PaulO

Welcome. Just not something I was up to solo. Great job on Jeff.

"In Hindsite: On the way down the wind switched to the west, cleared the smoke and revealed the face of the North and the actual route were all BARE!" Double Hindsite: Looking at my pic enlarged I see there was a bit of snow/ice on the traverse (circled blue) but, much worse the short chute to the summit is caked over (circled red). Glad I did not go. I spent the longest 1/2 hour of my life in there once solo in similiar conditions deciding I could move to turn around without sliding on down the fast way.

Actually I did give it a shot again yesterday but had the same result. The picture Billy posted shows a lot of snow and looking at the route from the lava bed on Obsidian trail at daybreak on the way in I thought the same. By the time I got up above the meadow to where I could have seen in more detail what it looked like a curtain of thick smoke had moved over the summits from the Middle north over past Jefferson. This prevented me from seeing much of anything up high even though it was right above me. I decided to go for the middle and proceeded over towards the ridge. It was quite icy and firm so I put on the crampons. As my fancy boots made my feet really sore I wore my other boots and brought my old army surplus crampons. One of them broke right in 2 before I got over to the ridge. Looking up at the North ridge of the Middle covered in snow and ice I decided to sneak through the crevices on the less steep part and head down In Hindsite: On the way down the wind switched to west, cleared the smoke and revealed the face of the North and the actual route were all BARE! OH well - guess it WILL have to be next season. Might have some pics if they turn out will post later.

Will do! Have fun on Jeff.

Going back to try it again tomorrow. Hopefully 2 weeks of high freezing level have melted the shaded snow...otherwise will have to just walk up Middle so it is not a wasted trip.

NWS: SOUTH WASHINGTON CASCADES-SOUTH WASHINGTON CASCADE FOOTHILLS- INCLUDING THE CITIES OF...COLDWATER VISITORS CENTER...MT ST HELENS...WIND RIVER VALLEY...MERWIN LAKE...YALE LAKE...COUGAR 337 AM PDT FRI SEP 22 2006 TODAY...PARTLY SUNNY IN THE MORNING THEN MOSTLY SUNNY. WARMER. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 9000 FEET RISING TO 10000 FEET IN THE AFTERNOON. VALLEY HIGHS 65 TO 70. NORTHWEST WIND 5 TO 15 MPH. TONIGHT MOSTLY CLEAR. COLDER. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 11000 FEET. VALLEY LOWS AROUND 40. NORTH WIND 5 TO 10 MPH. SATURDAY...SUNNY WARMER. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 11000 FEET. VALLEY HIGHS AROUND 75. EAST WIND 5 TO 10 MPH. SATURDAY NIGHT CLEAR. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 13000 FEET. VALLEY LOWS 45 TO 50. EAST WIND 5 TO 10 MPH. SUNDAY SUNNY. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 13000 FEET. VALLEY HIGHS 75 TO 80. NORTHEAST WIND 5 TO 15 MPH. SUNDAY NIGHT CLEAR. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 13000 FEET. MONDAY MOSTLY SUNNY. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 12000 FEET. MONDAY NIGHT MOSTLY CLEAR. FREE AIR FREEZING LEVEL 12000 FEET. and on... they think the rest of the week...

Off topic (sort of) but when I was coming down the west side of the North/Middle Sister (central OR Cascades) weekend before last I saw runoff like I have never seen (all glacial melt, no recent precip yet then) in the 35 years I have frequented the area. I also heard something I found very strange that I had never experienced before. The quite loud sound of a lot of running water coming from UNDER the glaciers and snow fields in the evening quiet sounded like a raging river. Kinda scary...

