Climb: Shuksan-Sulphide Glacier
Date of Climb: 8/15/2005
Trip Report:
...Had one of those climbs that begins with..."Wanna get out this weekend/YES/where?/uh...Buckner, no, Shuksan?/sure, pick you up at 5". We'd been shut out a combined 5 times on this one due to everything, but the weather report called for yellow orbs and delivered. We hit the trail at 8:30 and were at the glacier within a couple hours...
The route is still in great shape, took us a little under 6 hours to reach the summit pyramid. The scrambling gully was clogged with a rappeling party of 9(!) from a popular climbing club I'll refrain from naming. The baking sun and an hour wait had our patience down so we called a halt to thier rappel and climbed on past. The moves through the gulley are easy and straightforward 3-4 class moves, but deadly exposed. We summited 20 minutes later to a near cloudless view. Shared the summit with two cats from Glacier who'd come up the Chimneys. (R&A, awesome meeting the both of you, hopefully we meet again) Spent a solid hour on the summit and wasn't surprised to find the 9 party in the same place. I actually felt bad for some of them, as the (now) four of us scrambled past them in 20 minutes, not kicking so much as a pebble on them. They had been hung out in the blazing heat for hours and had hours to go, I doubted many would care to climb again. It goes w/o saying that clogging a route like that is irresponsible and dangerous at best, glad I wasn't leading that one. We hopped down to the glacier, roped up and were off. We walked in the perfect evening light, spinning in circles at the scenery. It was a perfect day, we'd had the Sulphide to ourselves on a Saturday, spent 9 hours climbing and 11.5 car to car...
Approach Notes:
Route is in great shape. Bring a rap rope if you don't have downclimb skills...