XXX
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My truth was called into question based on a handful of studies that suggest micro-fractures do not in fact reduce the integrity of biners. I responded, "Then you can use the one you dropped and I'll take a new one."
What is the right thing to do? Is there consensus on this one?
Don't be a cheap skate man. All over a 15 dollar biner? Climbing partners should respect one anothers gear, but dont get your undies in a bundle over something so minor. Especially if it is someone you have climbed with on a consistent basis.
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It goes both ways. I laugh every time I go into one of the "local climbing shops" only to be reminded by the staff of how "core" they are and how "newbie" I am.
Any "experienced" gear shopper knows what to expect from stores big and small.
As Always - Caveat Emptor
agreed.
PMS has great service!But some of the people working at marmot(in bellevue) and FF are just plain full of it. Especially the chick with the tight shorts, you know who you are.
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As I said: I like the Cascades as much as anybody, and as I forgot to say: I specifically moved here for that reason and I'm happy with that choice.
I'm just sayin' that if it is the actual climbing that we are talking about, Yosemite, the Bugaboos, Mt. Robson, the Waddington Range, the Alaska Range ... there are a lot of other destinations that come higher on my list of really cool climbing destinations than our mighty Mt. Stuart or whatever. But I like all that Washington has to offer - the mountains, desert, coast and, yes, the City of Seattle. But really: what crag in Washington compares to the 'Gunks?
I think Peter's original point was not only that Washington really is not the center of the universe for climbing, but also that many very active posters on cc.com simply seem to want to spread ill will rather than talk about how much all of us like climbing or even the climbs themselves and this is unfortunate. I'm expanding on his point, but I'm pretty sure I'm accurate in my expanded interpretation. I love this place; I post day in and day out and I've made lots of great friends here. But cc.com could be better.
The problem with the bugaboos, waddington, alaska range etc etc is that there are no freaking cool major cities next to them. What makes the Cascades a great place is the proximity to the Seattle metro area. Not many other major cities in the U.S. offer a better place for climbers imo. Note I said "major"
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did anyone see the picture posted on Komos website? looks like an eruption! I guess some people mistook it for a volcanic eruption lol!
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Those pics look tastey. Someone post a more recent trip =)
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I want to hear too.
Me three! I have had my eyes on adams glacier for awhile, whats the latest? Someone go climb it dammit!
T
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That rock looks like cement in my driveway, just doesn't appeal to me!
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On a week day I ran up to snow lake in mid september with temps in the high 80s. Ran into a group of naked chicks jumping into snow lake late in the evening.
Not another soul around.
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Israel. Every right to.
If Isreal attacks Iran we will see 7 dollar gas by the end of the summer!
so much for climbing past I-90 corridor. I guess the only benefit is sound tranist will pass expanded light rail -
shes kinda cute for an old chick
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I'm 26 and just started working for myself, so my schedule is pretty flexible. All my normal buddies have 9-5 jobs
. I'm an extremely mediocre rock climber - have followed alpine routes to ~5.7 with no problems and have just started leading easier stuff (i can lead sport to around 5.9). I can also climb easy ice (AI/WI 3 or so) and ski just about anything.I usually do slog glacier trips and scrambles, and would welcome partners to do those too! I'm in good shape (have a few 7k+ days in this spring), but usually plant a beer cache or two key points on the decent.
Thanks,
Eli - spcmanspiff at gmail.com
I could probably get a few week days off if your interested
T
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Doesn't look like granite.
looks like crap basalt or rhyloite
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What? No maps and charts?
If I had more charts I could be on msnbc
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XXX, you may actually be right. On my block, where as I already mentioned blacks and people of middle east descent were not permitted until the 1970's, we have a black and Asian family. But in the Seattle city limits, the black and Asian families are overwhelmingly concentrated in the SE quadrant, are they not?
I realize that Federal Way is a different story, and that a lot of middle class black and Asian families live in Bellevue, but Seattle is certainly segregated -- maybe not quite like Jacksonville, FLorida, or ... [add your favorite city here] but not altogether different.
In the context of this election, how do you think this will influence things? When push comes to shove, and we are choosing between Bush term III and something that might be different, can Obama win votes in the midwest and south?
As I argued, to the objection of at least two others, I recognize that people living in Washington are much different than those living on the Eastern U.S. I was talking about Michigan, where I have personal knowledge, but I won't argue if you say that outward expressions of racial intolerance are greater in West Virginia or Kentucky, or produce maps and charts showing greater segregation.
You could be right about Seattle itself, but in general the puget sound area is much more diverse.
As far as the Asian population goes, Asians make up more then 25 percent of Bellevue in mostly middle to upper class areas. In Seattle I would argue that most Asians are self segreated since most living in the Seattle area are first generation immigrants. The asians who are segreated in Seattle are not doing so because of race, but because of generational trends and economics.
For african americans it is a different story, since many blacks living in the Rainier valley are confined to that area due to their low income. Consequently more blacks are leaving SE seattle for places like Kent, Federal way, Renton, Auburn and Tacoma.
