spotly
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How about those pictures?
Anyone been up this past week or heard what the snow conditions are now? Maybe know a contact number where I can get some up-to-date info?
Domo
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Trip: Ingalls Peak - East Ridge
Date: 7/16/2010
Trip Report:
My friend Dave and I climbed the east ridge of Ingalls North on Friday. From Ingalls Pass there was consolidated snow but it's melting out fast and parts of the trail are visible. Dave brough his young sone, Luke who waited it out on a rock island below the peaks, taking pictures and making friends with the goats. At one point, I looked down and he seemed surround by them.
Dave and I headed up to the notch and this time I managed to avoid the slimy green 5.14d chimney and found the 4th class ledge system off to the left - much nicer. We decided to run up East Peak real quick-like since Dave hadn't done that route. It was 2 long pitches of easy and solid 5th with a short and loose ridge to finish it off.
Back at the notch, we gathered our packs and headed up the east ridge. The whole route was solid with plenty of pro. One spot of downclimbing was a bit suck with a heavy pack (I think Dave was collecting rocks) but the foot holds were there. We were told the crux on the last pitch would take a #4, which we brought. The pitch was fun as it went straight up the ridge and took a move to the right and over to get to easier ground. I'm thinking that was the crux but it was very well protected without the #4.
From the summit we called Luke on the radio and had him meet us at the base of the south ridge so he could do some climbing. Dave followed up a few moves behind him to help him out and he did great - hiking boots and all. The top was much windier and colder at that point so we didn't linger too long.
A quick stop to pump water and we headed back to the trailhead. I was going to go snag Dragontail on Saturday but my stomach had been giving me fits so I car camped at the TH another night before heading back to Spokane. Dave and Luke headed down to grab Mt. Adams with some friends.
The approach is melting out fast
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_001.JPG[/img]
Heading up to the notch
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_003.JPG[/img]
Dave on East Peak
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_006.JPG[/img]
East ridge route
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_009.JPG[/img]
Dave on the east ridge.
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_010.JPG[/img]'
East Peak viewed from North Peak
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_011.JPG[/img]
Luke and Dave on North Peak - south face
[img:left]http://inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/IngallsEastRidge/IngallsEastRidge_014.JPG[/img]
Gear Notes:
Don't need no stinkin #4
Approach Notes:
Mostly snow.
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Still working after 400'!!!
I think you should write a TR to go with the pics. Embellishment is encouraged
P.S. Hows the route looking?
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I've never climbed the chockstone route on NEWS - thought I've descended it 3-4 times. How is it?
The last part of the descent (over the chockstone) is on part of the route. The upper part is at the head of the gully. A few scarey-loose sections but overall easy climbing.
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Hmmm. I'll have to wander out to the crag to see how the jams feel. Mainly an issue with putting weight on the big toe like that last picture shows lol. Thanks.
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How were the feet on the crux pitches? I was planning on doing the route on the 16th but a lingering toe injury has kept me from getting in much climbing the last few months. Smears and little left toe placements still hurt!
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Just curious - where'd you fall? Any damage other than to the nerves?
I think I'd have to agree with the aid advice and with getting in some exposed scrambling to get your head back into it. Then start back into something well below your grade or that you've dialed in....like Open Book at Minne.
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If you want to avoid the conga line, start early and time your summit for sunrise. Of course, that makes for a painfully impossibly glissade.
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Mine got sticky a few years ago and I cleaned them all with the stuff mentioned here.
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Perhaps it was something and not someone that partook of the tasty morsels?!
[img:left]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LxUtmTO9L._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img]
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I like the creative approach. When I did Cannon last year, I didn't see an easy way across that lower slide. We went straight up the ridge from where you have the map marked. Is there a path that traverses through that?
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You should see my friend's video. He bar tacked a sling with duct tape and took leader falls on it (obviously under controlled environments- I.E.- top rope backup.)
What was the purpose? I suppose I've done wierder things, "just to see what happens" but I'm hoping this isn't in preperation for some plan 'B' lol. Damn, I used to just check rap anchors for sound material and solid placement....now I have to start eying all of those weird duct tape wrappings I've been seeing.
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Two pounds here, an ounce there - it all adds up for me but then again, I tend towards wimpy when it comes to hauling my own butt up the long approaches, yet alone gear.
I personally don't use the same rope for cragging that I use for alpine rock. My crag rope takes a beating what with hang-dogging and falling and stray dogs pissing on it. So, if you're mainly cragging, get the sturdier rope then pick up a skinny once you start doing more remote rock routes....if you can afford it. If I couldn't afford both, I'd go with the fatty and volunteer to carry the rack on the longer trips
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Congrats on at least getting a diagnosis anyway. 5 years is a long time to be wondering what the heck the problem is. The fitness will come back - be patient (easier said than done).
