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Posts posted by spotly
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I've kind of forgotten about these, but still looking to sell if anyone's interested.
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Make reasonable offers.
Black Diamond Raven Ultra 20 3/4"
4" C4
CHOUINARD-FROST ICE AXE PIOLET 31 1/4" BAMBOO SHAFT
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Anyone been in there in the last week? Any smoke lingering about? Is the snow melted out all the way to the base (of the standard route)?
Domo
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Trip: The Tooth - Standard
Date: 5/31/2014
Trip Report:
The winter approach is still in ok condition. Snow was firm enough early morning but post holed a fair about through the basin on the way out.
No big plug at the top of Pineapple Pass and there was even a nice tunnel to crawl through (or go over). There's still a fair amount of snow on the back side of the pass so we were forced to go lower than normal. No biggie though, since there were good steps.
The rock route was snow-free and dry.
Two single rope raps from the base of the rock got us back to mellower than normal snow in the basin. There's a bundle of webbing w/link on climbers left at the base of the first rap.
Fun day out and had the route to ourselves till the last rap. Sure got hot on the way out though...oi.
I twisted my leg up pretty bad post-holing between two boulders in the basin and now my knee is twice normal size. Doesn't seem to hurt though...unless I bend it too far.
I brought an ice ax and used it on the backside of Pineapple Pass. Partner did not and seemed to do fine.
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Post back and let us know.
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Raven Ultra. Can't recall exact length...shortish(see pic): $55
#4 C4, placed a few times only. Never fallen on. $50
Big Bro #2: $40
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The Rocker cuts the rope at 10 kN and the Basic cuts the rope at 5 kN. Other than that no real difference.
I'm all about efficiency Thanks.
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I've used the Yates Rocker for years. For those who have used both, what are the significant differences between the Rocker and the Ushba Basic?
For weighting the rope, a 1 liter water bottle works well for me.
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It used to take a pink nicely but last time I went up there, a pink wouldn't come close to fitting either.
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I'm curious where you got on and off the ridge at on the way up. We dropped directly towards the lake then over flattish snow and up the same gully you went up. From the summit me decided to try to stay on the ridge coming down and managed to downclimb the on ledges and hidden chimneys to a col then decided to drop from there towards the lake on steep scree and snow, bypassing much of the ridge.
Nice pictures. I agree - turtle.
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I have spent an unexpected night out in an emergency bivi sack...and am convinced it kept a cold uncomfortable night from becoming a body retrieval.
We did the West Ridge route and wound up doing an unexpected bivy on the decent too. It was well below freezing and we had an emergency blanket that saved our butts...barely. I always carry an emergency bag now.
Yeah, that green valley sure is nice after something like that
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Thanks Dane. I'm holing up in a room at Seaside in Feb. Should be a good time to bring a good read.
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My fingers freeze off at 65 degrees so I stick to the summer routes - not sure about the river freezing
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Is anyone here familiar with Split Peak; east and a bit north of Kootenay Crossing? I'm looking for beta of any kind...approach, route, best nearby burger joints.
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Chason opened up his emergency blanket. This ended up being a sheet of shiny plastic. We wondered what use it would be in an actual emergency.
Not much, as we found out when stuck near the summit several years ago. Lesson learned: better to have an emergency bivy sack. Or better yet, not enyoy the rock so much
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Seems lots of stuff comes tumbling off that area below Dragontail.
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Nice pictures and a good description of the route up NEWS. "Take the easier left gully, as the right does not have good pro and takes some committing moves. Continue working up and left over easy terrain. Do not go straight up or right unless you want to deal with offwidth pain." Brother, you go that right. My partner led that in tennis shoes because his toe was hurting. We thought we'd finished off the harder moves until he went right. He spent a looong time on that off-width, skating and shaking and with one piece 10' or more below him said "I think I'm going to take a break here." LOL. We put on quite a show for the peeps on top of SEWS. Good times.
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I'm tired this year and it seems like an effort just to get out when the conditions are good. I think we'll hold off on this until the hard-packed steps are already kicked in...maybe do a nice hike somewhere instead. Thanks for the reply on conditions - really appreciate it.
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I have a double-locking trunk on the car so if they break a window, at least the trunk release won't work. Not sure if it's all that easy to break into a trunk otherwise but at least it's safer than leaving car camping crap in the backseat of my truck - looking for a steel box with a sturdy lock system for that.
Really sucks that these guys got all their crap stolen.
When car camping for more than a night, I always move the expensive gear from the tent to the trunk during the day and take along the cheapo tent. Then just before I leave, I wake up the guard:
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I'm thinking about heading up the do the standard route on The Tooth this weekend. Anyone been up there in the last week? Hows the approach from the upper lot(especially the little slidey area below the cliffs? Big ice block at the pass? Snow on the route?
Thanks.
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Thanks for sharing some of the details. Like others, I'm looking forward to hearing more about that sling. Hang in there and heal quickly.
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My Mummut 8.9 has held up with lots of lower angle climbing.
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I tried the bar with string thing but found my other muscles wore out before I got a good burn in the forearms. I wrapped the bar with friction tape yesterday and it's a little thicker and easier on the hands now.
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I love the direction this thread went. It's like 6 degrees of seperation only ... you know, 180 instead.
[TR] Yellowjacket Tower - Standard 8/6/2016
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
I'm a glutton and actually enjoy the approach. Done it a few times now I like how you avoided the pitchy tree on the rappel.