johnkelley
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Posts posted by johnkelley
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"locals only" isn't what I'm getting at really. I'm saying retro bolts that some wanker puts up on the old TR aren't cool and poorly researched and badly written guide books aren't cool. Has anything good come from this guy? Retro bolts, slackline bolts, a crappy book, book signings, a bs web forum, etc.
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non local guide book authors suck
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Make that five retro bolts added to TR's, according to The Scar.
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It's in Alaska in a secret location until I make it back and try a few other things.
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Who the fuck put in three retro bolts on the old TR problems at crack in the woods crag and why? It's been an established area for several generations, WTF?
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It's kinda near it. Why?
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East Face of Peril Peak
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Evan and Richard both told me. Anyone want to check it out? Seattle to Anchorage adds only 3hrs to the approach.
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Looking for partners for cragging and alpine routes form now until March. I have several things in mind short and long. I have a rack, ropes, etc. and a truck.
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Trip: North Face Peak 10,500 (approx)
Date: 7/29/2010
Trip Report:
Here's the F.A. of peak 10'500? kinda near logan. The line we did took about 20hrs from our camp. It's a bit over 5,000ft and goes at AI3 5.4. It's about a 2,000ft vertical gain up the scree to where the climbing starts.The next 3,000ft are almost all ice with a short rock pitch to the summit. We went up the scree gully and traversed the glacier around to the north side.
Approach Notes:
air plane
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Some guy climbed it but later hung himself in the Anchorage jail.
A few more pics
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Do you mean the east face? It's kinda got some strange history.
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Trip: Nantina Point - North Face
Date: 2/20/2010
Trip Report:
Up the couloir for 16 pitches (WI6,M6,A2+) to the ridge crest. Up the ridge (4th class) over the summit and down the ridge to the low spot between Nantina Point and Kiliak. Down the couloir to the Kiliak Glacier.
Approach Notes:
Dishwater Creek trail
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Is this the same mcginnis who has an ad for an aid partner (Portland section) but doesn't have any iron, yet? Must be highly quallified and experienced putting new routes in since he dosen't even have a rack.
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Where are these routes?
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AMF SUCKS! Ever check out Kelseys post? There all advertisements for his web forum or questions that a two year old would know the answer to. Guide book? Didn't you just start climbing? Another kid with a fresh college degree in how to make $ out of what we do with our vacation time.
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unclimbed?
in Alaska
Where did the MCAhole wanker go?
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unclimbed?
in Alaska
That's not what Baranow told me. ER doctor? Ivan? Who are you?
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unclimbed?
in Alaska
The East Face of Peril Peak. There's a route called the East Face but it's about two miles up glacier and should be called the south ridge.
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unclimbed?
in Alaska
You did it to yourself when YOU arranged that confrontation for me. This one is to hard for you anyways. I need a partner who can lead at least a pitch or two, not some lazy ass kid who's in to poor of shape to break any trail and backs off ALL of his pitches. Why don't you promote another show instead? I heard that went well for you too.
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unclimbed?
in Alaska
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We tried it a few years ago. There was ice(?) at the bottom but it ran out after 7 or 8 pitches. After that it was vertical snow and blank rock. When we bailed we had to chop bollards in the vertical crap because V threads wouldn't hold and there was almost no rock pro. In that photo the line looks like it's out in the open but it's really in a chimney. Alot deeper in a chimney then it looks. The real ice prize is on Dickeys south side!
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wfinely- ever been to the Aluetains if not how would you know?
North Face Peak 10,500 (approx.) 7/29/2010
in Alaska
Posted
Wow, really. Hint - It's right beside the highest unclimbed peak on the continent.