To answer your questions: While I like to get out and do car to car climbs up the 'easier' summits in Oregon and SW Washington I most always end up going by myself plus I have never invested in more than crampons and my trusty WWII era wood handle ax my Uncle gave me (he brought back several on the way home back then). My first time up the North was many years ago in early June of a big snow year. The traverse was fat and steep and, being young and stupid, my cousin and I crossed it unprotected. Age brings wisdom and, not being equipped to cross safely on the snow, the other 7 or 8 times I have been there were late season bare crossings. I do not get the same you slip you die feeling picking my way through the crumbly, usually muddy and not quite as steep bare traverse as the seeming near verticle snow crossing. I totally agree with JLAG it is easy when bare but I cannot say for certain what it was like now as I was still on the behind the last rock hiding the traverse when I turned back. I would also agree a well protected crossing on the snow is certainly the easiest way to do it. The point is to do what you are comfortable with and within your ability. I was camping with the wife and kids 8500' up between the Middle and North July 2003 when a helicopter woke us up landing 100 feet away at 7am ferrying a rescue crew to recover a body from a fall on the traverse a few days earlier. It can be deadly. I do know a LOT of the rotten mountain on the back side of the upper ridge before the traverse has fallen off over the years. You used to be able to skip along the back side after you got above the choss then cut through and up to the traverse with little exposure. That is why I was wondering if the apparent other path cutting across just below the top of the ridge on the same side as the traverse is on (facing the middle) might be the better way to go now? Where I ended up was a spot where you would have to drop down a steep rotten, debris covered 60 feet or so to pass around an outcropping to gain access to the correct side of the ridge just before the traverse. It looked to be a more likely place to slip then what I recall of the melted out traverse from past years. As for why I felt awful, not sure. Never have gotten sick at altitude. Had plenty to eat and drink and it certainly was not cold. Seems to me at some point after 40 there are just some days when energy is nonexistent and other days it is abundant. I hope to get up the Middle still before the real snow sets in but the North will have to wait for next year at least for me.

It is a nasty slog up onto the ridge and going the way I always had prior - up the spine of the ridge - now leads across several missing sections which requires climbing down and around. It looks like most folks now veer diagonally up the mess from the glacier heading for the upper end where the rotten but more solid rock begins. Past years when I went back after some early fall precip there was always a thin but persistent ice layer up the climb from the traverse as it is always shaded making it tough.

Climb: North Sister (solo attempt)-South Ridge etc Date of Climb: 9/9/2006 Trip Report: Left Portland at 3:45 am and Obsidian Trailhead at 7:15. Felt ok but after a few hours gradually got ill to the point weakness and fatigue were my constant companions. Had not been up the North for several years and prefer to go when the traverse is melted out. Made fair time to the bottom of the south ridge but the long scree slog took a huge toll on my already severe lack of energy. Managed to get up on to the ridge proper and discovered the 'traditional route' skirting the back side and also what looked like a newer way across the face towards the Middle. Choose the old way I had went before and at 9800+ feet discovered even more of the back side had fallen off. As it was 3pm (my pre-decided turn around time) and the unprotected drop around a slippery, rotten point to cross around to the traverse side brought me to a decision to limp back down. Changing out of my boots helped a lot and I got to the car by dark. Not sure why I felt so bad (pushing 50 ?) but it was still a good day. Had the entrire North and Middle to myself above the meadow. Beautiful day. Looks like 4K snow level the next few days will wipe out any new tries for now. Oh well... Wish I knew some climbing buddies with more gear... Gear Notes: Boots, brought ax and crampons but not needed, rope would have assured success. Global Warming: Massive glacial melt creek: Approach Notes: great trail to ridge. Scree to attain upper ridge bad as EVER.

Has anyone been up the North Sister recently? Has the snow melted off the traverse this year?

Last Updated: 08/21/2006 10:30 am ORE242 MP 76 - 87 ORE242, 15 miles West of Sisters Comments: The Highway is now open. Please watch for fire equipment in the area. For fire info call 541-549-3211 or www.inciweb.org

Went last Sunday. Old dome is just a rock pile in the corner. New dome is wall to wall across the crater and 2/3 to 3/4 the height of the rim. I WAS impressed! Give her a couple more years and there may be a new mountain to go up. Bob getting some summit refreshment : Me and the dome: It was a cool view.

Climb: South Sister-South Ridge Date of Climb: 7/29/2006 Trip Report: Took the boys (9, 14, 16) up South Sister 3 weeks ago. Left PDX 3:30, breakfast in Bend at Mickie D's, left Devils Lake TH 8am. JP and Michael made the top at 12:30, Savio and I 1:00. Not bad for a 9 year old (He was there last year at 8 too). No gripes til I said let's go across to the top! Windy, cold summit. Windy, dust in ya face ridge on the way down. Back to the car at 5pm and home (via Lebanon and a visit to Grandma's) at 10:30. Wish I could sleep in the car too. Gear Notes: Boots except Savio He was tough so he just wore his tennis shoes

online: http://www.active.com/event_detail.cfm?event_id=1341150 You have to pick them up at Jack's Restaurant and Store in Ariel on the way.

