kevbone

Did I miss something……..did someone on this thread mention placing bolts three feet apart? Or are you just making that up?

And I get shit for calling out the ego in climbing. Telling me to grow balls because I think 10 feet is a big fall……..your comment above shows your true ego…..otherwise….if you had no ego about it….why would you care what I thought was big or not?

And you just blow!

Hmmmm lets think about this for a moment…..”A one person standard” is what you wrote. Well, last time I looked I am one person. There for, my standard is my own. No yours or anyone else’s….just my own.

OK I will weigh in……since I started this debacle……I think anything over 10 feet is a big fall…..mostly because I hate falling and am wimp. So using my standard of big…..28 feet would be huge. This of course is my standard…..others may have other opinions.

Way to ruin a thread.....

this question still seems to be unanswered so i'll do my best to clear it up. the anchor that was first led to is NOT the top of the first pitch. it is a retro anchor that was placed so the first half of the pitch could be led at 10c with no severity rating. the original anchor is higher and if you lead the first pitch complete you'll have to climb 5.11a r. disclaimer: i was not there when the fall was taken. Well it’s the first pitch now……so that might be the confusion. Sobo might not have known about this lower anchor, there for the confusion….. Thanks Mark.

Bug your ego is.....

5 stars to you for the attempt. Well done……any thoughts on wanting to go back and get the send?

What is a "standard" climbing rope? 50m 60m 70m ???

I don't need to reread the OP. I have excellent reading comprehension skilz. It does not cover my question. Please see below (with grammatical correction): So my original question remains unanswered. Alex leads the first pitch, then apparently lowers off after setting it up for toproping. His friends TR it, and clean all the gear. At this point, we have the first pitch cleaned of all gear and a TR situation set up. Alex then takes a rack, TRs back up to the first pitch anchor, and then continues to lead, moving into the second pitch. The question remains: Why does he link the two pitches into one? As I stated, it's been over 15 years since I led this climb, and I don't recall the pitch lengths, but is it even possible to link these two into one, and if not, what was he thinking by doing so? Please answer that. Sobo. Sorry you’re not getting it. I believe it is written clear. I will try again. As to the climbers intent….I don’t know. I am not him. But it looked like he was trying to put the rope up on the second anchor. I have no idea if this was premeditated or an after thought after leading the first pitch and lower off. I does look like one rope would get him down…..or maybe he has a 70m rope. Either way it is exactly as I wrote. He top roped up to his anchor and continued passed the anchor and started to place gear…..then the fall.

You mean you miss yourself?

Sobo....reread the original post. I do believe it covers your question.

Im number one....no me....I am number one. Noooo.....meeeee....Im number one....hey over hear.....I said ...over here....I AM NUMBER ONE!

post of the day

Opposed to spray were there are just a couple of jerks? Not that I don’t agree with you…….

Bummer

I guess the disagreement here is the word “huge”. Well, I wrote the intro to this thread and in my humble opinion this climber took huge fall. I have never witnesses anything bigger than that. So to all you out there who try to slam my “opinion” go sit on a pole. Rain…..why can’t you just stand back and be humble. 30 feet to fall is no small chore. I guess LOTS of other climbers have fallen farther more often. But in the end…..why does it matter if you think 30 feet is not huge and I do? Why do you care? Sorry I was being a hypocrite there……I apparently care if you care……well not anymore. Man that was HUGE of me to admit I am a hypocrite or should I say GIGANTIC of me? Your turn …..

I guess spray is the norm in a rock climbing forum…..

What’s the matter Rain…..cat has your tongue?

I expect nothing. Never did. I disagree…..30 foot fall is not moderate. Are you speaking for someone else? If you personally don’t find it significant….why bother posting? Just to slam me? What did I do? All I did was tell you about something I saw. Really? Gear ripping 30 foots are common? Wow. If they were common….I am surprised people keep climbing after there gear fails. You know…..since it’s so common. Good times eh Rain…….

Well said.....

The difference here Rain….is I am not calling Rock n Ice. I was simply telling you what I saw….if you want to play the ego game and discount what I saw then go for it…..it will not change the fact the Alex took a 30 footer, which in my book is a huge fall. I have no idea were you get it in your head that I say I saw a 30 foot fall and that must be the biggest ever……this is not the case. Rain, I get the impression that if you were standing there yesterday watching what I saw….you would stick your nose in the air and tell the climber he is a wimp…..that is what your posts imply. Moderators….this was a fine discussion amongst climbers, until G-spotter and Rain showed up. Please show them the door. This is not spray, nor was I spraying…..simply recalling what I saw.

Would YOU feel better if we didn't call your ridiculous exaggeration what it is? 28 feet isn't even a big fall for sport climbing (I have seen bigger whips off Latest Rage and Darkness at Noon) and for trad climbing, is merely slightly larger than average. Gotta agree with the "G-Spotter". A fall 15 feet above some bolted anchor??? Please. It ain't a noteworthy fall...maybe you don't get out much. It might impress someone who's used to clipping a bolt every five feet. 50 ft+... possibly worthy of comment but for some it's just another day at the office. (Ever zipper a bunch of your pro falling on a scary aid line? You can go a good ways.) If you don’t think 30 foot gear ripping fall is not noteworthy than you have a HUGE ego. Lighten up bro……

Damn…..g-spotter just got bitch slapped.