spotly
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Posts posted by spotly
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Congrats on this and on Prusik! Should have taken me so you could get in some Z-pulley practice too. Plus I could have been the official photographer
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Very nice! Looks like lots of loose snow still on the slabs. Last time we were there trying for a route on the other side, lots of it broke off and made for a pretty quick pace
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Thanks for taking a look at this. Great info for me to use when discussing my issues with the doc next appointment. Kevino, you're correct that mine is an injury...a tear in the lining of the carotid artery that led to a clot then quickly to total and permanent blockage. I was fortunate to have fairly mild impairment, which I'm well on the way to mending and should be hiking by end of year and hoping to be climbing by next season, including leading. I'll definitely discuss the risk factors of that with my doctor.
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Thanks for all the excellent info. I really appreciate it. Never heard of the quick clot things .. Great advice.
You may want to exercise a bit of caution. Travel to altitudes of over 2400m have been shown to lower patients INR's below theraputic levels. It sounds like bleeding out isn't so much of a risk as forming a potential life threatening emboli.Here is a link to an abstract:
Thanks very much for this link. I was looking at this from an injury management and performance perspective and didnt even consider the affect on INR! One more thing to discuss with my neurologist.
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I'm on 4 mg of coumadin. At this point it looks like it'll be long-term, probably permanent. I've been told that once the injury has healed and my clot hardens up, I should be able to return to normal activities but my docs were pretty vague on their definition of strenuous...the old "just don't let yourself get too tired" thing. That'll get me a few hundred yards up the trail lol. Just wondering if the thinners themselves will do something to the blood to reduce stamina. From what I hear from some people, usually not, so then I gotta wonder about altitude issues.
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Anyone here on blood thinners? Any idea how that affects the body during strenuous exercise like one would get with a hideous car to car like say Mt. Sir Donald?How about affects from altitude? I'm new with this crap and trying to figure things out. Hoping to get some first-hand info.
Domo Arigato
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You have more faith than we did - looks like it paid off for you.
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Trip: Yellow Jacket Tower -
Date: 5/29/2011
Trip Report:
Saturday night Dave and I got soaked in the bivies then Sunday we dried out by hanging out on Yellow Jacket. We were kept company by the ever-present William the one horned billy goat. The rock was dry and the route pleasant. The hole on the last pitch refused to take a pink. As happens, someone no doubt tried too many times to put large gear into a too small of a hole and wore it out. Might take a red but we didn't bring one. Good times followed by 5 hours (!) on R&D - an idiotic (but still fun) quarterly ritual. We climbed Cocaine Connection and finished with the far left crack at the top (solid and airy). Both added a bit more spice. Not sure I like the first 10 feet on Cocaine connection....but yeah, I guess I did
[video:vimeo]24597464
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What he said. Plus the campgound was packed as expected considering it's the only one you can get to. Even the secret spots further down the road were full.
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Sling for gear, which I keep short/tight under my arm to reduce the swinging. I also set the runners up as alpine draws and sling them on an old runner on the opposite side. Maybe if I had enough hips to keep a heavy harness from falling off...
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Thanks for the replys - I definitely appreciate it. I have a line on a used pair of boardlasted hightops and talked with "my" cobbler who said he could trim one of my carbon fibers down to fit if needed. Sounds like I have a plan
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Awesome - I'll shoot you a PM.
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Anyone have a set of old boardlasted shoes in a 8.5 or 9 they want to part with? As near to inflexible sole as possible would be prefered. Maybe just a left shoe that's missing a mate even
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Just a bit of background...I injured my left foot early last year in the ball of the big toe area - tore stuff and ripped a small bone partway off. Anyway, it kept me from cragging but I was able to do easy alpine rock with no problem as long as I could avoid toeing anything. Approaches were doable only after I purchased these nifty carbon fiber inserts.
So this year I spent three months in the climbing gym and all was going well - no pain. We moved outside a few weeks ago and already my foot is starting to feel more and more pain.
I want to keep cragging because I've got a few "harder" routes planned for the year and need to keep the arms and head in shape.
Maybe not the best approach but I'm wondering if I can get my left shoe modified to fit a trimmed down insert and still fit my foot. Just trimming the insert won't do because the shoes are pretty tight. Anyone here familiar with the mechanics of resoling/reconstructing these things that might have a suggestion for stiffening then up?
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1) train ticks to drink piss instead of blood (maybe show them a couple of Bear Grylls videos)
2) get goats to eat pissed-up ticks
problem?
Yes. I fear they'd drop in and queue up at the source. Better to pull them off the other head.
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That blows. I've crashed in the upper lot several times in the past and in the lowest lot once. Might have to rethink the annual Toothathon strategy.
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I checked out the DBs the other day and they are very light and compact. Hard to say how they'll hold up but they do feel flimsier than what I've currently got. I'm careful not to be too abusive through the talus fields though. Gonna get a set with my REI dividend.
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I'm planning on a weekend trip to grab the west ridge of Sherpa and the south face of Argonaut this year. I'll probably go in via Beverly Turnpike late on a Friday and set a bivy at Ingalls creek in order to get an early start on a Saturday. From the summit of Sherpa, what's the fastest and/or easiest way to get to the south face of Argonaut then back to the bivy at Ingalls Creek? Looks like complicated terrain on the map.
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I've read about the one at the entrance to the gully on here; haven't heard about others.
We're looking for something mixed so some snow is good - prefereably on the sucky-when-dry approach and in the gully and not so much on the last pitch. I don't do much over there early season so not familiar with how things melt out on that slope as far as timing.
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I can't find any mention of early season climbs (March-April). I'm wondering about the difficulty - easy snow slog to the rock? I'd imagine that hidden chimney would be easy to get through - how about the 5.4 corner...filled in with snow/ice? I'm pretty ignorant with what the Icicle looks like that time of year. I'll probably have to make a recon I suppose.
Thanks
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Nice. Pictures?
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Thanks much.
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puzzlr over on NWHikers posted this picture of the south side of Argonaut. There's a 5.4 South Face route mentioned elsewhere. Can someone point out the start in this pic? Looks like fun slab throughout - I'm thinking the 5.4 line is on the rigth side of the pic? Thanks.
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Thanks for posting that shot. It's amazing how such a volume of snow can migrate so much in a relatively short time. Excellent thread and photos!
Home-made Forearm Machine
in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
Posted · Edited by spotly
I came up with this idea quite a ways back but never got motivated enough to do it but today I finally got off the recliner and finished it up. It's mostly pine but the bar is oak and required quite a bit of sanding to get it through the bearings, which are mounted in pillow blocks that I found on-line for something like $5 each. Right now I have the weights attached with para-cord but thinking I might need something sturdier pretty soon. All total it was about $60 and 3 or 4 hour hours work. I used it today and got blisters so need to figure something out for the handles. I like that it works both sets of muscles plus the bar is long enough that I can turn it from the end like a screw driver.
Just thought I'd share. Yikes - sorry for the huge image!