johnkelley
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Posts posted by johnkelley
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I'm just sick of your MCA bullshit.
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No, it's just Finley being a jackass.
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I'm looking for a climber not a walking expert. I think you'd be suprised who answers these post.
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bump
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and please, no fucking sport climbers
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swezeyt's right , lots of shit talking and that's about it. Maybe stevetimetravlr and frankazoid will post something usefull one day. Seems like their only concern is talking shit and flaming. I'd rather read about peak bagging than fixed draws anyway.
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At least the right guy wrote about it.
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You're right, the idea of climbing being regulated is completly foreign to me. Could have stayed that way but we're too hungry for reconigiton, clearly shown by all of the "community service". It's sad to say but we may have lost our ability to regulate ourselves?
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Why? Good luck getting any "additional resources" out of these guys. Most climbers up here avoid the MCA like the plague.
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No, sport climbing sucks. It's starting to catch up with us too. Look at places like Eldo, Red Rocks, and now several Natiolal Parks. Now it's either no bolts or maybe with a permit. Surly even a stupid ass sport climber can see that. It's only the beginning.
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Have to side with raindog on this one. Seems like the concept of clean climbing is being forgotten. What happened to boldness, adventure, etc? The idea that dumbing down climbs is some kind of a community service is complete BS. Sport climbing is neither!
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Is this the route he was rescued from? Flown from the top or was that a different line?
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We went up the drainage between Bee's Heaven and the Watchman. Take a right at the end of the lake, go over the pass (5,000ft) seperating Beneign and Bee's Heaven, and down to the Wall Street. It's a 4'000ft elevation gain going in this way but it's nice coming out.
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Trip: Beneign Peak -
Date: 1/16/2011
Trip Report:
Here's another new line on Beneign. Took us about 48hrs round trip from a high camp with one bivi. It goes at M6, WI5, and is about 3,400ft long. Here's a few pics of Kevin on the first pitch and on the crux in the dark.
Approach Notes:
Eklutna this time
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That's where I learned to ice climb. It's better then you think. Solid Liquid Gas, Star Shine, Mother Russia, Xanadu, Bemeni Blues, etc... in the mid 90's.
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bump
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Finley, you should go get the 2nd ascent. It's good right now. The crux is the second pitch. Ben's right in the middle of it in the last photo. After that it's a 3,000ft grade 3 cruise to the top.
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It's to the right. The top is visible on the far right hand side of your photo. What looks like the bottom right hand side of Beneign Peak in your pic is the other side of Rumble. The line in the other thread is clearly visible to the left of Malignant. Alot more snow in your photo.
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Two different lines about a half mile apart.
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Trip: Beneign Peak - Unfinished
Date: 12/7/2010
Trip Report:
Didn't finish this one. We bailed in bad weather/spindrift only a few hundred feet from where it tops out. Made it up 11 long pitches and then made 10 raps with a 70m rope. It took about 32hrs round trip from high camp. There's a pitch, maybe two, at the top that that we didn't get to.
Gear Notes:
screws, cams, stoppers, pins
Approach Notes:
Peters Creek
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Trip: Beneign Peak - West Face
Date: 12/20/2010
Trip Report:
The Weast Face of Beneign Peak (3,300ft, AI4, WI4) It took Ben and I about 36 hrs from a high camp round trip. Thousands of feet of AI3, WI3.
Gear Notes:
Ten screws and a small rock rack
Approach Notes:
Peters creek
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What happened to your gear?
Wanted: Type S tapered shank 3/8" drill bits
in The Yard Sale
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You can make them pretty easily out of cobalt steel bits with a bench grinder.