Last week I got stuck with four passes on climb day. The nice lady at the store offered to try to sell them for me. When we returned in the afternoon the not so nice guy explained this was unlawful but he did give me $22 for one pass she got rid of. He also gave me three unsold blank passes wrapped in two blank parking permits in an envelope. Now, since I paid for these, I can fill them out and use them any old day I want to right?

I see someone w/ passes for 23rd on sale in another post

You are correct that newer phones will not switch to analog if they get any digital signal. You used to be able to force the phone to dial analog in the setup menu but now (if the phone will even do it) they hide it in the service menu. Many phones you can get to the service menu by pushing the menu key once then several zero's. Just be careful not to change anything else - look for 'force mode' or 'force call' selection and choose analog. If you change the mode you will need to change it back later when you return to digital country. Of course you need an analog capable phone to do this. All cell carriers are trying to do away with analog service so in the not too distant future your phone will no longer work at all in remote areas no matter how high up you are. I had the same prob with my wife last summer when I went out with my new tri-mode phone and then discovered it would not switch to analog. Not good. That is when I found out you could still switch it over they just hid the menu.

or my boss

Got extra passes for Sunday (day after tomorrow). Anybody want to take any off my hands?

No prob. ryland- I been up all of the easy ones around here over the years... I believe cell providers are required to accept 911 calls even if you have no service through them but you would still need to be able to connect. Not sure about the other devices.

Not sure if Verizon is best everywhere. The thing to remember is cell signal is line of sight so if there is nothing in the way (ie: up high on a mountain) and your phone can be forced to connect analog (getting scarce nowadays) you likely can connect at least sporadically.

Geesh, I assumed the guy wanted to know for the same reasons I carry my phone - possibly good in emergencies and I like to call my wife and let her know I am on my way back cause I am usually by myself. Must have been a nice calm day up on hood?

I have had Verizon for years and as long as you are sufficiently up in altitude and not surrounded by obstacles it works well from Mt. Adams, St Helens, Hood, all the Sisters etc. You MUST have an analog capable phone and on the newer phones know how to get to the service menu to force it to call analog. Most new phones will not switch as long as they receive a digital signal from the tower and, while you receive a strong signal, your phone will not transmit that far. I have had analog phones connect 50+ miles away from summits. It is not perfect like near towers but works pretty well. Nothing works in lowlands away from towers.

http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/current-conditions/mta-climbing-report.shtml June 01, 2006 FEE SEASON FOR MOUNT ADAMS IS NOW IN EFFECT Cascades Volcano Pass is required above 7,000 feet elevation on Mount Adams from June 1 to September 30. CLIMBING ROUTE INFORMATION Winter's snowpack is receding, but it's still quite deep on the alpine slopes of Mt. Adams. Recent thunderstorm rain and non-freezing nights has left soft snow. Skis or snowshoes are helpful on the approach. This weather pattern is predicted to remain unsettled through the weekend. Be wary of white-out conditions that occur suddenly and persist. The access trails are still under snow, which will make finding your way up and back more challenging. For South Climb, most tracks follow a direct route to Lunch Counter and Suksdorf Ridge, passing between Crescent Glacier and South Butte. Note your exit/entry into the trees, so you can find your way back to the trailhead. If you stay in the fall line below Crescent Glacier, it will take you too far west; remember to traverse some to the east. Review forecasts by the National Weather Service and any special postings by the NW Weather and Avalanche Center prior to any mountaineering. The spring avalanche advisory is currently posted. ROAD CONDITIONS Many of the Forest roads are still covered in snow. Approaching the south side of Mt. Adams, Forest Roads 80 and 8040 are open to the Gotchen Creek Trail #40. This is approximately 3.5 miles from the South Climb Trailhead. On the north side, Road 23 is closed by snow before Road 2329 and Takhlakh Lake. Road 2329 is covered by snow. Road 23 over Baby Shoe Pass remains closed by snow. Given the deep snowpack, we do not expect to drive to the South Climb Trailhead until the end of June. For the latest information on conditions please call the Mt. Adams Ranger Station at 509-395-3400.