sir_vent

I cant pm you cause it says your box is full so I could stop by this evening say ~7-8pm.

dang, I hope this low snow season has changed things!

The crevasses are opening up on the top of the route, I'd give it another week or so of hot weather then it's gonna be much more of a hassle.

So I bought this "glacier rope" and it says twin on the package. I was planning to use it singly on glaciers and it would be much nicer for the NE face of eldorado than my fat heavy rope. So how unsafe would it be to lead some moderate grade ice / fall in a crevasse on this thing without another for twin technique?

Anyone know about the recent ice conditions on the NE face? Thanks.

Hi, I need one more tool for doing eldorado, anyone have a used one they dont use much and want to offload for cheap?

I heard from a friend who tried this route last weekend that the turtle is a very loose and unappealing moraine and that the wilson is too cracked up to travel on. He said I should take the lower trail. Anyone know if the route accross the nisqually is still in? also does anyone know if the last bit to the summit is heavily crevassed now? I'll be calling the rangers too, thanks for the beta everyone!

goatboy, we werent planning to do the ice cliff, just the ice chute to the left of it. From fixie's pix it looks just about soloable... But from the pictures I'm seeing, the more screws we have the more fun we can get into. we were planning to descend the DC so are going super light. I'm thinking of sleeping (or probably not sleeping any ) on the rope without a sleeping bag, just in a space blanket since I dont have a bivy sack but my partner does. Anyone have any similar bivy experiences that might sway me towards a different bivying tactic?

A friend and I are planning to do this route this weekend, would it be that dangerous with only 3 screws? We're both new but I've practiced at the coleman twice now, putting in screws on the flat is cake but I think it would be tough while climbing on the vertical. Looking at that picture, are there multiple lines such as to the right of the chute, that have more ledges to belay from? Also no one answered whether the ice was good enough for a v-thread? Thanks!