bonathanjarrett

I soloed the route this morning and found similar conditions as described, except no falling ice in my case. There was a bit of waist-deep wallowing at the beginning and then frustrating breakable crust up top. Otherwise the slot stayed mostly free from the latest dump of snow. I, too, didn't take pictures. So I supposed it never happened. Right?

Trip: Mt Hood - North Face-Right Gulley` Date: 2/16/2015 Trip Report: My partner and I climbed the right gulley yesterday, going car to car. We met and climbed near a some nice boys from B.C. who offered to buy us a couple of beers for our willingness to put in the boot track for them to follow up and down. They had stayed at the stone shelter the night before. We were able to cross the 'schrund at the far left although it looked like there were other options. Conditions were superb. We soloed the first ice step cruised the conditions in the gulley and then pitched out the second step which was in well-protectable WI3 conditions (this was the Canadians behind us) Descent down the Cooper Spur was quick and easy Gear Notes: 2 pickets (used one to belay from the top of the second step) 6 screws (used 4 on the second step) Canadians to chase us up the route! Approach Notes: A lovely and although long approach that was snow free until almost the A-frame cabin.

I was with the party on the Reid and can attest to the fact that they were in the bowl indicated by the red arrow.

Why do people buy an SUV/all wheel drive vehicle instead of a front wheel drive sedan? "Just in case". The same is true for ice tools. "If" there is a short section of alpine ice, they want to be prepared (like a true Boy Scout). The skeptic in me thinks that most do it because it makes them feel more powerful. Instead of using equipment that is best suited for 95% of the climb, they bring something that is suited for the 5% only to have something that is overkill the rest of the time.

What you lament is unfortunately nothing new. Take for example Yellowstone. It was partially because of lobbying by agents from the Northern Pacific Railway that Congress passed the bill establishing the park. The railroad saw it as an destination they could profit from. Although the rail service wouldn't be complete for another decade, eventually everything would come under the monopolistic control of the Yellowstone Park Improvement Company which was closely tied to, you guessed it, the Northern Pacific. It is up to attentive citizens to keep an eye on these things, yet we also need to acknowledge that it is the pure volume of day trippers, those who never leave the paved paths, who subsidize the small fraction of people who use the infrastructure to recreate in those wild places.

I'll bite. These programs are driven by volunteers. Anyone who has ever worked with a volunteer organization knows that being staffed by volunteers is a blessing a a curse: wages are non-existent but you can't quibble about who you "hire". As such, those long-time, active members--the ones that truly give of their time and the resources--start to define the program, for better or worse. While the rest of us are spending the weekend doing our personal trips, they are giving up their precious days to share their love of the sport with those that want to join the climbing community. When a newly minted Mountie or Mazama decides that the program is too rigid or old-school for them to stay with and heads off to pursue their own objectives, they are not doing anything to help redefine and modernize the program. I think it is incorrect to assume that these programs are static and old-fashioned by nature. They simply need individuals to help redefine the mission. An example that comes to mind is the course that John Frieh (perhaps he can chime in) taught to some Mazamas about training for alpine climbing. That one, small course really helped redirect how alpine climbing is seen and approached by a decent number of Mazamas. Most of these clubs have committees that direct the content and direction of various areas of the club mission. Who serves on these committees, their vision, and their initiative are what transform the quality of the program from mediocre to superlative. As well, the courses are taught by members of these committees, and even if one isn't willing to make that long-term commitment, they usually welcome volunteers to assist and thereby offer a broader, more complete picture of what climbing/mountaineering could be. -Jonathan

I have broken the plastic retainer on both the toe and heel portion of Black Diamond Contact strap-on crampons (on separate occasions). To be fair, the crampons were at least 5-6 years old at the time. That said, I still prefer the plastic toe piece to a wire bail, because I have had the wire bail jump off the toe of the boot many times. I feel like the security of the plastic toe piece outweighs potential for failure, and if your crampons are not that old, the risk seems fairly low to me.

We were the other party that the original poster referred to. By the way, many thanks to those guys for helping to navigate out. I always manage to foul up going out Mountaineer Creek and appreciated the assistance in making it less painful. I regards to your question, there was a breakable crust on the way in that was exhausting and aggrevating from Stuart Lake up to near the 'scrund, and we postholed--sometimes up to our thighs--on the descent. (What's up with pictures posting sideways???) The first ice step Approaching the West Ridge Stepping down off the West Ridge notch on to the first pitch of the route

8 years old. Size 44. These are in pretty good condition. The lacing hardware has some rust. Used almost exclusively to climb ice, so the sole is in great shape. The price is firm. They are in Portland, OR, and I would prefer to not ship. If I need to, buyer pays shipping. Email is best at: bonathanjarrett at hotmail dot com See post on mountainproject for pictures.

See post on mountainproject for pics. Email at: bonathanjarrett at hotmail dot com

We did it in a single push from the trailhead near the Cooper Spur Ski Area, starting shortly after 2AM, summiting about 10AM, and then descending down to Timberline for a car shuttle around.