As far as your other points go, I do agree with you very much so. Lets put aside the white issue for a moment, many older hispanics and asians have racists attitudes towards blacks. I am not so sure obama can win states like West Virgina, Kentucky, or even Flordia right now.
The difference between regions in this country are quite stark. As far as the midwest goes, Minnesota and Iowa are much different then Michigan and Ohio. Obama can win the former, but not so sure of the later.
I'm not going to throw maps and charts out, but Obama has a serious problem in places like Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, West Virgina, even places that are solidly democrat like Pennsylvania.
Some may disagree with me on this, but racist attitudes in Michigan, Indiana, and Ohio are terrible. I do think Obama can win, but it will be close. Additionally I know democrats do not like to admit it, but she damaged Obama imo.
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Seattle is nearly as segregated as any city in the south,
Matt I generally respect your opinion, but on this point you are just simply smoking crack bro. Seattle, and the west coast in general is much more integrated then places in the south. In fact suprisngly places like Kent, Rent, and Tacoma are some of the most racially integrated places in the nation when it comes to blacks and whites. Lets just keep in mind though that the black population out west is significantly smaller. So on that point I will concede.
I think one indicator of how far a region has come in racial progress can be measured by interrcial marriage. This may come as a suprise to some but states like Washington, California, Hawaii, Arizona and other west coast states, suprisngly even Alaska have higher interracial marriage rates then most places east of the Mississipi.
The stark difference between DEMOCRAT voters in Applachia and in western states is quite stark. The fact that Obama can win democrats in Idah/Montana/Alaska yet not in West Virgina and Applachia should tell us something.
On a final note I don't deny racism exists, but people in Washington state are much different then people living in a place like West Virgina or Kentucky. No offense if anyone on this board is from those places.
On a positive note, I do think Generation X and Y are much more tolerant then our parents generation. Electing Obama would be a huge generational change in American politics.
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Currently snowing at stampede and stevens pass!
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The snow level will be around 4,000 ft. today and then drop to 2,500 ft. by midnight and up 12" is expected. Because of this, a Heavy Snow Warning has been issued from 6 p.m. This evening until 8 a.m. Tuesday for the West slopes of the North and Central Cascades, this includes all of the passes.
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Congrats on the engagement!
As a past resident of Colorado and a current resident of Oregon, I would say that the mountain weather in the Cascades is much harsher in general than that of the high 14'ers and even the Tetons. Although temps in the winter are colder, the air is much drier due to location. 20 degree weather in the Cascades feels like 0 degree weather in the Rockies. Temps are the same but the relative humidity makes you feel much colder. Winters are definitely colder in Colorado and drier, which leads to great pow, but we had almost 800inches on Hood this year but more water content in the snow.
The spring and summer in CO is like being on a beach compared to weather in the Cascade volcanoes. I would say the engagement def. pulled a few karma points because the weather out here has been miserable almost all spring.
Rainier is an awesome mountain. I am glad that y'all were able to experience our back yard. Please come back. Next time head up to the North Cascades for some classic alpine routes!
As for wind speeds, we had several storms this past season that brought 100+ mph winds at sea level. The high mountain measuring devices broke in Oregon at 108mph. That is a pretty regular thing out here. http://www.accuweather.com/mt-news-blogs.asp?blog=weathermatrix&partner=accuweather&pgUrl=/mtweb/content/weathermatrix/archives/2006/11/pacnw_100_mph_3.asp
Awesome pics man! great trip to Rainier, but I agree with the above poster. It may get colder in Coloardo, but the winters are much harsher in the Cascades in terms of snowfall.
Just keep in mind when it is raining in Seattle for 30 days straight it is snowing copious amounts of snow in the Cascades without end. Its already June 8th here, and tommorow we are forecasted to recieve up to 6 inches down to 5K.
Add that in with the wet factor and its defintly a less pleasant experience then climbing the American rockies. That being said great trip man!
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Ya this late season snow is rather impressive, 10 inches at paradise yesterday, another 10 inches today? 2 feet above 5k. Another cool troph pegged to come in next weekend perhaps.
I am curious what you guys think of this year compared to 99?
This summer so far has been rather chilly. I started climbing in 1999 during highschool and I remeber going out that summer and seeing snow at the 4K level on the ground in July.
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Joe Ranger pm sent. Anyone looking at making a summit bid this weekend/into next week? I am out in the area and haven't been able to find anyone yet who is up for some climbing. Looking at doing the Kautz route, or maybe Gib ledges.
Goodluck making the summit this weekend
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That is so freaking funnny!!
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Way to go Marc! It's cool to see kids out climbing routes like this. When I was your age mom was still driving me to soccer practice. Next time the old guys pick on you, tell them where they can stick their ice axe.
Cool pics, nice way to roll ghetto style bros.
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Hey thats david!! dweeb
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So what are we lookin at on Chair right now WI2? if even that.
tips for alpine newbies
in Newbies
Posted
I agree there is nothing more miserable then climbing with a bossy partner with pms. Its great to climb with people who are easy going yet competent.