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diggler

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Everything posted by diggler

  1. Incorrect start, icefall, leaving gear, sparse pro', unplanned bivy- sounds like a great day in the hills! Plus, you got to miss work for a day!!! Pretty hard to beat that view up there, too. Envious.
  2. Greetings, I'll be making a trip to WA from CO in a little over a week's time- STOKED!!! Among other things I want to do, climbing a mountain is HIGH on the list! As I'm recovering from a broken heel (one side) & a broken ankle (the other; surgery), I'm looking for something manageable given my limitations. A glacier climb with a bit of scrambling, with kick-ass views, sounds GREAT for me right now. While I'm certainly not averse to some snow, I'm also well aware how much it can slow you down on the way up. Anybody aware of the current snowline/approach conditions? While I could bring snowshoes/skis, if the snow were consolidated enough, I would prefer just boot-packing it (without post-holing the whole way). For those familiar with the approach, what would a reasonable timeline be to approach (assuming a campsite along the way), summit, & get back??? I would say that I am hiking at 75% - 80% of an average pace currently. Other 1-2 day objectives fairly close to Seattle with hiking/potential snow-glacier travel/up to 4th (maybe a little easy 5th) also greatly appreciated- THANKS!!!!!
  3. Howdy, I'm jonesin' to get out of Dodge, or as the case may be, the Bay Area. Want to head north, will most likely do so sometime between tomorrow & Monday, at the latest. 2 conditions-dependent routes I've wanted to do for awhile now, but haven't gotten to- Jefferson Glacier on Jefferson, & Adams Glacier on Adams. Both involve steep snow; also, easy rock (easy 5th) on choss on Jefferson; or moderate ice climbing (WI3ish?) on Adams. I've also wanted to try Inspiration Peak in the Pickets for some time, too- it has an, um, involved approach (bushwhacking, glacier travel, all that good stuff). Once you get there, it looks like a sweet exposed 5.9 ridgeline w/ a spectacular top-out. I'd also be totally down to do some cragging. Weather permitting, Inded would be cool, Washington Pass, Leavenworth... Conservatively, I'll just say that I'd be cool leading 5.9 trad right now (haven't climbed outside for a month or so). After getting a couple days in, maybe harder. I've got rope, rack, ride. Would be leaving from Seattle. Hit me up! Phone best. 510.393.2651
  4. Title pretty much sums it up. Would love an excuse to get up to Washington, & I've got a 2nd date with Jefferson on the way. Anybody know the conditions? Vehicle access? Snow line? Crevasses/'schrunds? Anybody interested in meeting up to do either? In case you're unfamiliar with the routes, both mostly steep snow to icefall/(from what I understand) mellow ice climbing; some easier rock climbing on volcanic choss (i.e. possible belays), too. I'd be driving from the Bay Area. Beta appreciated- thanks!
  5. Hey, thanks a lot- that helps, & is definitely appreciated!
  6. Anybody know if the Bypass Glacier has slid off this year (yet)? Also, how hard is the direct vs. the bypass start? Last thing, what is the best pro' for the direct (.10a?) crux? Thanks a lot!
  7. Hoping to jump on Dragontail tomorrow. Anybody know what the descent conditions are? Crampons &/or an axe a good idea, or snow soft enough to just plunge step? Beta appreciated- thanks!
  8. Quite the ingenuous TR- unprepared partner, post-midnight camp arrival, aborted climb, winter summit, 2,500’ ski descent, more fails on the way back down- Sounds epic! Misbegotten partners are bad; specious ones can be even worse. At least you were able to ditch him & nab a winter summit- sick views! Nice, man- keep up the good work!
  9. Howdy, I might be in the Bend area for a little while, & would love to get out & climb things. Trad' (Trout Creek or anywhere warm enough to climb during the winter), sport (not usually my thing, but hey- I'm here, & people say it's pretty good around here), or alpine (love it- Bend area to Hood to Washington)- I'm down. .10s trad', ice- & mixed on the side of a mountain, clipping bolts, it's all good. Lemme know. Safe climbing
  10. Howdy, I'm in the Seattle area for the next couple of weeks, & really want to get my climb on. Stuart N ridge, Slesse, & various objectives in the Pickets would really hit the spot. Throughout the years, I've accumulated experience in scrambling, slogging, suffering, snow, ice, alpine, big walls, ... Hit me up if interested. Totally down to discuss plans over cragging or some beers. I've got a ride & requisite gear. Not constrained by weekends. Let me know! -Dirk 510.393.2651
  11. Greetings fellow climbers. The purpose of this post is two-fold. 1. How are the glacier/snow conditions right now. 2. I need a partner. Jefferson or maybe Whitewater Glacier on Jefferson, & Adams Glacier on Adams are what I'm interested in. I'm pretty easy to get along with, & have been doing various mountain-related activities for awhile now. Have the necessary accessories, & hopefully enough good judgment, too Before replying, please take a sec to look into the routes- they are certainly not beginner climbs, & experience on glaciers/steep snow/potential ice-climbing required. I plan on being in the area in the next week or 2. Doesn't matter to me what time of week it is (i.e. doesn't need to be on a weekend). Plan on being in Portland for a day or 3, & I'll be in Seattle towards the end of the month. Thanks for reading. If interested, shoot me an email or gimme a ring. Peace. -Dirk 510.393.2651
  12. Thanks for the beta! I was thinking about the SW ridge, but will consider the option you described. Is it the same difficulty (class 4ish, from what I understand)?
  13. Thanks! A 17-mile scree slog/hike/scramble with 8,000 or so ' of elevation gain in an amazing area seems pretty unique to me.
  14. Buddy & I are planning on heading up to central Oregon this weekend to attempt a 3 Sisters Marathon. Axe &/or crampons required? Conditions? Any recommendations on places to camp while we're there? If anybody could help us out with a shuttle so we don't have walk back to where we started that would kick ass too (we're planning on doing the traverse on Sunday)! Any beta appreciated!
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