's hump and stops short of this rock that I went around right. So, perhaps the answer to your question is that I saw people go under to the left, and up over the top of the hump as opposed to around the side that your red line goes.

You know, I'm pretty sure we dropped down and traversed under this on the west side. I think your red line is around what's called the camel's hump. However, on the other side of the camel's hump I think there was another rock that I traversed on the east (maybe the final third of your red line). Maybe someone else can comment, but like I said, we saw a group that went right over the hump and to the end of your red line. And, yes, the bowling alley terminates up at your green arrow.

I forgot to mention that the team that came straight up the glacier passed us right near the Camel's Hump. They climbed right up over the top of it, rather than traversing under. Chris gave them the scoop on the Alley, and they headed on over. I kept checking the summit on my way down, and never saw them top out, but I wouldn't be surprised if they did. I'd love to hear their assessment of conditions in the Alley.

Trip: North Bee-otch Attempt - SE Ridge Date: 6/2/2007 Trip Report: So, after being weathered off by 40 mph winds a couple of weeks ago, Kevin_Matlock and I were back and hungry for a summit, kinda like one of those Guantanamo Bay detainees after a 3-week hunger strike. This time, rather than do a one-dayer, we decided to pack it in to the base of the SE Ridge. We wanted to get up early to hit the traverse while it was as firm as possible, kinda like me when I'm watching I'm watching "Busty Cops" on Skinemax at 11:30 on a Friday night. We took off from P-town at 2:40pm and hit Pole Creek at 5:40pm. The forecast was for "possible thundershowers" and we did hit a bit of rain just before Sisters. It was nice, because it toned down the dust a bit. The 15 road is total washboard, kinda like my stomach. We strapped on our packs and headed up the trail. We hit the first patches of snow at about 6,000 feet. It's melting fast and the bugs are gonna be out in force soon. I got hit by 3 or 4 skeeters before I could spackle myself with Off. We got up around 7,400 feet and found a decent campsite. We had just brought bags and groundcloths, so getting settled was quick. We each had a sammy for dinner and washed it down with a couple cans of beer. I'm not a big Heineken fan, but I gotta say, it went down easy, kinda like a Thai hooker. We went to bed at 10:30pm or so, and it didn't start raining until midnight, so we got an easy hour of sleep. We pulled our groundcloths around us, burrito-style, to keep the majority of the rain off us. It only lasted a few minutes. We got another dose a bit later, along with a bit of wind, but it was all good. The alarm went off at 3:00am, and we woke to clear skies with plenty of stars. The moon was nearly full and bright, kinda like those Xenon headlamps on Kevin's G35. I choked down a PB&J while Kevin munched some Pop Tarts, and we got our shit together. We mentioned that it was damn warm. It prolly didn'te get below 45 degrees all night. We took off at 3:40am, heading up the SE ridge. We saw a couple of headlamps in front of us, approaching the first gendarme. They were prolly an hour ahead and we figured they were camped somewhere near us. The climb up the choss pile was pretty uneventful. Nothing to see in the dark, and we were up at 9,000 feet or so before we knew it. Looking bakc down the ridge, as it was getting light, we could see another tent (prolly the party ahead of us). We could also see a couple of climbers heading straight for Thayer. Ballsy, kinda like that guy that takes the cannonball square in the gut! We also saw all Timmay's turns over on Hayden. A bit later we were at about 9,700 feet; the point where we had to drop down and traverse under the Camel's Hump. We dropped down a bit, took a look, and had a convo. Kevin told me he was pretty wiped, kinda like one of those guys crawling across the finish line in the Ironman. I told him I was cool with turning around. The summit was so close, but I know that when you push and you're really not feelin' it, you risk the trip turning into an epic, kinda like any one of Jamin's trips (no offense, man). I told him, I'd at least like to cruise around Camel's Hump and take a peek at the rest of the traverse. He said he'd cruise back to a safe spot and wait. I traversed under the hump to another section of rock, and looked at the boot path on the second section of traverse. It looked good, kinda like Avril in that "My Happy Ending" video. So, I got on it! I cruised across, after slapping on the pons. That section was short, but damn steep. I didn't look down much, but it was a ways down! The third section of traverse was the last one, and angled up a bit. Boot tracks were sinking a good 6 inches each step. I got across that and was just getting to the point of looking up the bowling alley, when I heard all kinds of shit happening. It was kind of a crash, clang, ching, kinda like when the plane crashed on "Lost." I looked up to see a guy sitting on his ass right at the narrowest point at the bottom of the Bowling Alley. He didn't look like he was having fun. I asked him if he was alright, and he said he was leading and came off. He musta dropped and slid 20 meters or so. Fortunately, he was not injured, only hurt. His partner very carefully downclimbed to him, retreiving a tool along the way, and got him up. They proceeded down to me, 5 meters below on some relatively solid ground. We chatted, and they introduced themselves as Chris and Mike - a couple of guys outta UCD. They gave me an update on the Alley - wet rock, slush, ice (but nothing that would hold a screw.) You name it, and it was there. I sure as hell wasn't going any further! I mentioned I was cool on the way over, but was a little worried about the trip back, and they offered me the middle of their rope. I clipped in, and we set out back across the traverse. Mike led, setting a picket here and there. Once we got back to safe ground, Mike sat down for some Advil, a bandage and a snack. I shook their hands, thanked them, and headed down to camp, where Kevin had already gone. I left there at 10:30am and was back at camp at 11:40am. I just caught Kevin, who had planned to bail back to Pole Creek right about then. We packed up our shit and were back at the car enjoying Ruination and Hop Rod Rye by 2:30pm. There we chatted with a fellow who was leading a group of 8 up North the next day. We gave him all the beta we could and wished him luck. Hopefully, Chris and Mike, and the group of 8 will read this and can comment. I don't know if Chris and Mike had rock pro, but protecting the Alley seemed tough. Screws were certainly no good. Kevin and I are gonna wait till August or September to try this one again. Here are a couple of shots: Right before the traverse under Camel's Hump. The second section of traverse. Looking up at Mike and Chris in the Bowling Alley. Mike leading back across the traverse. By the way, Chris and Mike, if you do happen to catch this, good tip on the Moylan's. A bit heavy for me, being a triple, but hoppy as hell! It's going down well as I type this! Good luck on Jeff, fellas! Gear Notes: 2 2-ft pickets 60-m rope Chris and Mike had a 60-m rope and 3 2-ft pickets, I think. Approach Notes: Miserable for the first 4 miles or so, until you get some views!

I read a different article on this, and it portrayed this gal as someone who had a kid more to promote the fact that she could, than because she actually wanted the kid. Prolly more of the press misportraying the facts, but..... I'm cool with her having kids at any age she wants, but I don't wanna be preached to that it's her right. I actually feel that way on a number of subjects.