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Posts posted by NTM

  1. Trip: Liberty Bell/ Petit Cheval - Beckey Rte/Spontaneity Arete


    Date: 6/8/2013


    Trip Report:

    Sorry, no photos, just a quick conditions update.

    Got out of work early on Friday and drove out Hwy 20 and did a quick lap on the Beckey route. Mostly snow from the parking lot that made for great boot packing even at 2p. Continuours snow in the upper gully meant no falling rocks! Wahoo! Route is snow-free and just as much fun as I remembered.

    Saturday went to climb First Ammendment, but got a late start and changed plans to climb Spontaneity. I had done it before and thought the first pitch more or less went up and to the left towards the old snag. My partner started on the handcrack in the corner which had some loose rocks, then kept going striaght up instead of left since it looked easier. She accidently dislodged a HUGE block (she said the size of a goat) and somehow caught it on her lap and was able to set it down. We decided we must be off route, grabbed the gear and called it a day.

    Any beta on the proper start? Were we on it and just found some loose crap or were we way off?

    If you go up there soon be aware of a couple large precarious rocks on the slabs above the handcrack.


  2. Trip: WA Pass - E. Face Lexington/Serpentine Crack


    Date: 8/22/2011


    Trip Report:

    We climbed the E. Face Lexington as a party of 3 on Saturday. Conditions were great and not too many bugs on the route. Snow was soft enough to approach in tennies with a couple of rocks just in case. We started no the right side (thanks Sol!) which had quite a bit of loose rock, but was fairly easy. Then up the 5.7 slabs to some trees. Another short pitch brought us to the beginning of the 5.8 climbing. A long pitch brought us toot he huge roof. Up until this point we had been a half pitch off on everything (ie we stopoped int he middle of pitch 2, then the middle of pitch 3), but had found decent stances anyways. The 5.9 traverse pitch was great, I found it easier to go across with my hands but the other 2 walked across it (hard to remove gear). The offwidth was fantastic and the old rusty bolt in the topo is actually 2 shiney bolts. More fun climbing following wide cracks brought us to a semi-hanging belay and then 2 more pitches brough us to a short scramble to the pass.

    Decent: We traversed South past the 2 first gullies to a 3rd (just before the obvious rock face S. of Lexington) which wasn't to bad. We kept heading SW towards NEWS and got on that trail out.


    Sunday Ben and I climbed Serpentine Crack on Liberty Bell. The approach was fairly casual (the exposed 4th class is only a couple of moves to gain the crest). We started a bit too far left and ended up doing 2 pitches to get to the base of the crux crack. Ben styled the crack and I was happy to only hang twice. It was actually mostly hand jams, just steep and a bit awkward getting into the upper flare. We both agreed it was no harder than .11a/b. I took the .10+ pitch which was great although also soft (we thought .10a/b). Some 5.7-y climbing up and right lead us through a tunnel and then a belay past a couple of 5.8 moves let us simul to the summit.

    A great climb that doesn't seem to get much traffic. Great gear the whole way and neither pitch is as bad as the Nelson guide makes it sound.

    We brought a double rack to #4 with 3 #3 cams. We placed the #4 once but there was other gear around it, so probably fine to leave it at home.


    I'll try to post pics later.

  3. went to the base today and the moat at the foot of the face is about 8' back and 20-30' deep. We didn't see a good way to get on it without jumping.

    The lower gully snow has fully separated from the upper gully snow right at the bottom of the face, looks like a massive bergschrund (about 40' tall?). Might need some more snow to melt...

  4. Trip: Shuksan - N Face


    Date: 7/29/2010


    Trip Report:

    BDK and I did the N Face route on Wed July 28.

    We left the car at the White Salmon gate and headed down the gravel road. The bushwacking descent was awesome! Lots of steepness, kind of a chose-your-own-adventure type thing. My only reccomendation is to not cross any streams; stay on the ski area side of things. Crossing the White Salmon river was alright, but heading back uphill was rough. We kept hitting near dead-ends and barely finding a way up through it all, tons of tree pulling. About 4.5 hrs car to camp on the ridge just below the face.

    We got up at 4a and were moving by 4:20. It never really got that cold so the lower face was still quite soft. We moved fairly quickly around the crevasses and gained the finger of snow that leads to the upper face. If it stays this warm, there wont be much left of it. Conditions were fantastic on the upper face. We stayed left of a big rock in the middle of the face then went back to the right to avoid a large berschrundy-type thing, then cut back left near the top. About 3 hrs camp to the top-out.

    Another hour of hiking brought us to the base of the summit. I opted for a nap in the sun while bdk soloed up to tag the summit.

    We decided to take the fischer chimney descent. down hell's highway (great condition), onto the upper curtis, around to winnies slide and down through the chimneys. We had kind of a hard time figuring out where all these parts were in relation to each other before we began, but it all makes sense when you do it.

    The trail down the chimneys was easy to follow, but we were getting pretty worked by then, definitely stoked when we hit lake ann. But then we lost the trail and bushwacked some more for fun and found the trail again in the basin. The final climb out of the basin sucked. Luckily we were able to hitch a ride back to our car. 13 hrs camp to car.

    Pizza at la fiamma in b-ham was awesome.

    i think the hardest parts of this route are the approach and descent, the n face itself felt pretty cruiser and was awesome.


    photos to come.


    Gear Notes:

    only used pickets, consider bringing at least 3 depending on your comfort level


    Approach Notes:

    go down then up, plan on swearing a lot.

  5. I went up to Robinson a few weeks ago. We stated up the ridge too early and hit a fairly imposing wall mid-ridge. After going down to the tarn for lunch and siesta, we decided that going straight up the scree and then the short scramble to the top looked like the best option.

    That meadow sure is steep! My dad went @$$ over teakettle on the way down (didn't get hurt).

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