Trip: Mt Hood - Cooper's Face (North Face Aborted Attempt) Date: 1/6/2014 Trip Report: In short, we set out to climb the right gulley on the North Face of Mt Hood. In summation, we did not think that it was "in" without some rock climbing. My camera died the moment I pulled it from the case, but you can take my word for the fact that there was almost no ice on the first or second ice steps. The consolation prize was the plumb line up the face parallel to the gullies. We found variable conditions: dribs and drabs of ice/snice here and there between the rocks, some hard neve, wind slab, as well as some sugar snow. For the sake of ambiguation, I am going to call the line(marked below) Cooper's Face. We merged with the true Cooper Spur route at about 10,500'. Lest anyone think this is a chest beat about a "F.A.", it seems that the line has also been skied. http://skisickness.com/post/vt107-mt.-hood-north-northeast-face Gear Notes: We carried a whole bunch of metal things that we never used. It was easily solo-able, but the exposure was there for sure. Approach Notes: Late night stroll up the Tilly Jane Trail. The Tilly Jane Hut is locked. The Stone Hut on the spur is dug out.

Trip: Hyalite - Various Date: 1/1/2013 Trip Report: Had a great trip to Hyalite over the New Year's Weekend and managed to climb many of the classic moderates. The mixed section at the bottom of Silken Slot was completely iced over, but water was pouring through the tube. The step across to the chockstone was a bit dicey. Squirmy arm barring and thin feet were the order of the day. A solid red link cam protected the move. The second pitch to the tree (the first variation mentioned in Winter Dance) was delaminated and required gentleness. Water was running over the rocks, and the ice was falling apart. The top out for Upper Greensleeves offered some turf sticks=good fun! Mummy Cooler II was a dance worth doing, as always. We found the start to The Matrix to be fat (relative to what Winter Dance seemed to suggest as "normal"). The start to the Hangover was wet, but the finish was plastic! GI's topout offered a hookfest! The Fat One was...well...fat and delicious We took the Elevator all the way to the top floor. ...and even got a gratuitous drop knee. Gear Notes: Nearly everything took 16's anywhere you wanted to place them. Approach Notes: I-90.

Where did you guys base out of?

I have a MH Trango 3.1 that I would be willing to part with for 350. Excellent condition. No rips, tears, etc. If you want pictures, I can send you some. Jonathan

Trip: Illumination Rock - Skylight Date: 11/25/2012 Trip Report: No pictures so it didn't happen--I know--but this is more a conditions and route description note for posterity than anything. We found excellent snow, ice, and neve on Skylight on Sunday. The route went in two pitches. The start can be found at a single bolt at the right end of the wall. Currently you need to make a half dozen mixed moves up and right to the ledge where it is located. From there the route goes essentially straight up to a two pin and one nut belay at about 35m. For the second pitch we made a rising traverse left until you meet the single bolt belay to what I presume is Skylight Direct. From there we continued straight up through two M5ish right facing corner systems. These sections were stellar with ice choked corners, scratchy smearing, gloved fist jams, and super sticks in neve. We belayed from about ten feet below the skylight at a single bolt. Descent via two double rope raps the way we came. Gear Notes: Med rack blue Mastercam to 3 inches. You could do without the 3" piece but it helps protect the final corner/fist jam section. Iron not necessary, but we placed (then cleaned) a single KB on the traverse of the second pitch. Approach Notes: Slog

Looking to spend Friday through Monday climbing in WA Pass. Possible routes include things like Rebel Yell although actual routes are negotiable. Hoping to find someone who can share leads on lines up to 5.10ish. Email is probably best. bonathanjarrett at hotmail dot com Jonathan

Thanks for the solutions; the problem was solved by just drilling the bolt out.

No, but I will consider it. Thanks.

The hex bolt on the masselotte has stripped on one of my Nomics making removal of the weight impossible. Suggestions? Drill it out? Some special bolt remover? Thanks

Juan, In abiding by my light and fast ethic, we didn't eat in order to cut pack weight so deterring bears, rodents, etc was a non-issue.

Trip: - Torment-Forbidden Traverse Date: 7/8/2012 Trip Report: Partner and I banged out the T-F traverse on Monday, after an amazing lightning show over J-Berg for most the night. We found good conditions, minimal route finding issues, and patient parties on the West Ridge that allowed us to nicely play through both going up and going down. There is plenty of beta floating around already, so I will just give you what you came for: pics. Torment From Afar Conditions at the base of the SE Face Climbing above the moat onto the SE Face Traversing 4th Class Traversing Steep Snow Getting back on the rock Traversing the sidewalk (caught the theme yet?) Summit of Forbidden Descending from the West Ridge of Forbidden

The third party was two nice gents from SoCal who were on a climbing road trip in the NW for a couple of weeks. I don't recall their names but were generous enough to share a couple of beers with us afterwards!

Thanks for the rad TR, Steph! I was with the other party of three (the arrow is me). I recognized John's plane when he buzzed by and am stoked to see that he got a shot of us on the NR. You pretty much saved me the job of writing up a TR. Minus the split board, you told our story too but far more aptly than I would have been able to do. Glad to see you are healing up. Jonathan

Sent you a PM