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Trip: Quarterly Icicle Buttress Clmb - May 30th, 2010 - R&D
Date: 5/31/2010
Trip Report:
We spent Saturday night sprawled out at or near a secluded estate. The wind howled down Icicle Creek Canyon most of the night, wafting the smell of whacky weed towards us. I'm sure it was coming from the VW van parked a few hundred feet away. I chose to lay out the bivy directly downwind, which still afforded me some culpable deniability. Dave sprawled out on the trail and was trampled over till midnight. Carl brought a nylon house and snoozed soundly.
Dave and Carl hadn't met before and since we had a more committing climb planned for later in the season, R&D seemed like a good intro route. I was hoping to start up cocaine connection this time but the rock was cold and wet so we started up the standard way - or I should say, one of them since there seems to be a dozen ways to start this route. We each led a pitch or so, breaking up the long last pitch to avoid comminucation and rope drag issues. Not a soul on the route till we got back down.
Cocaine Connection was wet but viewing it from above, probably could have stepped over the wetness and avoided it at the top as well. Entry to the chimney was soaked and slippery for the first move or so but otherwise dry.
I caused Dave to trip over Carl's tent here
Carl coming up the first pitch
Carl near the top
Dave's ass
Carl
Yellow Jacket Dreamin
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I have lots of miles on the Exum Ridges as well. Great shoes but they need a stiff insole if you plan on an 18 mile day on rocky terrain. The heel gives great traction on the loose stuff too. Mine are wore out and I have a peep that was going to try to put some dot-rubber on for me...but I like these new ones - the color isn't quite so ugly as mine
Maybe time for an upgrade. -
got the mutant, actually like it alot except for no crampon pocket
the frame can be an issue if you dont pack it right
easy solution ... i got an thin piece of balsa wood and stuffed it between the bivy pad ... it solved any frame issues when im carrying heavier loads ... it also acts as emergency tinder in a survival situation
Hey, I kinda like that idea! I'd think it would shred fairly quckly though?
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If I am stuck out at X location in the pouring sleet with the temps dropping and need to bail....
In this case, I'm throwing on a single biner and rapping with care. No need to sacrifice all of my gear. Don't get me wrong, whatever it takes to do it safely - I just happen to think you can rap off a single biner when needed. There are exceptions to every rule though and some raps are nastier than others.
If you're talking TR like the OP then that's another issue.
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It was a toss-up between the Variant and the Stratos. I went with the Stratos in the 40 for a little more space. Thanks for the feedback. Now those pockets make more sense
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Cleaning ballnutz isn't too hard if you filed off the corners as HealyJE suggests in a post somewhere on this site. Before you even try the trigger, rotate the Ballnut around the Ball to pop it loose. Sometimes you have to yank it pretty hard. Once it's loose pull the trigger and remove.
My search skills suck - couldn't find that post
I'm guessing the end nearest the cable? Just smooth over any sharp edges? I understand that the flat surfaces and the slide area are what's providing the friction but could filing the edges lessen holding ability to any degree? I use these (ballz) (occassionally) in small, nearly parallel cracks where a nut might not set. I suppose a C3 would work in most cases that I've seen. Haven't had any problems with removing one yet but haven't fallen on one either
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I have a 6 day backpack planned for the Winds in late Aug/early Sept with my spousal unit. My climbing partner and his significant other would like to join us - cool. "Problem" is we find ourselves conspiring to scurry up some nice granite as an "aside". I've always wanted to climb the Wolfs Head but open to suggestions.
We'll be taking two cars so entry and exit THs can be different as long as it's not a significant shuttle. A loop would be very much preferred - something in the 40 to 50 mile range. A summit that can be snagged as a side-trip that won't see us back at the tent long after dark. Something easy so as to reduce the weight of gear. 4th class to low 5th or so. If we could get into something on the first day then stash gear till the return trip, that would be....nice...assuming a lollipop loop.
I've never been in that area. Any ideas? Maybe we should just stick with the backpack trip - suggestions for that appreciated too.
Thinking out loud.
Domo
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Sherpa Glacier via Mountaineers Creek. The Cascadian via Longs Pass or Beverly Turnpike. Or a long slog up Ingalls Creek.
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Edelrid has been promising that harness for quite some time but last I checked (afew weeks ago) it still hasn't arrived in the states. Though their customer service keeps saying "any day now".
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For TR, I use all lockers. One on each anchor bolt (of course) and two locking ovals at the rope (redundancy)- opposing gates. I'm sure it's overkill but that's my standard. I've also used just the QDs for setting up a TR on sport routes - sometimes with lockers and other times just opposing gates.
[TR] NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald 7/24/2010
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Thanks. After last years grizzly confrontation on the hike up to Assiniboine, I would expect no less